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  1. #1
    holleynut's Avatar
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    About those 05 RXT's and RXP's exhaust valves

    I read several times on this forum about how weak the exhaust valves are. Well, can't they last just as long as any other ski as long as you don't keep it hammered beyond 5 miles WOT? I also read this on this forum or another about excessive heat buildup. I'm not a racer, mostly cruising with the wife and kids and since she won't go more than 40 mph, we all have to wait. I'll cut a few donuts and jump some small waves but I'm pretty careful about keeping off WOT. Just a few hard launches here and there.

    Oh, by the way, I have both 05 RXT and RXP and both are totally stock. They both have 60 hours on them. I plan on sending the SC's off at 100 hours to get metal washers put in them.


  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    better not wait until 100 hrs on those washer you better change them now!
    they can fail at any given point no matter how many hrs.

  3. #3
    The exhaust valves on the 04-06 RXP/RXT engines have hollow, sodium filled stems just below the head of the valve. The problem is that the material they used for these valves is very brittle, and subject to a problem called corrosion microcracking.

    The exhaust systems on all of these watercraft contain water for cooling, so the stems of the exhaust valves get exposed to 100% humidity while storing. If you fog the engine really good every time you store the ski, then the fogging oil can help protect these stems from corrosion. But not many people take the time to really fog the engine good after riding, and truthfully, the typical way you fog the engine is to inject it into the throttle body and run it, so most of the oil doesnt actually make it to the exhaust as oil (more as smoke at that point). Consequently, the valve stem rusts, sets up microcracking of the stem, the stem cracks some more due to the stress of the valve closing and the head of the valve hitting the seat. Finally the head of the valve pops off and the engine goes catastrophic.

    Basically, your engine is a ticking time bomb, depending how your stored it, not how you ride it. It seems to happen more with engines that are not used very much, stored for longer periods, without proper fogging.

    In late 2006, they switched to solid stem valves made from a tougher, more corrosion resistant alloy.

    It is advisable for anyone with a 2004-2006 RXP/RXT to replace the exhaust valves as a preventative measure, as well as replacing the ceramic supercharger washers with the late steel ones, and replacing the flywheel bolts with the newer stronger ones.

  4. #4
    holleynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    The exhaust valves on the 04-06 RXP/RXT engines have hollow, sodium filled stems just below the head of the valve. The problem is that the material they used for these valves is very brittle, and subject to a problem called corrosion microcracking.

    The exhaust systems on all of these watercraft contain water for cooling, so the stems of the exhaust valves get exposed to 100% humidity while storing. If you fog the engine really good every time you store the ski, then the fogging oil can help protect these stems from corrosion. But not many people take the time to really fog the engine good after riding, and truthfully, the typical way you fog the engine is to inject it into the throttle body and run it, so most of the oil doesnt actually make it to the exhaust as oil (more as smoke at that point). Consequently, the valve stem rusts, sets up microcracking of the stem, the stem cracks some more due to the stress of the valve closing and the head of the valve hitting the seat. Finally the head of the valve pops off and the engine goes catastrophic.

    Basically, your engine is a ticking time bomb, depending how your stored it, not how you ride it. It seems to happen more with engines that are not used very much, stored for longer periods, without proper fogging.

    In late 2006, they switched to solid stem valves made from a tougher, more corrosion resistant alloy.

    It is advisable for anyone with a 2004-2006 RXP/RXT to replace the exhaust valves as a preventative measure, as well as replacing the ceramic supercharger washers with the late steel ones, and replacing the flywheel bolts with the newer stronger ones.

    Damn!.....I've got work to do. This is a very informative reply. Can't thank you enough. All I have been getting from other sights is...."just change them". Yeah, these ski's sits for long periods of time. Guess, I'll dive into each one around spring break

  5. #5
    jetskibum1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    The exhaust valves on the 04-06 RXP/RXT engines have hollow, sodium filled stems just below the head of the valve. The problem is that the material they used for these valves is very brittle, and subject to a problem called corrosion microcracking.

    The exhaust systems on all of these watercraft contain water for cooling, so the stems of the exhaust valves get exposed to 100% humidity while storing. If you fog the engine really good every time you store the ski, then the fogging oil can help protect these stems from corrosion. But not many people take the time to really fog the engine good after riding, and truthfully, the typical way you fog the engine is to inject it into the throttle body and run it, so most of the oil doesnt actually make it to the exhaust as oil (more as smoke at that point). Consequently, the valve stem rusts, sets up microcracking of the stem, the stem cracks some more due to the stress of the valve closing and the head of the valve hitting the seat. Finally the head of the valve pops off and the engine goes catastrophic.

    Basically, your engine is a ticking time bomb, depending how your stored it, not how you ride it. It seems to happen more with engines that are not used very much, stored for longer periods, without proper fogging.

    In late 2006, they switched to solid stem valves made from a tougher, more corrosion resistant alloy.

    It is advisable for anyone with a 2004-2006 RXP/RXT to replace the exhaust valves as a preventative measure, as well as replacing the ceramic supercharger washers with the late steel ones, and replacing the flywheel bolts with the newer stronger ones.
    Well said!! Seadoo have failed to acknowledge this as a true issue down under in NZ and have frowned on us for offering preventative solutions to the owners of these craft. We will offer your description of the issue as evidence in our deffence of our position on the topic.

  6. #6
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    I just replaced the bolts on my flywheel along with the valves, and I did the 08 oiler mod.(I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT!) I have to say that the oiler mod is a MUST! this will ensure proper supercharger bearing lubrication and longevity of the clutch washers. I got tired of seing my s/c washers have lots of wear after just 10 hours when checking my slip, due to the 05 oiling system. The 08 oiling system injects oil directly onto the hollow supercharger shaft and gets the bearings and exits through the s/c washers.
    The previous models only shoot oil onto the gear and washers externally, but as you know on high rpms (42,000 s/c RPM) the oil will just bounce off.
    The banjo bolt already comes included with the oiler jet, no need to pay for an extra bolt. It comes as a kit.

  7. #7
    holleynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultramaxracing05 View Post
    I just replaced the bolts on my flywheel along with the valves, and I did the 08 oiler mod.(I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT!) I have to say that the oiler mod is a MUST! this will ensure proper supercharger bearing lubrication and longevity of the clutch washers. I got tired of seing my s/c washers have lots of wear after just 10 hours when checking my slip, due to the 05 oiling system. The 08 oiling system injects oil directly onto the hollow supercharger shaft and gets the bearings and exits through the s/c washers.
    The previous models only shoot oil onto the gear and washers externally, but as you know on high rpms (42,000 s/c RPM) the oil will just bounce off.
    The banjo bolt already comes included with the oiler jet, no need to pay for an extra bolt. It comes as a kit.

    Thanks Ultra.....the info just keeps pouring in. Now about the cost. What am I looking at? I've built a dozen 350 chevy's and lapped valves 100 times, ported heads, all the drag racing stuff. I can defianately turn a wrench. Are the valves you bought aftermarket or from Seadoo, just a different year model application? Is the 08 SC upgrade seadoo also? Thanks for any info on your sources. This 05 I have in my avatar is from Beaumont 2 months ago. Runs good, no issues, spent 5k, 60 hrs. On the bow at the bottom there is some gelcoat rubbed off from beaching it on course sand. I'll probably address that when the motor is pulled for upgrades.

  8. #8
    holleynut's Avatar
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    One more question

    Hey Sea dood. I copied this from another post

    If they are 04-05's which I think you said they were, Take the valve cover off and look at the numbers on top of the valve. I cannot remember the numbers you should see off the top of my head but someone will chime in I bet. I would go ahead and replace the valves to the newer valves as they are not hollow like the 04-05 valves.


    Do you happen to know what numbers they could be? Thanks



    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    The exhaust valves on the 04-06 RXP/RXT engines have hollow, sodium filled stems just below the head of the valve. The problem is that the material they used for these valves is very brittle, and subject to a problem called corrosion microcracking.

    The exhaust systems on all of these watercraft contain water for cooling, so the stems of the exhaust valves get exposed to 100% humidity while storing. If you fog the engine really good every time you store the ski, then the fogging oil can help protect these stems from corrosion. But not many people take the time to really fog the engine good after riding, and truthfully, the typical way you fog the engine is to inject it into the throttle body and run it, so most of the oil doesnt actually make it to the exhaust as oil (more as smoke at that point). Consequently, the valve stem rusts, sets up microcracking of the stem, the stem cracks some more due to the stress of the valve closing and the head of the valve hitting the seat. Finally the head of the valve pops off and the engine goes catastrophic.

    Basically, your engine is a ticking time bomb, depending how your stored it, not how you ride it. It seems to happen more with engines that are not used very much, stored for longer periods, without proper fogging.

    In late 2006, they switched to solid stem valves made from a tougher, more corrosion resistant alloy.

    It is advisable for anyone with a 2004-2006 RXP/RXT to replace the exhaust valves as a preventative measure, as well as replacing the ceramic supercharger washers with the late steel ones, and replacing the flywheel bolts with the newer stronger ones.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by holleynut View Post
    Thanks Ultra.....the info just keeps pouring in. Now about the cost. What am I looking at? I've built a dozen 350 chevy's and lapped valves 100 times, ported heads, all the drag racing stuff. I can defianately turn a wrench. Are the valves you bought aftermarket or from Seadoo, just a different year model application? Is the 08 SC upgrade seadoo also? Thanks for any info on your sources. This 05 I have in my avatar is from Beaumont 2 months ago. Runs good, no issues, spent 5k, 60 hrs. On the bow at the bottom there is some gelcoat rubbed off from beaching it on course sand. I'll probably address that when the motor is pulled for upgrades.
    I dont remember the full number but the early ones start with 72 and the late ones start with 75. For your ski,they only sell the exhaust valves in a kit, around $350 for the set. Only use genuine OEM valves. Suggest you get the manual and read up as it sounds like you can tackle it yourself. Figure about $1K total for SC rebuild, new exhaust valves, gaskets and bolts. Jerry here can set you up for the whole mess, including rebuilding the SC.

  10. #10
    holleynut's Avatar
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    Thanks, I can handle that price.......epecially for a ski that can run forever if you take care of it. I've read about Jerry rebuilding the SC's, everyone seems happy with results. I'll look him up so I can pm him for an address.

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