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  1. #1
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Driveshaft and related items

    I need the assistance of the experts.

    After a S/Cer failure (inner bearing failed) and replaced under warranty, the engine leaks oil. The engine was removed to replace both oil pumps and to ensure the engine was cleared of bearing and race material.

    I'm convinced the PTO seal is leaking based on posts I've read on this site, and burning up a wear ring/impeller due to engine mis-alignment, I decided to remove the driveshaft. Here are some pics:

    Questions:
    1. The driveshaft and PTO inner sleeve have gouge marks. Does it matter?
    2. The ends of the driveshaft....good condition or not?
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  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    I need the assistance of the experts.

    After a S/Cer failure (inner bearing failed) and replaced under warranty, the engine leaks oil. The engine was removed to replace both oil pumps and to ensure the engine was cleared of bearing and race material.

    I'm convinced the PTO seal is leaking based on posts I've read on this site, and burning up a wear ring/impeller due to engine mis-alignment, I decided to remove the driveshaft. Here are some pics:

    Questions:
    1. The driveshaft and PTO inner sleeve have gouge marks. Does it matter?
    2. The ends of the driveshaft....good condition or not?
    Yes if it`s where the "o" rings sit on the shaft when it`s all back together. The gouges on the shaft could be where the "O" rings sit, which is causing your leak. You could possibly get the shaft repaired at the gouge area, which would cure this problem for you. From the photo`s the sleeve doesn`t appear to be damaged where it matters.

    The shaft looks okay also, doesn`t appear that any of the splines have significant damage to them.

    Looking at your second photo, it looks like the engine is misaligned slightly as the alignment tool is not fitting into the adapter cleanly. Need to remove a shim on the front motor mount to let the engine down on the nose slightly or shim up both of the rear mounts, lifting it at the rear. The front one would probably be the easiest to get too....and it`s just the one you would have to do.

  3. #3
    SPEED COMES 1/10 @ A TIME SpeedFreeks Racing's Avatar
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    bob, it looks to me like the dealer put those marks in your drive shaft when tying to remove your drive shaft. i would like to see the marks welded and then re-machine the surface. also re-place the complete bearing and bellows for sure.... or maybe make the dealer supply you with all new parts for messing up your $hit

    if you need the shaft repaired let me know.

  4. #4
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heckie View Post
    Yes if it`s where the "o" rings sit on the shaft when it`s all back together. The gouges on the shaft could be where the "O" rings sit, which is causing your leak. You could possibly get the shaft repaired at the gouge area, which would cure this problem for you. From the photo`s the sleeve doesn`t appear to be damaged where it matters.

    The shaft looks okay also, doesn`t appear that any of the splines have significant damage to them.

    Looking at your second photo, it looks like the engine is misaligned slightly as the alignment tool is not fitting into the adapter cleanly. Need to remove a shim on the front motor mount to let the engine down on the nose slightly or shim up both of the rear mounts, lifting it at the rear. The front one would probably be the easiest to get too....and it`s just the one you would have to do.
    First, thanks for your response.

    The o-rings of the inner sleeve run exactly where the gouges on the driveshaft are located, and I agree it could part of the problem concerning the oil leakage.

    In regards to the shims, the way my luck has been going I'll need to add shims to the rear mounts because the parts replacer (dealer tech) added to many shims to the front mount.....and none to the rear mounts.

  5. #5
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedFreeks Racing View Post
    bob, it looks to me like the dealer put those marks in your drive shaft when tying to remove your drive shaft. i would like to see the marks welded and then re-machine the surface. also re-place the complete bearing and bellows for sure.... or maybe make the dealer supply you with all new parts for messing up your $hit

    if you need the shaft repaired let me know.
    Erik......you're probably right about the gouges on the drive-shaft occurring during its initial removal, but I'm thinking it may have happened as shown in the photo.....when carelessly placed in the hull bouncing off one or more of a fasteners or other sharp or pointed items. The gouges in the inner sleeve are most likely impact marks made when re-installing the drive-shaft.....the result of a misaligned engine

    I fully expect the dealership to replace what they messed up. That includes the oily mess still in the hull.
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  6. #6
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    BOB, You need to have ANOTHER long conversation with the Service Manager about his tech. You have lots of proof this guy does NOT know what he was doing and made things worse. Make them fix it or take them to small claims court!! BBB claim, etc, etc....

    Totally unacceptable sloppy work!!!!!!!!!!!!


  7. #7
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpt7779 View Post
    BOB, You need to have ANOTHER long conversation with the Service Manager about his tech. You have lots of proof this guy does NOT know what he was doing and made things worse. Make them fix it or take them to small claims court!! BBB claim, etc, etc....

    Totally unacceptable sloppy work!!!!!!!!!!!!

    JT.....I did exactly that this past Wednesday, and I sent him the same pics as those in first post yesterday. Tuesday morning will be interesting. The SM has been very accommodating to date. Speaking of the tech.....somehow the he lost the SD tool bag strapped under the rear seat, then he lost the strap that holds the waterbox. The SM replaced the lost items. I also supplied 3 ss hexhead bolts to replace the stock bolts for the S/C......they never made into the ski!

    I'll call you later.......there's more, but I want to give the SM the opportunity to make things right!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpt7779 View Post
    BOB, You need to have ANOTHER long conversation with the Service Manager about his tech. You have lots of proof this guy does NOT know what he was doing and made things worse. Make them fix it or take them to small claims court!! BBB claim, etc, etc....

    Totally unacceptable sloppy work!!!!!!!!!!!!

    +1....You need to have serious words with this dealership about the damage that their tech has obviously done when working on your ski. What would hack me off even more about this, is that the tech obviously knew the damage he had caused and never let on about it.

    I would definately be looking to have all of these parts replaced and some compensation for the hassle that you have had.

  9. #9
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    i would say the wear on your drive shaft is from the misalignment.the splines are curved so it won bind but it has to move every rotation.

  10. #10
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by breon View Post
    i would say the wear on your drive shaft is from the misalignment.the splines are curved so it won bind but it has to move every rotation.
    Sounds logical to me.....and I now realized what caused the below:

    I almost forgot......the large 0-ring that mates the pump to the pump shoe was crimped, causing major cavitation. Fortunately, I rode the ski for less than 1 hour with a major oil leak & the waterbox bouncing around without the strap. Imagine what could have happened had I put more time on the hour meter & the waterbox becoming unhooked!
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    Last edited by 1tommygunner1927; 01-31-2011 at 06:49 PM.

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