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  1. #1

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    JD Innercooler Install

    I just received the JD IC. The workmanship and design are very nice. It came in a box that looked like a medium size coffin. For those that have installed this unit into a FZ hull, does the intake have to be pulled? The instructions indicate such, but, just checking.

    Should I stay with the kit's standard water supply or is there a better scheme.


  2. #2
    gordon lasiter #328's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    I just received the JD IC. The workmanship and design are very nice. It came in a box that looked like a medium size coffin. For those that have installed this unit into a FZ hull, does the intake have to be pulled? The instructions indicate such, but, just checking.

    Should I stay with the kit's standard water supply or is there a better scheme.
    what other mods have you done to your ski?
    oem wheel?
    air intake?
    freeflow?
    i have the jd ic and i had it setup for the inlet in the front and the outlets in the back with a C3 wheel and the R2 reflash.

  3. #3
    hitman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    I just received the JD IC. The workmanship and design are very nice. It came in a box that looked like a medium size coffin. For those that have installed this unit into a FZ hull, does the intake have to be pulled? The instructions indicate such, but, just checking.

    Should I stay with the kit's standard water supply or is there a better scheme.
    You will want a dedicated IC feed line and will need both pissers.

    You do not have to pull the intake. I didn't, but I have a SHO.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon lasiter #328 View Post
    what other mods have you done to your ski?
    oem wheel?
    air intake?
    freeflow?
    i have the jd ic and i had it setup for the inlet in the front and the outlets in the back with a C3 wheel and the R2 reflash.
    All the above, except the E1 wheel.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by hitman View Post
    You will want a dedicated IC feed line and will need both pissers.

    You do not have to pull the intake. I didn't, but I have a SHO.
    Can you direct me to a post with the IC connections you are suggesting or is there a kit available? - thanks

  6. #6
    gordon lasiter #328's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    Can you direct me to a post with the IC connections you are suggesting or is there a kit available? - thanks
    if you are still using the oem cooling, i would recommend the r&d engine/intercooler cooling kit. which will give you everything you will need to setup up a dedicated ic supply line as well as add cooling to the motor and oil cooler. they also have a ic cooling kit. but, i prefer the engine/intercooler kit. if you are running a reflash or a motec/vipec you will need the extra cooling for the motor. you will also want the 2nd thermostat block kit fron r&d as well. these kits are available in the greenhulk store.

  7. #7
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    I am not sure about the R & D engine and cooling kit--and I have had one all summer. It works so well that the engine would never come up to temp and I saw a ton of gas in oil until I shut-off two of the three additional cooling supplies that were the R & D kit (the oil and engine) and REINSTALLED THE THERMOSTAT (this was key for me to get rid of my GIO). The only supply I am still running of this kit is the IC and that could've been accomplished for a lot less money than what I have in the R & D kit and the additional ball valves not to mention the oil I was changing every five hours or so... In hindsight and for the cool water I'm normally in, I think I would go with the Riva cooling kit and if that didn't work I would increase the diameter of some of the stock hoses.

    Not knocking R & D--they are top-shelf in my book. I just think their kit is for very hot conditions. I ran my R2 at 8400 last summer (in Indiana) and it never gave me any over-temp symptoms. I have a Dynotune temp gauge on my water discharge directly after the thermostat housing but it really never fluctuated that much and is not a very good idea for knowing what is going on temp-wise inside the engine.

    Maybe I'll like the kit and use the other two cooling supplies after I install the 2nd cooling block from R & D--which I will be doing.

  8. #8
    maxadrenaline's Avatar
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    I did not have to pull the intake on my install. I did add the dedicated cooling line to the IC and use two pissers for the out.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5001craig View Post
    I am not sure about the R & D engine and cooling kit--and I have had one all summer. It works so well that the engine would never come up to temp and I saw a ton of gas in oil until I shut-off two of the three additional cooling supplies that were the R & D kit (the oil and engine) and REINSTALLED THE THERMOSTAT (this was key for me to get rid of my GIO). The only supply I am still running of this kit is the IC and that could've been accomplished for a lot less money than what I have in the R & D kit and the additional ball valves not to mention the oil I was changing every five hours or so... In hindsight and for the cool water I'm normally in, I think I would go with the Riva cooling kit and if that didn't work I would increase the diameter of some of the stock hoses.

    Not knocking R & D--they are top-shelf in my book. I just think their kit is for very hot conditions. I ran my R2 at 8400 last summer (in Indiana) and it never gave me any over-temp symptoms. I have a Dynotune temp gauge on my water discharge directly after the thermostat housing but it really never fluctuated that much and is not a very good idea for knowing what is going on temp-wise inside the engine.

    Maybe I'll like the kit and use the other two cooling supplies after I install the 2nd cooling block from R & D--which I will be doing.
    Thanks all - I will go with the Riva kit, the GIO scares me, I also ride in cool water. Oil temps have to be kept above 212, otherwise the crankcase will see water issues. Cool air is good, cool oil is bad.

  10. #10
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    Thanks all - I will go with the Riva kit, the GIO scares me, I also ride in cool water. Oil temps have to be kept above 212, otherwise the crankcase will see water issues. Cool air is good, cool oil is bad.
    Same GIO issues for me with the R&D kit. IMO, it's more geared towards the race crowd running lots of timing & boost on boats that spend much of their life at WOT...not necessarily rec friendly. I ended up pulling it all out & switching to the Riva kit. Call Dan or talk to Hitman for the details. I think he has a complete JD cooling kit available for use with his IC.

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