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  1. #1
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    Question 2001 Virage TX Thermostat - Which way round? (plus stalling problem)

    Hey guys,
    Does anyone know which way round the thermostat housing goes on a 2001 Virage TX?
    I've only got a 2002 manual which shows that the housing is reversed on the 2002 TX. The engine's been out for a new stator & since it's been really cold, I haven't been bothered to go out & refit it for a while.
    Put the engine in the other week, took it out for a water test & the exhaust manifold had broken so I ended up with a lot of water in the hull. She wouldn't get over 6000 rpm & stalled & then wouldn't start again. After I brought her home, let her dry out for a day or so & charged the battery, she fired right up!
    I've replaced the exhaust manifold & tightened the hoses properly. Then today I checked the thermostat housing after reading the manual - it was the wrong way round (normal orientation). I decided to take her out today for a water test again. She started lovely, ran her on the trailer in the water & NO LEAKS! I decided to take her out to the 'play area' rather than out to sea & she ticked over fine - 5 knots no problem. I then opened her up and she rode better than she's ever done...... for about 5 minutes. Then I hit the stop button by accident & after that she wouldn't start again. I ended up having to swim - towing the ski behind me back to the harbour.
    I know it's asking a lot, but has anyone any idea what might have caused her to not start again after running really well until that point?
    I'm going to do an ohms test on everything & recheck the torques on the manifold & exhaust. I think I might need to take a look down the cylinders to see if any water's got inside.
    This is really frustrating - I can't seem to put my finger on what is causing her to stall after 5 minutes of open throttle. One thing though, today she went up to around 7000 rpm in the water. That's a nice increase. Should she go to 8000 on flat water?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Parts diagrams for all Polaris PWC models and years are available directly from Polaris Industries online==> Click here.

    For a domestic '1200' engine your maximum RPM at WOT should be right around 67000-6900RPM, give or take. The hard rev limiter in the CDI is set for 7200RPM, as I recall.

    You need to figure out what is happening when the engine will not restart. It has never stalled by itself while running - correct?
    Each time you stopped the engine, then it would not restart - correct?

    When it won't restart, does it crank over but not fire? Or does it not crank at all?

    Just to verify, open up the electrical box and trace the Red/Purple wire that comes out of the CDI module. It should connect directly to the Orange wire terminals. Does it?

    Does this 2001 cooling system diagram help you orient the thermostat housing?


  3. #3
    I'm feeling naturally aspirated today pirate33's Avatar
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    The Carb TX has a thermostat? I thought I remember a long time ago on a thread that the manual shows the parts, but the ski does not

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pirate33 View Post
    The Carb TX has a thermostat? I thought I remember a long time ago on a thread that the manual shows the parts, but the ski does not


    Perhaps the thermostat is present in the 'International' versions that were sold in the UK, or in some markets where the water is generally cold

    In any case, I have not heard of a situation where having the thermostat caused engine problems, except when debris flowing through the cooling system manages to clog the thermostat.

    Even without the thermostat you would still have potential issues with the same debris clogging the exhaust water injection orifice or accumulating inside the engine water jackets.

    If sand/weeds/debris in the water is a concern then I think an excellent upgrade is to install an in-line water strainer, regardless of whether the thermostat is present.

  5. #5
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    What are the temps like there right now? They have to be near freezing. If so, the carb jetting is way off on that boat for those temps.

  6. #6
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    Thanks for the diagram Keith, that shows the water connection at the rear of the craft, rather than on the pto side. Would a different orientation of the thermostat make a big difference to the ski?
    When she stalled, I could crank the engine over well, but it wouldn't fire. It's only stalled recently, since the engine out & stator. The last time I went out she stalled, but that was due to a hull full of water - not good! I've cured the water leak problem but am at a loss to know where to start in tracing this fault. The history is as follows:
    Engine started to run on only one cylinder. New stator fitted. Carbs cleaned & new diaphragms fitted. New fuel lines fitted. Engine refitted in hull. Water test - engine bay filled with water due to damaged exhaust manifold & slipped hose clip.
    Manifold replaced (thanks to John Ziggler for that one) hose clip replaced. Exhaust refitted. Thermostat cleaned, tested & refitted. 2nd water test - engine run with ski in water while on trailer - no leaks. Ski taken off trailer, great on tickover (5 knots) into test area. Opened throttle - performed lovely riding smoothly for several minutes until I hit the stop button instead of the bilge (just checking for water ingress at higher revs). Tried to restart - engine cranked but no spark. eventually flattened battery. Had to swim for it and tow ski to shore.
    Yes, it's cold over here at the moment. The temperature is around 3 degrees Celcius - around 37 fahrenheit. How would that affect the carbs?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiversinc View Post
    ... that shows the water connection at the rear of the craft, rather than on the PTO side. Would a different orientation of the thermostat make a big difference to the ski?
    I know Polaris did swap the orientation of the thermostat housing around on some models (1192cc Ficht?), but I don't think it makes huge difference either way. Might have something to do with making the physical hose routing work better

    ... Thermostat cleaned, tested & refitted. 2nd water test - engine run with ski in water while on trailer
    You can apply throttle with the hull strapped to the trailer. Just make sure it is well restrained front and rear. As long as the jet pump intake is well submerged, you can run it as long and hard as needed to do your diagnostics.

    ... Opened throttle - performed lovely riding smoothly for several minutes until I hit the stop button instead of the bilge (just checking for water ingress at higher revs).
    The bilge pump should automatically be running any time the engine is running. If it is not, then either the bilge pump itself has a problem, or the LR module that controls the Orange wire output has a problem. The Orange wire is supposed to have power switched on whenever the engine is running.

    Tried to restart - engine cranked but no spark. eventually flattened battery. Had to swim for it and tow ski to shore.

    Yes, it's cold over here at the moment. The temperature is around 3 degrees Celsius - around 37 Fahrenheit. How would that affect the carbs?
    You may have an issue with the LR-505 Start/Stop module. It controls what happens when you press the combo Start/Stop button.

    See my signature links or the forum Tech/FAQ sections for info on how to bypass the Start/Stop module for testing purposes.

    Related point. All the Bilge button on the handlebar does is apply power directly to the Orange wires. This is the same as what the LR module is supposed to be doing when the engine is running.

    If the LR module is working properly then pressing Bilge while the engine is running should have no effect.

    When the engine is running you should be able to put your hand on the bilge pump and feel the bilge pump hum/vibration, which tells you it is spinning. If you really want to be sure, pour a few inches of water (not ice ) into the bottom of the hull and watch the bilge pump extract it.

    The Rule brand bilge pumps used by Polaris are rated for continuous operation dry or wet, so there is no harm done by having it running all the time.

    Engine temperatures - you should be able to put your hand on any part of the engine, cylinder heads or exhaust pipes without burning yourself. Operating temperature with thermostat is about 143F, which typically means you can hold your hand on the engine for several seconds before it gets too uncomfortable. If water sizzles or bubbles on contact, or you cannot bear to touch it, then it is definitely running too hot.

    Cold air and carburetors. Carburetors deliver fuel in proportion to the air flow volume going into the engine. What carbs don't compensate for is big changes in air density. As the air gets colder it becomes more dense. The result is that there is more air mass inside the combustion chamber, but the carbs have not delivered more fuel to match. This makes the resulting fuel to air mixture leaner, which raises combustion chamber temperatures.

    Generally speaking as the engine runs leaner it puts out more power (which feels great) but it can also mean the piston temperatures get dangerously close to the melting point. If the lean condition is too extreme then you will melt holes through the piston tops, which makes for a bad day on the water.

  8. #8
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    I certainly wouldn't expect a stock jetted carb setup, to fuel the engine correctly, at close to 0*C. The air is much more dense, therefore requiring more fuel...to the tune of 3+ jet sizes. Not only can this cause you to seize the engine, but it will also cause hard starts and poor throttle response. Check out a "Mikuni slide rule" to see how much temps affect jet sizes. Most 2 stroke tuners keep one of these in their tool box. It also helps you compensate for elevation changes.

  9. #9
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    Update

    Update - I've now got a couple of free days to try to find out what's up with the ski. I've taken the plugs out & charged the battery. The engine cranks over great but no spark on any of the 3 cylinders!
    I've tried to bypass the LR-505 module but couldn't even get her to turn over when I did that. I must have missed something somewhere. I disconnected eveything on the LR-505 then connected the black/white wire to black connection. When the rain stops, I'll try again. Unfortunately, I don't have room in my garage to work so I've got to brave the elements outside!
    All the connections in the electrical box look good, I've taken them all apart & re-greased them with dielectric grease. I figure the next step is to do the ohms tests on the new stator and the CDi. Any other suggestions as to what to check?

  10. #10
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    service bulletin by polaris to move the red/purple wire coming out of the cdi itself to the orange spade of the terminal board,try that

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