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  1. #1
    maxadrenaline's Avatar
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    FZ Valve Train Upgrades ? Opinions Needed

    There are a few of us that want to do a valve train upgrade for piece of mind on our FZ's. We are having a discussion on which brand to buy. Pro's and con's etc. So far we are not decided which is the better option. Running 14lbs boost, R3, larger IC. Something to keep from tearing our engines up if they over rev is what we are concerned about.
    Much appreciated input from you guys and gals.
    Chuck


  2. #2
    fx160's Avatar
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    i am interested as well
    i don't need a big increase in seat pressure as i still have the stock boost wheel
    but i would like some beter valve springs, and maybe caps and collets

    kev

  3. #3
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fx160 View Post
    i am interested as well...
    +1.

    Also, from those that have done it, how hard is on a scale of 1-10?

    And is the Riva Valve Train Upgrade Tool Kit a necessity or a nicety???

    Craig

  4. #4
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    From the experience I have upgrading my valvetrain I would urge extreme caution and patience in performing the work.

    Having said that, I dont see any issues with either R&D's or Riva parts (there are some other solutions by other smaller shops as well). However, I would recommend using heavy duty collets in place of the stockers. I would not recommend not (too many nots?) upgrading the springs and only upgrading the retainers, base washer, collets...

    Also, I have heard of the added spring pressure causing issues with the cam surface in a relatively short time. I would invite anyone with technical knowledge of this to comment.

  5. #5
    maxadrenaline's Avatar
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    I can see how too much tension could cause cam wear. I am thinking that if you paid attention to details, good oil for instance, that spring pressure should be progressive and not cause excess wear on the cams. I am shooting out thoughts to see what other tuners are thinking also. Personally, 8400-8500 rpm's is my target. I want more security in case of over rev conditions get crazy. I know we beat up the "over rev" and rev limit scenario already on the forum.
    Thanks for you input.

  6. #6
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxadrenaline View Post
    I can see how too much tension could cause cam wear. I am thinking that if you paid attention to details, good oil for instance, that spring pressure should be progressive and not cause excess wear on the cams. I am shooting out thoughts to see what other tuners are thinking also. Personally, 8400-8500 rpm's is my target. I want more security in case of over rev conditions get crazy. I know we beat up the "over rev" and rev limit scenario already on the forum.
    Thanks for you input.
    Wear was reportedly seen by a competent engine builder using high quality oil and after only a few hours of use.

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    I know by saying this it will annoy the non-ozzies out there but for any Ozzies after a known good solution........ I went with Gary Watsons valve train as a compulsory item for my project build.

    I'll be happy to spin 95's with the motec pulling everything up before it hits 10. I river or drag race so it's there if I go over a wake or whatever to get air.

    Technical specs I have very little knowledge and what I do know about the differences between his kits and others is ye ole secret squirrel.

    But give GW a call if you like.

    http://www.watsonracing.com.au/produ...e%20Components

  8. #8
    maxadrenaline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHOBiz View Post
    Wear was reportedly seen by a competent engine builder using high quality oil and after only a few hours of use.
    Thanks, I sure don't want to wear my cams out.

    Maybe it is my OCD working. What I am thinking about this is I have an engine that is designed for 77xx rpms with a safety factor built in. So, if I constantly run this engine to 85-8600 rpms with an occasional 9k, will the OEM valve springs be up for the task ?
    Wondering if the springs will fatigue quicker or what ? I want to stay away from floating the valves constantly.

  9. #9
    THE PLATE MAN JIM'S PERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    I look at it this way if you want to turn in the 8500 to 8600 rpm range no need to do it,why put the extra pressure on the valve train and cause wear and also slight speed lose. I have been running 8640 rpm's now for over a year and 65 hours with no issue at all.

    Another thing i hear people getting confused with and telling me is I'm afraid turning my valve train up to 8600 rpm so that's why i want the spring upgrade, Just to let people know the valve train is spinning half the rpm of the crank so if you are turning say 8640 rpm the valve train is only spinning at 4320 rpm.

    Now if you want your rpm's higher then 8700 plus then yes i would recommend to do the valve train upgrade, Just my 2 cents. Thank you, Jim

  10. #10
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM'S PERFORMANCE View Post
    I look at it this way if you want to turn in the 8500 to 8600 rpm range no need to do it,why put the extra pressure on the valve train and cause wear and also slight speed lose. I have been running 8640 rpm's now for over a year and 65 hours with no issue at all.

    Another thing i hear people getting confused with and telling me is I'm afraid turning my valve train up to 8600 rpm so that's why i want the spring upgrade, Just to let people know the valve train is spinning half the rpm of the crank so if you are turning say 8640 rpm the valve train is only spinning at 4320 rpm.

    Now if you want your rpm's higher then 8700 plus then yes i would recommend to do the valve train upgrade, Just my 2 cents. Thank you, Jim
    +1 on the RPM, why bother if you just turn 8,500 RPM. It has been known (and posted) when valve train work is needed. Several people have had valves drop, collets fail (valve pulled through the retainer), etc.
    And good point to remember on the valve train spinning at half RPM.

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