Thread: 1994 SLT , any unusuall issues?
01-06-2011, 07:56 AM #1
1994 SLT 750 , any unusuall issues?
I have a shot at one of these pretty cheap (1994 SLT 750). Are there any issues with the 1994 SLT other than the tripple outlet fuel pump, fuel lines ect ? i have owned a 1995 sl750 and had very good luck with it. Any thing else I should be aware of ?
01-06-2011, 01:59 PM #2
an updated gas tank cap possibly? the updated one is blue anodized aluminum. the plastic ones crack. I had to replace mine on my 95 slt 750.
01-06-2011, 05:38 PM #3
These are really fun for a 3-seater. The V in the hull is deeper than 96+ boats and the lack of sponsons make these skis spin out very easily. I got mine in fall of '09, brought back into shape, and had a blast on it all last summer.
In addition to the fuel pump and tank lid you should also look at the fuel lines inside the tank. When I took mine out they turned into crumbled rubber and a pile of goo in the bottom of the tank.
01-06-2011, 11:06 PM #4
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Cleveland OH
Good ski. Light weight enough to throw around like the 2 seaters.
Difficult to find an aftermarket ride plate for. (Rend is the only plate I could find that fits the 94-95 SLT. But Ph20craft was supposed to have an OP plate for his?)
01-06-2011, 11:53 PM #5
Couple other things you might want to check on it.. We all know these fugis like to burn down. check the wash regularly on it.. Use NGK BPR8ES plugs . I had a cracked piston and the ski was running 6300 rpms! so pull the head every so often to inspect stuff.
and yeah, the tank lines will be junk, find the 2 screens for them also. they are probably bouncing around in there.. when the lines degrade, they leave chunks in the tank. i had to drain mine to get it cleaned up.
if you search on here, you can find the update list for that year,make,model for all the updates.. oh yeah, 1 more thing.. look at the stock cover, if you see any of the bolts holes cracked or missing, take the cover off and look to see if anything of that is sitting on the screen. wonder if the screen is in place? unless you have f'a's.
my neighbores slt's both had blue silicon around the upper air cleaner cover and the stuff fell off onto and into the carbs. some of it was caught by the screen too.. just a thought if its totally stock. check the oil lines for leaking or cracking and the clamps are on and in face connected where they should be up top and at the pump. theres a big line that goes to the oil pump too. check that its on and secure. maybe clean the oil tank for debris.. you dont know for sure whats inside it..
also check the inlet screen inside the jet pump. check to see if you actually do have the screen in place, sometimes they fall out. use silicon to keep it in if need be or jb weld it forever.lol
check the siphon hose screen for oil debriis and that the screen is clear. if using a gas vented type battery, check for the vent line for it and that its routed correctly.
make sure you have a plastic top for the battery box if your Ebox sits on top of the battery or else youll fry stuff.
change the fuel filters and make sure they are orientated in the correct direction as noted on the filter you take off.
Check to see if the 4 engine bolts under the engine is tight. my sl's were all out of the holes!. the cradle was bolted down but the motor was loose and i was riding it like that until i noticed it.
check to make sure your negative cable is clean and secured tight to the cradle. clean bilge pump screen and lube the thru hull bearing, if its a needle type, you can switch to a zerk fitting instead, just make sure you put the cover back over it, that zerk fitting will be spining and could get ya.
Thats about it, now go gas it up and ride it! I love mine...if it doesn't do 48-50 on the mfd and your top rpm isnt 6250-6300,, you have an issue. it should jump out of the water when you hit it,,2 seconds and you should be gone!.
Checking the fuel seperator and cleaning is a good idea. i was cleaning mine one day and found that the cap was cracked letting air in. old plastic can crack real easy after 15 years on earth..
01-07-2011, 07:48 AM #6
Thanks for the replys
I looked at the ski after work in a hard snow. Sure enough the filler neck was busted off in the gas cap, Good call Sniper.
The round MFD was missing completely, that was probably the biggest negative. I havent serched for a round MFD but it may cost as much as the ski.
The original fuel pump is still on it. I havent done a compression check or started it but I suspect something else is going on. The air silencer is off and the fuel pump is hanging on its bracket. It does need a thru hull seal, the guy was kind enough to tell me about that.
it looks like $400-$500 will buy it.
Im up to my butt in projects right now so if I get this it may be a bit before I can get to it.
any more thoughts are welcome.
01-07-2011, 08:53 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
01-07-2011, 09:04 AM #8
Heres some more for ya to read..
The mfd can be had anywhere from 25-400.00 usually around 25-100 if in good shape either on here or ebay. Some can be fixed if you know how if its in good enough condition.. Check that water seperator cap too. the plastic ring on it is thin.. the fuel selector switch is also something to check. the seal goes bad and lets air bubbles in the system.
adding a water inlet shut off valve is a good idea. if you tow your ski or get towed, that will keep water out of the engine. look at the drain hole too.
Check the plastic mount for the drain plug and the plug itself. I bet you wont be able to puill the plug out because it has swelled up over the years. I would replace that too. its a real pita to try to yank it out of there(esspecially where its located inside sideways in the tunnel).
400.00 is a decent price for it sounds like.. I paid 2200 10 years ago for mine.but it came with the trailer, hard cover service manual,2 life jackets, cover and a running ski. Congrats! Its a fun ski..
When ya get it going, try this for fun.... get going about 40-45 and do a 180 and then lean way forward on it to get the ass end up out of the water.. let it slide about 75 feet-100 ft , then lean back and and hit it!..thats a riot... practice at a slower speed first!.. the ski is very stable BUT...if you do catch a edge hard enough...that ski is heavy and will catch and you'll be airborne! lol
If you can inspect the bearings in the pump, do so..and the wall clearence of the impellor with a feeler gauge,,should be under 20 thous,, 6 or less is more like it.. 2 would be great!
look for cavatation burn on the inside of the prop near the hub of the prop. little white lines about 1 inch long, rough feeling..
pull the nose cone and see if theres water in it.. I filled mine with silicon to keep water out, that can crack in the winter time if filled with water.. bad place for water to being hanging out, thats why i filled mine with silicon.. works fine. Do as you wish there..
see what number prop is on it.. a 5131079 is the right one I believe from memory..
I would change all the fuel lines, filters,cap,carb rebuild, check the jets your using, write down on the underside of the hood what they are in magic marker. mains and pilots sizes. inspect the needles for low and high speed circuits. see if they are bent broken, scarred. they should look perfect and seat them LIGHTLY!
Check the turns out on all three carbs on the highs and the lows.. reset to original specs in manual. you need to take off the lil blue caps on the highs to to turn them. turn the brass, not the blue caps on them, they only provide a slight adjustment with the cap on..you need to know exactly where they are at.. I just tossed those caps in the trash myself.
See what condition the vanes on the stator look like. they should be perfect with no chunks or burrs on the leading edge. if you decide to clean it up. dont file the blades to a sharp point, just smooth with no bumps. sharp edges disrupt water flow........
Get rid of the auto cock as per Beerdarts diagram and use his routing diagram in the pictures. If you need help, we will help you thru whatever...just ask. replace the diaphrams in the carbs too. they get holes in them from rocks and sand.. hold them up to a light and if you see light, those are holes.. i would just change them anyways,, there 15 year old rubber in there.. thats no good for wot fun..
When you change the fuel pump. keep the pulse line under 12 inches, and keep the pump low in the hull but higher than the pulse fitting on the lower case of the engine. 3 inches higher is fine..
leave the gas lines long near the fuel pump untill you have everything installed, then cut them to fit. a real pain to move the pump around if theres 1 short line on it while moving it around..been there done that..
You can just mount the fuel pump back where it was before with the cover in place. it wont hurt anything but guys on here say to keep it low in the hull.. really, it doesnt matter, its a sealed system under pressure so it could be upsidedown or sideways and it wouldnt matter.
what matters is keeping it ABOVE the pulse line..the reason? if its lower....crankcase gunk(leftover water,gas mix) in the bottom case could make its way to the diaphram and it will hydrolock that side of the diaphram on ya and starve that cylinder... water cant be compressed,air can..thats how the pulse works on a ski. it creates air pressure and pushes on the diaphram each stroke, if theres fuel there, it cant. the other side of the diaphram has the fuel on it hydraulically pushing it thru thr system.. wow that was a mouthful huh? lol i got to take a breath......lol
If you see bubbles anywhere in the new lines, you have issues with a leak. find it or else youll burn down the ski.. buy a new fuel pump, not a old one used. 35.00....John Zigler on here has them..Or Sharps Marine may have them too.
Ditch the old clamps and go with oiteker clamps, stainless or good tie wraps,, metal is better for lasting the longest, nylon gets brittle in real hot temps like in arizonia.. ask dr honda about that.
Use clear colored fuel line that are coast guard approved or black coast guard approved lines. make sure the new clamp fit perfect and arent too big. that can cause air bubbles,,
you will need 20 ft of line..
check the torque on the base bolts of the jugs and the head bolts for proper torque. you can loose compression from loose bolts and think its something else..
do a compression check on all 3 cylinders cold, wot throttle, 5 seconds cranking, 3 times each , write down tha readings, they should be within 5% of each other, although 10% will still run ok.. gives ya an indication of the condition.. check the piston wash by a flashlight, boroscope or take the head off and take pics for us to check. you should see nicks of clean areas on the edges, like 5 of them. if its all black, its way lean and burndown is close.. guess thas not a problem if your going to rebuild everything.. would be neat to see what it is right now,,,I bet its black as coal.lol
use a gauge that connects to the cylinder by screwing it in and the release valve is near the gauge, thats the best kind to use, you dont loose compression in the line then.
you can then scrub your piston tops clean and start your new wash pattern on them with the new rebuld of the carbs ,lines, ete...
That should keep ya busy for a while.. check back!
01-09-2011, 10:21 AM #9
i have most any part here you would need, "IF" you do decide to get this...
fuel pump upgrade kits
OE mikuni parts for carb reuild, sold as a special kit for polaris fujis
gas caps / filler neck assy's
even good round MFD's
let me know if i can help in any way.
Last edited by john zigler; 01-09-2011 at 10:21 AM. Reason: spelling
01-09-2011, 04:06 PM #10
If it were me I'd try and get for much less than $400. I bought my '94 SLT750 in the fall of '09 for $350. It was missing the front storage compartment, the seat vinyl was trashed, one mirror was bad, MFD was faded a little, and a couple rub rail sections were bad. I fixed all the cosmetic stuff pretty cheap, bought OEM Mikuni kits from Zigler along with a 3-outlet fuel pump. Replaced all the fuel and oil lines and the ski ran great all last year. I had some minor tuning issues (not reaching 6300RPM), but it ran strong, never heard anything funky from the motor, and has 130# on every cylinder. Once I got it running I found it too needed a thru-hull bearing (motor was WAYYYYY out alignment).
All told I put about $250 in parts in the ski to get a solid, reliable ski.
What I'm saying is your ski in question seems to have a lot of unknowns. For that reason you need to buy this as cheap as possible because you could easily drop $400 or more into the ski to bring it up to shape.
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