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  1. #1

    Electric bilge & jetworks plumbing on a GPR

    I've got a stripped and cleaned 1200r hull. Just had to crawl up inside her to grind off the servo motor bracket and while I was in there I noticed that there's some extra space next to the front thru-hull exhaust ports... was thinking of running the plumbing out there for an electric bilge and the jetworks bypass. I noticed that most of you guys run these out the back under the grab bar. Any issues with running them out the front next to the exhaust ports? I was planning on having the water behind the exhaust and one on each side (bilge, port and jetworks, starboard). Any issues with that or should I put both water on one side and both exhaust on the other?

    Also, the bilge line will have to be reduced from 3/4 to 1/2... should I reduce it closer to the bilge or at the end of the run, closer to the exit port? Or, doesn't it matter?


  2. #2
    steach's Avatar
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    G,
    I have my bilge exit in the pump area with a 45* thru-hull fitting. I chose this for the clean look and to not dump bilge water in the footwells.

    It's safer to exit above the water line. If my bildge line pops off I'll sink fast!!! and the bilge line has to be looped-up to the highest point in the hull to keep from backfilling the hull.

    For the jet works out I used the island "stealth" Y-fitting adding it to the main factory out.
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  3. #3
    That does look nice and clean but I'd feel safer staying above the water line. I'm not talking about coming out above the footwells or under the grab bar. I want to come out next to the front exhaust ports. It's above the water line but still clean and hidden from view.

    I like the y-adapter also but I already have the adapters and hoses to run a jetworks bypass out next to one of the exhaust ports... and it's still going to be hidden under the bumper.
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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Gannz View Post
    That does look nice and clean but I'd feel safer staying above the water line. I'm not talking about coming out above the footwells or under the grab bar. I want to come out next to the front exhaust ports. It's above the water line but still clean and hidden from view.

    I like the y-adapter also but I already have the adapters and hoses to run a jetworks bypass out next to one of the exhaust ports... and it's still going to be hidden under the bumper.
    Yamaha`s oem location for the units with bilge pumps are in the back inside the tunnel as Steach illustrates. Moving up to under the rub rail sounds cool, but remember how much water is pushed/forced against the hull when the ski nose dives or slow maneuvering. I wouldn`t recommend that location for the bilge unless you included a large loop high up in the hull with maybe a check/one way valve to prevent any forced water going back in the hose.

    The rear tunnel is almost under a vacuum when running up on plane. and hardly any pressure or forced water gets pushed back. The OEM hose is mounted high with a 90* fitting before it`s attached to the bilge pump.

    the bilge outlets mounted under the grab bar or on the side in sight alert the rider quickly if there is a problem and the pump starts to pump water out of the hull.

    Steach> looks good bro!

  5. #5
    Thanks, guys. I'll stick with what works and do as you suggested... bilge out the speedo hole and wye for the jetworks.

  6. #6
    agsbill's Avatar
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    It seems to me, the purpose of the bilge is to rid the hull of water that shouldn't be there in the first place....if you can't see the water exiting the bilge...how do you know that you have a LEAK?

    Bill

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by agsbill View Post
    It seems to me, the purpose of the bilge is to rid the hull of water that shouldn't be there in the first place....if you can't see the water exiting the bilge...how do you know that you have a LEAK?

    Bill
    Bill, I think you should give yamaha a call and see what the skinny is!...lol.. also 500gph is no way enough if you have a major leak... I would at least use a 800gph...and even then you should pray...

  8. #8
    1200Jet's Avatar
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    I use a separate through hull fitting next to the oem pisser at the front for the jetworks valve and a flush fitting bilge exit on the LH side above where the footwells raise up at the rear of the ski. I mounted it here so I had a telltail sign if there was water in the hull, there's no chance it will fill the footwells as it hoses out. I also used a float switch to activate it so it's all automatic and won't drain my batt when it's out of the water like the auto units do.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 1200Jet View Post
    I use a separate through hull fitting next to the oem pisser at the front for the jetworks valve and a flush fitting bilge exit on the LH side above where the footwells raise up at the rear of the ski. I mounted it here so I had a telltail sign if there was water in the hull, there's no chance it will fill the footwells as it hoses out. I also used a float switch to activate it so it's all automatic and won't drain my batt when it's out of the water like the auto units do.
    So your jetworks bypass is up front where I wanted to mount it? Do you have any pics? Or, how close is it to the oem pisser? About 2-3" and directly across (same height) from the oem?

    I'm also going with a float switch for the same reasons you stated.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Gannz View Post
    So your jetworks bypass is up front where I wanted to mount it? Do you have any pics? Or, how close is it to the oem pisser? About 2-3" and directly across (same height) from the oem?

    I'm also going with a float switch for the same reasons you stated.
    if the auto pumps are manually wired and left on I can see it cycling and maybe draining the battery. IMHO I would rethink the use of a separate float switch, these are ski`s and bounce around a lot, setting off the bilge pump and killing the float switch early...
    a properly wired bilge with a 3-way switch will serve the purpose. self contained auto pump.

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