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  1. #1
    Itowpolarismatrix's Avatar
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    97 GSX Problems Seizing

    A few years back i bought this GSX. Had about 80 hours on it. After about an hour of running it started to seize or stick. I was in the Colorado River between Havasu and Bullhead city were we were renting a house. Running out of Daylight. It had made the trip down without issue. It was on the way back The pistons started sticking. It was obvious that the ski was bone stock and never been apart. By the time I made it back to Bull head city I was ready for a new top end. My first concern and always has been is what started this to occur. A good friend of mine who works on polaris' said I should replace the fuel lines, and rebuild the carbs. And I did, along with completely rebuilding the top end. I also got rid of the stock water box put on high flow filters and re jetted accordingly. The upshot on this story is Ive now been through four top ends. Ive replaced oil pump. Pulled motor and did leak down test. On the last rebuild of the top end i took ski to the local dealer were he said it just needed to be tank tuned. He melted the top end down worse then I had ever. Tried to say that It was every problem you could imagine to take the stupidity off himself. Amongst what he said was wrong was I assembled it wrong, was suffering from water injection, also piston clearance. I checked all of these things. The pistons and cylinders were badly scored on the opposite side of the intake and exhust. Mag cylinder ten times worse the the pto side. I know im getting cooling to the engine I checked while running on trailer. I buy the water ingestion thing the most however its not water coming from a leak in the block or through the carbs. Is there any other way i could be getting water ingestion into the motor say via exhust. Does anyone have an idea what could be going on


  2. #2
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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    give specifics on how you rebuilt it. did you get it bored and honed? what was the piston clearence? did you pressure test? reuse gaskets or new ones? what is the squish? what brand pistons did you use? how much time did it run before it blew up? did you time it correctly? what mods do have? change out all the grey fuel lines? rebuild/clean the carbs? what jetting are you running?

    post up pics of the sides of the pistons here so we can get a look.

    kinda sounds like a major airleak or your piston clearence is too tight.

  3. #3
    If i knew,...I wouldn't ask sea-one's Avatar
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    Possibilities are enormous even with the experienced tech.BUT you are in the right spot for knocking heads.IMO and taking in concideration from what you have mentioned this is what would do next,not saying its what it is,but just the prosess of elemination:
    Check the crank seals,the oil injection flow-rate mark,and or rejet the carbs up because of thr Ethonal fuels today....
    goodluck

  4. #4
    Itowpolarismatrix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mibunkerking View Post
    give specifics on how you rebuilt it. did you get it bored and honed? what was the piston clearence? did you pressure test? reuse gaskets or new ones? what is the squish? what brand pistons did you use? how much time did it run before it blew up? did you time it correctly? what mods do have? change out all the grey fuel lines? rebuild/clean the carbs? what jetting are you running?

    post up pics of the sides of the pistons here so we can get a look.

    kinda sounds like a major airleak or your piston clearence is too tight.
    I went and pulled the engine and did all three tests two tests on the bottom end and a cooling leek test Its been a while but I believe we had 6000's clearence i know we rulled out piston clearence

  5. #5
    Itowpolarismatrix's Avatar
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    Installed a new oil pump just for good measure also new rotery valve and cover also have new head

  6. #6
    Itowpolarismatrix's Avatar
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    Piston 97 gsx

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  7. #7
    Itowpolarismatrix's Avatar
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    No mods except for High flow air filters no real time between meltdowns new fuel and oil lines we tried one jet fatter on the main and were told that just to get it running that it wasen't that critical. I don't even get this thing off the trailer before it seizes, in the water of course. Luv the ski but i'm really getting frustrated. All new parts and gaskets each time. I believe the pistons have all been wsm i think thats the name. Ya got me on the squish, not sure what that is. Twice the cylinders were bored and honed by Randy at Watcon
    .

  8. #8
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    depending on the flame arrestors that you used you need to re jet after doing so according to the type of F/A's. which means that you were running lean. squish is the clearance between the piston and the head. so get a piece of solder and bend it in an L shape. stick it in the plug hole and over to the edge. your going to want to check it parallel to the wrist pin. then turn the engine over by hand till you can feel the piston compress the solder. pull it out and check the width with a micrometer to determine squish clearance

  9. #9
    If i knew,...I wouldn't ask sea-one's Avatar
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    i'd go with oem pistons but think seadoo only makes 1.0 over oem,I'd rejet even more and change the needle and seat up to the next one larger and check OR change the "pop-off",i'd set it to pop at 18-20psi at 500ft above sea level. I see your in Cali so i know the fuel there has more of the additive crap in it so its going to take more fuel because of it,..... 'My opinion'
    oh the idea of the solder squish test, cool i just learned something

  10. #10
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea-one View Post
    i'd go with oem pistons but think seadoo only makes 1.0 over oem,I'd rejet even more and change the needle and seat up to the next one larger and check OR change the "pop-off",i'd set it to pop at 18-20psi at 500ft above sea level. I see your in Cali so i know the fuel there has more of the additive crap in it so its going to take more fuel because of it,..... 'My opinion'
    oh the idea of the solder squish test, cool i just learned something
    i think OEM is just stock and first over (.25mm). anything else is aftermarket. squish isnt super important on stock motor but good to know. it a major issue on modded motor as i found out. to tight and octane requirments go up or you DETO. loose and you lose power. this can be adjusted by the thickness of the base gasket.

    but man that thing seized hard. looks kinda like a lean seize though. what mixture are you running? jetting? what oil are you using?

    i'm not familar with Watcon. you got the right clearence for WSM pistons. just make sure he is setting the clearence at the skirts of the pistons and not the rings as the pistons taper.

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