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  1. #1
    JohnCiccarelli's Avatar
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    Low compression on 99 Ultra 150

    All 3 cylinder are 60-65. Is there any issues with testing compression on these. I have an inexpensive harbor freight compression tester. It has always worked fine. I just bought this Ski and know nothing about its history. If it is really this low will it even run?

    This is my first 1200 Kawasaki and I know that they have the plated cylinders. If I need to rebuild the top end, can the cylinders be honed/bored? I normally use oversized pistons and have the cylinders bored to match.

    Any Ideas? John


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    I don't know if it will run on that or not. I had a 750 that had 100/40, and it wouldn't start. Since they are all about even, I'd try another gauge. Make sure the throttles and chokes are open, and the battery is strong.

    Have you run it in the water? How many hours on it?

    You cannot bore these cylinders, as they are Nikasil plated aluminum. You can have them re-built, or replace them. If you hone them, hone very lightly.

  3. #3
    chewweeee monarchmt's Avatar
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    hate too say it but YOU should have done the compression test BEFORE you bought it

  4. #4
    JohnCiccarelli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monarchmt View Post
    hate too say it but YOU should have done the compression test BEFORE you bought it
    I knew it was broke when I bought it. If I need to rebuild it, that is fine. This is my winter hobby. I buy broken skis and either fix or part out. I just do not have much experience with Kawasaki Skis.

    I am now trying to remove the pump to try to isolate the slow crank problem that may be causing the low compression. I can't seem to get it loose. I guess the ski was in salt water more then I thought. Are there any tricks to salt water corrosion? I have tried heat, PB Blaster, and Beating. Is there anything that may work better?

  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    The pump can be rather difficult to remove the first time. Make sure you remove the two screws that go up from the bottom of the ride plate. Some people have rigged up pullers, etc. Be careful that it doesn't fly off and hit you in the head when it finally comes free! I put some long studs in mine and put a slide hammer on it.

  6. #6
    witness140's Avatar
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    If you really have to yank on it, leave the nuts on - just backed off on the studs. This way when it pops, it stops.

    I had good luck with a salt machine with a rubber mallet. Just tapped it in all 4 directions, back and forth. Pulled, then repeated the tapping. Sat there for quite some time, but ultimately off she came. Grease on reassembly has helped subsequent removals immensely.

    Good luck!

  7. #7
    JohnCiccarelli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by witness140 View Post
    If you really have to yank on it, leave the nuts on - just backed off on the studs. This way when it pops, it stops.

    I had good luck with a salt machine with a rubber mallet. Just tapped it in all 4 directions, back and forth. Pulled, then repeated the tapping. Sat there for quite some time, but ultimately off she came. Grease on reassembly has helped subsequent removals immensely.

    Good luck!
    I have removed the ride plate to get better access. I beat on it more then I should. I was reading on the Ultra150 Forum that this is so common that people are making pullers because they are so hard to remove. Has anyone here used one or have one for rent?

  8. #8
    JohnCiccarelli's Avatar
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    I could not get the pump off, so I unbolted the motor and pulled it back from the pump. The good news I do not need to pull the pump. It seems very smooth. The bad news is there is a slight bind at one point when turning the motor over by hand. I guess it is time to take it apart and find out why.

  9. #9
    JohnCiccarelli's Avatar
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    It turns out that I have 2 problems. The starter was bad causing it not to turn over fast enough. After changing the starter the compression is 90, 120, 120. The second is some scoring to the front Cylinder.

    Does anyone have a used cylinder for sale that is ready to use? With or without matching piston and rings.

    I may also be interested in a starter and a set of stock carbs.

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