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  1. #1

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    Newbie Question: MSX140 Running Problems

    I have a 2004 MSX140 that is currently demonstrating problems running. I took it to a local marine repair shop that has worked on it over the years doing tune ups, but it appears I going down a slippery money slope with them and need some advice. I'm a somewhat handy person and can do basic mechanical work and am not afraid of getting my hands dirty.

    Here is the problem: It will start and run at idle and W.O.T. for approximately 10 minutes, then the motor shuts down.

    The have down a compression test, spark was good but no fuel pressure to the direct injectors. They replaced the Fuel Pump declaring it bad.

    They now say the Ignition Coils & Ignition Coil Bracket need to replaced, but they are not sure. If that doesn't work, then they said it might need the Emm replaced next.

    They told me that I might just want to sell it and wash my hands of the whole thing.

    Anyway, I'm looking for advice how what to do to get this thing backup and running on my own. Thanks for reading.


  2. #2
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!!!
    Keith (K447 on here) will be along soon to get you straight. Hang in there and you'll be able to figure it out without the dealer/shop.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    It currently runs fine in the water at any RPM for about ten minutes, then shuts down. Have I got this correct? Or is this before the shop worked on it?

    What does it do, or not do, now?

    Any warning lamp or message on the display when it shuts down, like Check Engine or HOT?

    After it died, would it restart?
    If it wouldn't restart, does it crank without any signs of ignition, or backfire occasionally, or ??

    Spark was good with no fuel pressure, but after the shop replaced the fuel pump spark was no longer good?

    You need to have a look at this;
    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

    If you currently have no spark or it will not start I would check the DC voltage on the White/Red wires. Should be over 20 volts while cranking. If/when the engine starts, the voltage should jump to near 45 volts and be stable. Do not unplug any injectors for this test. Just find a place to tap into the White/Red wiring.

    If White/Red voltage is good, recheck for spark at each cylinder. If using a spark plug for testing, the metal shell of the plug must be in contact with the engine metal, such as a bare metal cylinder head bolt. Make sure the lanyard is in place, and all EMM connectors are securely latched together. This includes the diagnostic 'loop back' four pin connector near the EMM. And all ignition coil connections are snug and tight, including the ground wire.

    IF you have spark but the engine does not start, then prime the engine with a little fuel (a teaspoon or so) down each of the three throttle body intake. You will have to remove the flame arrestor to do this, so be careful about possible backfiring. Keep your head away from the intakes. Now try to start the engine.

    BTW, where are you located?

  4. #4
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    I think he's in Niceville, FL.

  5. #5

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    make sure the cooling lines going through the computer are clear if not the emm will overheat

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785 lugs View Post
    make sure the cooling lines going through the computer are clear if not the emm will overheat
    Yes, but first I was focusing on what the current state of the problem is.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Yes, but first I was focusing on what the current state of the problem is.
    that is one of the things thats happens to theses ski's thats why i suggest it one it's a verysimple thing to check before you even put it back in the water

    you cannott diagnose the problem if the ski is currently running correct ???
    if it is not running then your test will help but before i put it in the water and have it die out on him again my suggestion is a very easy one to check and could be the only problem he is having thats all i'm saying

  8. #8
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Yup, and yet another good reason for running a water strainer. Keep the $hit out of your thermo, by-pass plunger and EMM.

  9. #9

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    Yes, I do live in Niceville, FL. The information about the engine starting and cutting off after 10 minutes was provided by the shop during a water test after they replaced the spark plugs and fuel pump. Prior to taking it to the shop it would just start and idle for about 3-5 minutes and cut off, or if I tried to open the throttle it would cut off. I thought it was the battery at first but it tested fine. No warning lights would show prior to taking it to the shop. I took it into them last August and they have pretty much been scratching their heads over this for the past 6 months. I plan on picking it up tomorrow and leaving it on the trailer to get the information you requested in the questions you outlined above. Thanks for the link about the Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines and the steps to try. I will repost the results from the questions you outlined. Thanks Again!

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRoser View Post
    ... engine starting and cutting off after 10 minutes was provided by the shop during a water test after they replaced the spark plugs and fuel pump.

    Prior to taking it to the shop it would just start and idle for about 3-5 minutes and cut off, or if I tried to open the throttle it would cut off.

    ... No warning lights would show prior to taking it to the shop...
    Six months!

    OK, lots of things to cover.

    As Lugs suggested, make sure the water cooling loop through the EMM is actually clear and can flow water. The cooling water feeds into the stator cover, then to the EMM, then out the back of the hull. Sometimes the hose end fittings can become clogged, or the hose itself can be squashed flat or have something inside blocking the flow.

    The EMM itself has a water fitting on each side. With the hoses removed you should be able to see clear through from one side to the other.

    The TPS sensor located at the rear end of the throttle body assembly is critical. If it is going bad it can cause all sorts of strange symptoms, including some of the things you describe. If it has not yet been done, I suggest buying a new TPS and installing it. Even if there are problems elsewhere, a bad TPS can make the diagnostics much more difficult. And if your current TPS is still good, you will have a spare TPS on hand, which is not a bad thing.

    On a related note, the seals in the through-hull bearing carrier are only cooled when the hull is actually floating in water. Do not run the engine on land using a garden hose for engine cooling any more than max. two minutes. Otherwise you risk overheating and melting the seal lips. This will allow water into the carrier bearings, and they will rust.

    Further, the through-hull seals and bearings have a limited lifespan. Recommended replacement interval is 100 hours or every few years, especially with salt water use. If you still have the original seals in there you might want to plan on rebuilding the bearing carrier.
    Read about how to use a simple LED tool to read the EMM trouble codes. If there are stored codes it would be helpful to know what they are. You can also clear the stored codes. If they return after the engine is run again, then the problem is still happening.

    Not all problems will generate trouble codes.

    BTW, do you have access to another Polaris fuel injected PWC to swap parts with for tetsing?

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