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Thread: SL 750 Question

  1. #1

    SL 750 Question

    I have recently received a 1995 SL 750 that has been sitting for almost 2 years. Where do I start?
    I know I have to get a new battery and drain and replace fuel, looking for ideas from more experienced users.

    Thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rareform View Post
    I have recently received a 1995 SL 750 that has been sitting for almost 2 years. Where do I start?
    I know I have to get a new battery and drain and replace fuel, looking for ideas from more experienced users.

    Thanks
    Welcome to the Hulk

    Where do you start? Right here.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply. I have been looking at all the info you have - VERY informative, thank you. But was wondering what would be recommended as a starting point. I can completely rebuild this ski but what should be done first and tested to see how far I need to go to have a decent ski. I guess I am asking to be spoon fed here, thats all. This ski as I said has been sitting but also always garage kept, very good condition outside. But as we all know that doesn't mean the inside was taken care of and I know this. Thanks for any suggestions.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rareform View Post
    ... I am asking to be spoon fed here...
    Check cylinder compression. All spark plugs out, throttle held wide open, healthy battery. Should be with 5% from highest to lowest.

    Remove, disassemble, clean and rebuild the carbs with genuine Mikuni parts.

    Replace fuel lines, oil lines, and all filters.

    Drain and clean the fuel tank. If there are any fuel lines inside the tank, replace them too.

    Fresh spark plugs of the correct NGK part number.

    If a new battery is needed, buy a factory sealed AGM battery. Much better for PWC use than a regular lead-acid battery, and AGM will last longer.

    Remove the jet pump and check the condition of the bearings behind the impeller and the through-hull seals. Impeller should rotate with zero grinding or noise, and no sloppiness. You can check for water inside by removing the tail cone. Just be sure to point the tail cone down as you wiggle it free, to prevent trapped water from splashing into the inner section.

    And do take the time to read through the accumulated wisdom on my links, and within these forums. The only thing that makes these older PWC reliable (any brand) will be the time and effort you put into making it so.

    The more you check, clean, upgrade and verify, the less likely things will be to fail later on, possibly stranding you on the water (safety issue), or causing expensive damage.

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk rareform.

    K447 has given you a great starting point. I'd like to also add:

    What year 750 do you have?

    Was it running well before it was put away?

    Was it properly prepped for extended storage? (fogging oil)

    You'll want to inspect for rust internally. Maybe remove the reeds once the carbs are off to get a good look at the crank.

    Remove the spark plugs and insert a small (flexible LED works well) flashlight through the plug hole and inspect the cyl walls for any rust.

    With the spark plugs removed, does the engine turn over smoothly? (remove engine coupler cover and spin crank by hand) Feeling/listening for any type of gritty/grinding issues.

    If all checks out well, update the fuel system including a new triple outlet fuel pump ($30ish) to help insure a reliable engine.

  6. #6
    Thank you both for a direct and detailed reply. Will get everything together a begin the checks. I have plenty of time till riding season. BTW it's a 1995 and was running, but probably not set up for storage. But what do you expect for free? Thanks

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    1994 & 1995 was a good 750. (had some upgrades from the 93 model year)

    Problem with storing a ski and not prepping it properly is the steel crank, bearings, cyl walls, and piston rings may rust. if that does happen, you will have engine failure pretty quickly if ran like that.

    Hopefully that's not your case, but I just want you to be on the look out for it.

    These 2 stroke ski engines really need to be in excellent shape. If they run lean on fuel, it doesn't take very long to damage a piston or pistons. Depending how lean, it can literally be as little as a 100 yd run at WOT to ruin a piston, and introduce aluminum flakes to the crank bearings. (very bad)

    That is why we recommend upgrading the aging fuel system right off the bat. It's a small price tp pay as preventative maintainence VS. having a piston failure and STILL having to fix the problem that ruined the piston in the first place.

    We like to look at "piston wash" as an indicator of how well tuned the engine is running. Do a search on here for it, just to get yourself familiarized with what you should be looking for on the piston domes.

    Also a compression test will tell you if something is starting to fail.

  8. #8
    Additionallly .....remove the Autocock and install a Mikuni 3 Outlet fuel pump

  9. #9
    Thanks, will do. Gotta do the basic checks then start the rebuild procedure including the autocock and triple out fuel pump. Thank you all!!

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