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  1. #1

    polaris slt 750 bogs down then goes

    Hello everyone, I have a 1994 Polaris slt 750 which has a problem accelerating {sometimes} . I have installed a new fuel pump with the three outlets and it still does it. What is does is after idling ..like in a no wake zone if you get on it quick there is nothing there, it will bog out and stall. But if you accelerate slowly it will go. once you are up to speed it will go 45 and if you slow down and nail it again it runs strong. This only happens after idling for a while,it is as if it isn't getting enough fuel. i was thinking of putting an electric fuel pump on it. Any thoughts?
    Thanks
    John


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk derocherj.

    This has been talked about many times if you do a search on here.

    But what we need to know is:

    Have you done any maintainence to the fuel system?

    That ski is now 17 years old, and needs updating.

    1. Has the autocock been removed? (looks like a small fuel pump plumbed to the fuel pump) http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/pola...wn-basics.html Post #2 shows the autocock that needs to be removed, and the fuel restrictor that needs to be installed in the return fuel line

    2. Fuel selector valve ($15-20 for Sea Doo valve that works) Although this is not likely your problem, it can go bad and restrict your fuel to the carbs, which in turn will cause engine damage.

    3. Fuel hoses replaced, including the hoses inside the fuel tank (if applicable) and the pulse hose. (keeping the pulse hose as short as possible) The original hoses will have the small brass restictor located inside the the return hose going back to the fuel tank. It's installed just after the carbs. It needs to be installed to build up fuel pressure.

    4. Replace fuel filters due to age if you have them. OR upgrade to the newer style water sperator that has a fuel filter integrated into it. And has the convenient ring that floats when water is present.

    5. Replace the single outlet fuel pump with a new triple outlet. A 650 or 750 only need a 35L per HR (round pump around $35) A 780 has a triple outlet H.O. fuel pump from the factory that should be rebuilt VS. replaced. ($20)

    6. Carbs need to be rebuilt with genuine mikuni parts. Carbs just looking clean, or running carb cleaner through them doesn't do a thing. The carbs need to be opened up, internal parts need to be replaced, and there are internal fuel filters that need to be inspected/replaced. The Mikuni Super BN 38mm carb rebuild kits are sold 1 per carb, so you will need 3 total. (cost anywhere from $45-55 each kit). And those do NOT include new 2.0 needles and seats ($15 each). THIS MOST LIKELY IS YOUR BOGGING PROBLEM!!!!!!!

    7. Find your factory carb settings for your model year. We have this info located in the tech section, or in the links provided by K447 at the bottom of his posts. Then set your adj needles (high and low) according to them.

    8. Do a search for piston wash and read up on how to see how well your engine is running just by looking down the spark plug holes and PREVENTING engine damage. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/pola...ston-wash.html

    Here is the link to the mikuni carb manual (post #7) to help explain all the circuits, parts locations, etc... http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/pola...arbureted.html

    Also, have you done a compression test? Poor compression will yield a poor performer, and also reduce fuel pressure if the PTO (back) cyl compression is low.

  3. #3

    yes i have seen most of this information.

    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk derocherj.

    This has been talked about many times if you do a search on here.

    But what we need to know is:

    Have you done any maintainence to the fuel system?

    That ski is now 17 years old, and needs updating.

    1. Has the autocock been removed? (looks like a small fuel pump plumbed to the fuel pump) http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/pola...wn-basics.html Post #2 shows the autocock that needs to be removed, and the fuel restrictor that needs to be installed in the return fuel line

    2. Fuel selector valve ($15-20 for Sea Doo valve that works) Although this is not likely your problem, it can go bad and restrict your fuel to the carbs, which in turn will cause engine damage.

    3. Fuel hoses replaced, including the hoses inside the fuel tank (if applicable) and the pulse hose. (keeping the pulse hose as short as possible) The original hoses will have the small brass restictor located inside the the return hose going back to the fuel tank. It's installed just after the carbs. It needs to be installed to build up fuel pressure.

    4. Replace fuel filters due to age if you have them. OR upgrade to the newer style water sperator that has a fuel filter integrated into it. And has the convenient ring that floats when water is present.

    5. Replace the single outlet fuel pump with a new triple outlet. A 650 or 750 only need a 35L per HR (round pump around $35) A 780 has a triple outlet H.O. fuel pump from the factory that should be rebuilt VS. replaced. ($20)

    6. Carbs need to be rebuilt with genuine mikuni parts. Carbs just looking clean, or running carb cleaner through them doesn't do a thing. The carbs need to be opened up, internal parts need to be replaced, and there are internal fuel filters that need to be inspected/replaced. The Mikuni Super BN 38mm carb rebuild kits are sold 1 per carb, so you will need 3 total. (cost anywhere from $45-55 each kit). And those do NOT include new 2.0 needles and seats ($15 each). THIS MOST LIKELY IS YOUR BOGGING PROBLEM!!!!!!!

    7. Find your factory carb settings for your model year. We have this info located in the tech section, or in the links provided by K447 at the bottom of his posts. Then set your adj needles (high and low) according to them.

    8. Do a search for piston wash and read up on how to see how well your engine is running just by looking down the spark plug holes and PREVENTING engine damage. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/pola...ston-wash.html

    Here is the link to the mikuni carb manual (post #7) to help explain all the circuits, parts locations, etc... http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/pola...arbureted.html

    Also, have you done a compression test? Poor compression will yield a poor performer, and also reduce fuel pressure if the PTO (back) cyl compression is low.

    I have not run across anyone who complained of an intermittent problem. It would seam to me if my compression was low it would happen all the time.
    There are days when this ski works perfectly fine. It may be the vacuum line collapsing or something in the tank. I will check this out. Thanks for the info.

    yes it has a new triple outlet pump on it. any idea of what the fuel pump pressure should be? Thanks

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    If you just bought a Polaris PWC, what should you do first?

    Looking for useful Polaris PWC information? ==> Click here


    Quote Originally Posted by derocherj
    ...thinking of putting an electric fuel pump on it...
    Do NOT install an electric fuel pump.

    Follow up on xlint89's advice.

    Read up about the common issues and maintenance your Fuji engine and fuel system requires. A few hours spent reading and some more hours spent actually doing the work can result in a well running engine that can be reliable.

    And don't forget about the rest of the machine. As mentioned, it is now seventeen years old. Everything should be inspected, checked, updated, and maintained. That includes the jet pump, the drive shaft seals and bearings, the steering and hull fittings, and so on.

  5. #5
    Hi, Have a quick question on the SLT750 ski's.. I have one ive got as a project, its been sat in bits for ages, im doing an engine rebuild and am almost done..
    My question is the carb settings.. they are all at different settings for the high needle, was this because of the original fuel pump?
    Im replacing the fuel pump as recommended with a triple output pump.. Now do the carb settings remain as original or do they have to be set equally as they will now receive an individual feed each... ?

    Cheers,
    Mark.

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    The carb settings have nothing to do with the fuel pump being used.

    Each cyl requires different amounts of fuel because of a number of reasons. Each cyl is treated as there own seperate engine.

    Leave the settings to stock with the triple outlet.

  7. #7
    any idea how to find this upgraded water separator with fuel filter integrated into it?

  8. #8
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    John Zigler, classifieds, Ebay, etc......

  9. #9
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    nevermind....

  10. #10

    1994 750 sl quick throttle makes it die

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    nevermind....
    Hi guys, I did not see a solution to this original problem. I saw suggestions but I'm not sure if he fix the problem, I have the same problem with my 1994 Polaris 750 SL. It rides just fine but when I idle a little bit and want to go real fast right away I'll just die. Once it starts going I can hit the throttle back and forth and it will be just fine but if I let it idle for a little bit and then hit the throttle it just dies. I bought it from the original owner let it sit for about four days. It's completely stock with no motor modifications to the engine I did the carb rebuild and changed out the fuel lines in the gas tank. also adjusted the high and low screws to factory specs that did not help also. Does anyone know what I should do next?

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