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Thread: IBR Bucket off

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    IBR Bucket off

    Does anyone know if I remove the IBR Brake Bucket and the two top connectors and leave the rest of the system connected can I ride the ski safely. Clearly I won't have reverse, netural or the braking ability. Seems like the remaining system components would just rotate in their normal positions.


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    The bolts in the photos will not tighten up. They are part of the IBR system. I assume they are supose to tighten up? If so can I assume will have to replace the black molded piece against the hull that the bolts screw into. Need help. Thanks...

  3. #3
    on the inside of the hull you have the molded plastic part which has the brass threaded insert cast into it, sounds like they are spinning in the plastic, if so you have to get a long enough drill bit and drill through the plastic and into the insert and leave the drill bit in there to lock the insert, just did it on an iS, shit job but worked for me

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    Quote Originally Posted by winterstick View Post
    on the inside of the hull you have the molded plastic part which has the brass threaded insert cast into it, sounds like they are spinning in the plastic, if so you have to get a long enough drill bit and drill through the plastic and into the insert and leave the drill bit in there to lock the insert, just did it on an iS, shit job but worked for me
    Thanks.. Might just ask the dealer to change the parts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Glade Rider View Post
    Does anyone know if I remove the IBR Brake Bucket and the two top connectors and leave the rest of the system connected can I ride the ski safely. Clearly I won't have reverse, netural or the braking ability. Seems like the remaining system components would just rotate in their normal positions.
    Yes you could probably ride it safely BUT, I personally would make the dealer fix the damn thing, it under warranty.

    Is it just me or does it seem like the 2010 RXT-X 260 has had a lot of BS production flaws?? Loose steering bolts, DESS post sensitivity, loose pump bolts, spline failures, control button failures, lots of IC/SC hoses popping off, leaking rear hatch panels, iBrake system failures, stripped out bolt inserts....... DANG...... It seems to me that BRP may have had a great idea and product but, rushed getting it to market without full blown shakedown to work out the bugs......... When you pay $12,000 + for something it should be of high quality and perform as promised. Poor engineering and quality control??????

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpt7779 View Post
    Yes you could probably ride it safely BUT, I personally would make the dealer fix the damn thing, it under warranty.

    Is it just me or does it seem like the 2010 RXT-X 260 has had a lot of BS production flaws?? Loose steering bolts, DESS post sensitivity, loose pump bolts, spline failures, control button failures, lots of IC/SC hoses popping off, leaking rear hatch panels, iBrake system failures, stripped out bolt inserts....... DANG...... It seems to me that BRP may have had a great idea and product but, rushed getting it to market without full blown shakedown to work out the bugs......... When you pay $12,000 + for something it should be of high quality and perform as promised. Poor engineering and quality control??????
    Could not have said it better. 12k for a ski and its being repaired every week. Forget that fact that I have no confidence when ocean riding. This is BS. Did you take a look at the photos and the bolt / insert issue I am having. Probably going to have the entire IRB system replaced or at least attempt to. Will post outcome in a few days..

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    LOL I wish we were paying 12-14k for a ski

    Definitely agree with you..

    Back to the OP,

    Get ready for non-critical fault codes....
    I'm not sure if you get a CEL or not, I imagine it would goto history as soon as you stop using the brake lever. It should not go into limp mode, unless BRP designed it for safety to go into limp mode if bucket is damaged.

    Just my 2c.
    You should have no problem otherwise as long as you kept all the other 'non bucket operation' bolts and sleeves in. Don't loose the sleeves.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by winterstick View Post
    on the inside of the hull you have the molded plastic part which has the brass threaded insert cast into it, sounds like they are spinning in the plastic, if so you have to get a long enough drill bit and drill through the plastic and into the insert and leave the drill bit in there to lock the insert, just did it on an iS, shit job but worked for me
    The bolts go into a "fixing Plate" that is a terrible design and can get stripped easy. The correct torque has to bee used for every bolt back there or things start breaking, stripping, falling out. It's way to delicate, imo. Dealer tech probably just wrenched too hard on it. I wouldn't ride the ski unless it's all there, you might do more damage or the ecu will have an aneurism. They should be able to fix it in the same day if they order the parts ahead of time.

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    I know this may sound silly, but are you using the correct length bolts/sleeves? There's a few there and I've mixed them up before and they seemed not to catch the nut...

    Sorry I missed that earlier

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    Thanks for all the replys and good advise. I'm taking it in tomorrow to have the brake re-installed.

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