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  1. #1

    Quick 'n easy tool for removing driveshaft collar C clip....

    I see a lot of questions about how to remove the C clip under the stainless driveshaft collar to remove the driveshaft. I have never invested in the expensive tool that Sea Doo sells for this purpose, but simply do it with makeshift stuff whenever I need to pull a driveshaft.

    It is a bear to remove collars that have been on there for years without a tool to slide it. Since I needed to pull the driveshaft on my RXP today, I thought I would post how I do it for newbies that have never done it before.

    I make my own tools for the purpose. I have a big box of scrap wood and simply pull out a couple scraps, head to the bandsaw, and am done with the whole process in a couple of minutes, including the time to slide the collar and remove the C clip.

    First warning; never pull the pump before removing the driveshaft collar! This trick will not work if you do, and to be quite honest, nothing will work if you pull the pump, so leave it in place!

    I cut two boards, one pry/lever board, and one lever stop board. I had a bunch of Brazilian Cherry flooring boards left over from a remodeling project that I used for the lever. It is only 3/4" thick but super strong. If you use pine you might have to use a much thicker board as it is not as strong. In the first photo, I cut out the slot 2" wide and about 1 1/2" deep in the cherry board. Then I cut a piece of pine 2X4" about 5" long. In the second photo, see how I wedge the 2X4 against the PTO case, and use the cherry board as a lever to slide back the collar.

    I've used this trick for years on all Sea Doo engines, 2 and 4 stroke....
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  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    I like it.! Very good thinking.
    when its time to replace the carbon ring I usually replace the accordion with it, I just go ahead and cut the old accordion and tap the c ring back.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    It is only 3/4" thick but super strong. If you use pine you might have to use a much thicker board as it is not as strong.
    THANKS FOR THIS THREAD!

    What if basic plywood is used...will is snap during this process? How much prying is applied to the leverage piece of wood?

    And if I need to use a thicker piece for the "leverage bar", does that mean I simply subtract that extra thickness from the length of the 5in wedge block?

    Im not sure from memory, but do i need to remove any exhaust or aftermarket IC piping to get to this driveshaft clip?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by ultramaxracing05 View Post
    I like it.! Very good thinking.
    when its time to replace the carbon ring I usually replace the accordion with it, I just go ahead and cut the old accordion and tap the c ring back.
    How often would you say is normal to have to replace the carbon ring? My '05 RXP has about 150-160hrs on it. In another thread, some are saying my symptoms could be from a worn carbon ring (?).

    Also, by "accordian", do you mean the black boot around the driveshaft in the pic above?

  5. #5
    KC Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    Nice tip !!!!

  6. #6
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
    THANKS FOR THIS THREAD!

    What if basic plywood is used...will is snap during this process?
    Yes

    How much prying is applied to the leverage piece of wood?
    Alot



    Im not sure from memory, but do i need to remove any exhaust or aftermarket IC piping to get to this driveshaft clip?
    You will need to remove the air intake hose that goes to the front of the SCer..that should be about it

    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
    How often would you say is normal to have to replace the carbon ring? My '05 RXP has about 150-160hrs on it. In another thread, some are saying my symptoms could be from a worn carbon ring (?).

    Also, by "accordian", do you mean the black boot around the driveshaft in the pic above?
    I like to replace mine every year..I know thats overkill BUT its a good piece of mind knowing these can and do go bad...Some have never replaced them and others quite regularly...If you dont beat your ski to bad im thinking you could get away with one every 2/3 years...

    And Yes, Accordian means the black boot the carbon seal is in..

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
    And if I need to use a thicker piece for the "leverage bar", does that mean I simply subtract that extra thickness from the length of the 5in wedge block?
    ^One last thought^

    Meanwhile, thanks for the great answers Snoman!

  8. #8
    I have my parts removed to get easy access. I still have to collect and cut the wood.

    Is the only thing Im sliding back the black boot, or is there any mechanical device under/in there that im trying to grab also?
    And once the boot gets smushed back, what am i looking for? Just a C clip sitting there on the driveshaft? Do I just grab and yank it out with pliers while prying the boot back or what?

    Thanks!

  9. #9
    Gone in 3.0 seconds... RXPT400's Avatar
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    That tool will work well when there is not that much rust on the driveshaft. when the driveshaft is rusted you better use a hammer or cutter to get that thing out....

  10. #10
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RXPT400 View Post
    That tool will work well when there is not that much rust on the driveshaft. when the driveshaft is rusted you better use a hammer or cutter to get that thing out....
    That's what this tool is for:

    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=645

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