Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1
    Bow chicka wow wow
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Charlotte,NC
    Posts
    490
    +1
    5

    What is normal amount of drive shaft movement??

    Guys, I need some help, I'm running the scat track driveshaft seal, doing a little winner maintenance and I noticed I can move my drive shaft back and forth about an inch either directions. I replaced rubber bumper stop on shaft last year and I do not remember having much play at all? WTF is this normal?


  2. #2
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    South Chicagoland
    Posts
    14,688
    +1
    846
    Some driveshaft play is normal...measure it to be sure its really an inch...

  3. #3
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    9,202
    +1
    673
    That doesn't sound normal at all.... 1" of drive shaft movement??? I would highly recommend that you ditch that scat seal, before it sinks your ski

  4. #4
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    port st lucie fl
    Posts
    3,471
    if it was supposed to an inch front to rear the carbon seal would never work...in a stock ski..
    so i cant see that being normal...the bumper is only about 3/8..

  5. #5
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    South Chicagoland
    Posts
    14,688
    +1
    846
    I know when i ran the rad 4 seal it moved ....Measure it to see exactly what the play is...When running these type of seals your gonna have more end to end play in your driveshaft than you will with the carbon seal.

    IF it is an inch then i would pull the shaft and see if the rubber bumper on the front of the shaft is still there..IF this indeed has come off or come apart you will have about an inch between that and the room in the prop splines...

    I am with Bryan on getting rid of the Skat seal..These seals for some reason do not like our skis...

  6. #6
    Bow chicka wow wow
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Charlotte,NC
    Posts
    490
    +1
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Snoman View Post
    I know when i ran the rad 4 seal it moved ....Measure it to see exactly what the play is...When running these type of seals your gonna have more end to end play in your driveshaft than you will with the carbon seal.

    IF it is an inch then i would pull the shaft and see if the rubber bumper on the front of the shaft is still there..IF this indeed has come off or come apart you will have about an inch between that and the room in the prop splines...

    I am with Bryan on getting rid of the Skat seal..These seals for some reason do not like our skis...
    Oh I already sank it back in Oct. I've run it a couple of years, but the reason it sank was not a bearing failure, loose clamp on boot around bearing. So I kind of blamed myself for not keeping the Norma clamp tightened. I wonder what the break down on failures of this seal is? What % were bearing failures, boots failures,seal failures, not greasing,etc. I know there have been horror stories on this site for quite some time. And I became one of those stories.

  7. #7
    What Model/Year Ski is this ? (sorry I dont know your equipment type)

    On an RXP there is a "Drive Shaft Plug" (rubber) and a hard plastic "Stop Sleeve" on the PTO end of the Drive Shaft.
    (nothing on the Jet Pump end)

    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....e=13&A=139&B=3

    Item #9 <<< If this cracks up then it will usually also tear up the Rubber Cap and the extra play + the normal
    end-to-end D_Shaft play can add up.

    Item #9 almost always requires the entire PTO/MAG assy. to be removed to replace it since its' o.d. is larger
    than ITEM #10's i.d. and #9 sits behind #10---It's not a nice job.... I had to replace one once for just this exact problem of excessive D_Shaft play.

    The hard plastic "Stop Sleeve Basket" has to sit dead center (use a dab of grease on the end nipple) during re-assembly and guiding the D_Shaft back in or the D_Shaft will snap off one of several "fingers" and you'll have to replace it all over again----

    Hope this isn't your problem---but if it is,, the best of luck and patience to you sir.

  8. #8
    Bow chicka wow wow
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Charlotte,NC
    Posts
    490
    +1
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by David_HX_RXP View Post
    What Model/Year Ski is this ? (sorry I dont know your equipment type)

    On an RXP there is a "Drive Shaft Plug" (rubber) and a hard plastic "Stop Sleeve" on the PTO end of the Drive Shaft.
    (nothing on the Jet Pump end)

    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....e=13&A=139&B=3

    Item #9 <<< If this cracks up then it will usually also tear up the Rubber Cap and the extra play + the normal
    end-to-end D_Shaft play can add up.

    Item #9 almost always requires the entire PTO/MAG assy. to be removed to replace it since its' o.d. is larger
    than ITEM #10's i.d. and #9 sits behind #10---It's not a nice job.... I had to replace one once for just this exact problem of excessive D_Shaft play.

    The hard plastic "Stop Sleeve Basket" has to sit dead center (use a dab of grease on the end nipple) during re-assembly and guiding the D_Shaft back in or the D_Shaft will snap off one of several "fingers" and you'll have to replace it all over again----

    Hope this isn't your problem---but if it is,, the best of luck and patience to you sir.
    That could be it, I didn't even realize that hard stop sleeve basket was there. It is an 06 RXP with 330 hours on it. I just don't remember having that much play back and forth on the driveshaft. After submerging it, might be time for a rebuild anyways.Thanks I'll definitely check that.

  9. #9
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    port st lucie fl
    Posts
    3,471
    330 hrs

  10. #10
    When you get the Stop Sleeve,, buy a couple of 'em, the subsequent Drive Shaft installation almost always snaps off one of the 'fingers' and you'll be doing it over again. The trick is to insert it "DEAD CENTER" up against the Crankshaft in the little centerline divet and keep it there until you re-assemble the rest of the MAG/PTO assy. and can get the Drive Shaft back in there. Also grease up the MAG./PTO Oil Seal (Item # 11) edges (Seal Lips) before inserting the Splined Drive Shaft end of you'll damage the seal edges and have an Oil leak in your Hull.

    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....e=13&A=139&B=3

    I dont know why Rotax eng.'s made that fragile part so easy to damage and so hard to get to to replace. But it happens more than most people realize cause it's so far in there behind the PTO Output Sleeve (Item #10) and out of sight.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. what is the pitch of stock prop
    By blue5speed in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-31-2007, 09:55 PM
  2. What is the draft of new Kawi x250?
    By BlackJack1 in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-26-2007, 10:02 PM
  3. Smoke form Catch Can (What is Normal?)
    By Hecyan in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 01-07-2007, 10:49 PM
  4. What is maximum speed of MSX 140?
    By xsantia in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 11-09-2006, 10:12 AM
  5. Drive Shaft Movement
    By prholley in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-08-2006, 04:39 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •