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  1. #1
    Wrench's Avatar
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    Wrench's 951 XP LTD Build

    Ive been a stand up guy for years, owning a couple very fast PJS powered JS skis (440 and 550). Ive never owned a sit down ski, but ive been rebuilding them for people since i was around 12 years old. A few yami's, couple kawi's, and 1 seadoo xpl. Best part of my job was i got to break them in after i rebuilt them. I just loved how the xpl handled and felt.

    Well anyway a friend of my sister's family had a '99 xpl that they said when they took it to the dealer to have it dewinterized they told them that it had 30psi mag cylinder and 110 pto cylinder. They told me that and right then i knew exactly what happened. Same as the other xpl i rebuilt, one of the check valves in the fuel pump tore and leaned the f/a mixture out.

    I told them what it will cost to rebuild the topend and they told me to go for it. I got the topend off and notice that the front connecting rod had about a 1/2" of up down play in it (the bearings were gone and stuck in the top of the piston and head). When i saw that i told them itll cost probably another grand to rebuild. They told me they didnt want it fixed and told me i could just have it.

    That was when this est. $3000 build began.
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  2. #2
    Wrench's Avatar
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    I have a lot of this build done so im going to get it posted up pretty quick.

    When i got the lower end apart i found that the connecting rod had been scraping the bottom of the crank case because of the excessive up down play. It even cause a few hair line cracks in the outside of the case. So i got the cracks welded and the inside of the crank case welded. I bought a reman counter balancer from SBT along with a complete motor gasket kit and carb rebuild kits. I bought a new Hot Rods crank assembly, timed the crank and cb and sealed the lower end back up with 1211.
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  3. #3
    Wrench's Avatar
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    Next since my head was in pretty bad shape; I decided to have Charlie at Rossier Engineering do their head mod on my head (raises compression 15-20psi). Now since i wanted to replace my reeds, install aftermarket flame arresters and a jet kit; I decided to go with their 951 Stage 1 Kit ($450) It includes their head mod, jet kit, prok filters with outerwears, carbontech reeds, and water injection mod. I went with this kit because its been dyno tuned kit and adds 15hp. The accel. pump is not operational any more.
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    Last edited by Wrench; 02-08-2011 at 11:59 AM.

  4. #4
    Wrench's Avatar
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    I had an accident where i dropped my cylinder on the concrete floor and chipped a corner of one of the sleeves off. So i bought 2 new L.A. sleeves and replaced them myself. I bought R&D reed stuffers, R&D intake manifold (apparently the last one R&D had in inventory), and Rotax Racing reed spacers. Also installed a primer kit and oil block off kit.
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  5. #5
    Huh? Dyoung's Avatar
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    Looks good man...she's gonna have some pop to her when it's done....


    Damon

  6. #6
    Wrench's Avatar
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    Ya i sure hope so.

    Little update, took the block in to get bored today, im still trying to decide if i want to have the mpem reprogrammed and what prop i should go with. Im thinking concord 15/20 but the also make a 16/21 that is made for "limited" motors. Would my motor be considered limited?

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Wrench's Avatar
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    Got the block back from getting the cylinders bored and deck. Got the engine fully assembled. Cant wait to drop it back in my ski next time im home.
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  8. #8
    Wrench's Avatar
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    Got my motor finished and dropped in my ski over the weekend. Have a few little issues to take care of. I have a massive exhaust leak on my exhaust manifold where it bolts up to the pto cylinder. I have some weird battery problem: the only way the ski will crank over off the batter is when my battery charger negative clamp is connected to my battery in the ski and if i remove the clamp once its running the ski will die.

    Any ideas about the battery problem?

    Thanks
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  9. #9

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    I am new to skis, but have read and read about issues. I have experience with old cars and atvs....oh yeah, can't forget lawn equipment

    On the battery issue:
    Is the positive from the charger connected as well? I am assuming not, but have to ask.
    Is the charger plugged into the AC/wall outlet?

    Could be a bad negative battery cable - an intermittent connection to the terminal on the end by the battery.
    The terminals are usually soldered on, but corrosion can still cause bad connections. The corrosion is usually under the heat shrink on the end of the cable that covers the terminal. You can't always see it.

    Could be a bad battery post. When you clamp the charger on it, the post is stressed (not much, but pull/pushed some). That is a stretch, but happens.

    I would put pressure on the cable with my hand, or a friend's hand, and see if the ski will crank.

    If it will crank with pressure on it, use a multi-meter and check the resistance on the negative cable from one end to the other. They usually go from the battery to the negative side of the starter, which is usually a bolt that connects to the chassis of the starter. Using clip leads is the best way, so you can wiggle the cable and see if maybe it has a break in it somewhere - break could be in the cable or a bad connection at the terminals.


    If it doesn't work by putting pressure on the negative terminal on the battery and/or cable, there is a problem with the battery.

  10. #10
    Wrench's Avatar
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    I appreciate the info. I got the battery problem figured out. I am having some trouble get my pipe sealed where the head pipe and tail cone connect. The motor only has about 20 minutes of run time. I backed it into the water and let it run for a while pulled the ski out and took the drain plugs out and a bunch of water came out. When i put the tail cone and head pipe together i didnt have to copper ring lined up so it got pinched and deformed. So i just took it out and put a thick bead of silicone in there so hopefully that will fix this problem so i dont sink it my first time out riding.

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