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  1. #1
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    Red face How to test coil on 1200 Virage TX

    How do I test the coils on my Virage TX? I've read about primary & secondary coils, but I'm confused as to which is which & how to test them.
    I've got no spark, good cranking voltage, good, clean grounds & new stator.
    LR-505 module makes no difference if disconnected so I'm ruling that out.
    I'm fairly convinced that the CDI is fried, but need to check the coils first.
    I've been reading K447's advice about testing each circuit & the ohms readings check out for the stator, earths etc.
    I know I can't test the CDI, but when it comes to the coil, I'm a bit lost.
    It's the primary & secondary bits that confuse me!
    I'm using a Fluke scope meter to test with which has been calibrated recently, so I'm fairly confident in the readings.
    If the coil IS faulty, I'd rather buy a replacement rather than a CDI!!
    The coil is part number 4010342 and the CDI is 4010379 with 4010543 - 82 written on the rear side.
    One other point is that the CDI is RED potted. I've read that these are problematic. although I can't find the post now. Does this lead to more of a conclusion that it's likely the CDI that's at fault?
    Any help (in plain english please) would be gratefully recieved.
    How about PWC electrics for dummies as a book title?


  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    The primary side of the coil creates a large voltage in the secondary side of the coil-that makes the spark to the plugs.

    The primary will be the small wires from the CDI, the secondary side uses the spark plug cables.AKA-plug wires

    Have you tried to push the bilge button while cranking to see if it starts ?

  3. #3
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    Thanks for the quick reply. That makes more sense to me. I've tried pushing the bilge button, it makes no difference - still no spark.
    Thanks for the plain english explanation - I feel really stupid!

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    ... push the bilge button while cranking to see if it starts ?
    +1

    If you have bypassed the LR module, then you need to press Bilge button to supply power to the CDI. And the bilge pump should actually run, of course.

    Battery must be healthy or you won't have spark. Look for more than 10.6 volts while cranking.

  5. #5
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    +1

    If you have bypassed the LR module, then you need to press Bilge button to supply power to the CDI. And the bilge pump should actually run, of course.

    Battery must be healthy or you won't have spark. Look for more than 10.6 volts while cranking.
    That would explain a lot. I'll remember to push the bilge button while the LR-505 is bypassed & try that. Battery voltage is within guidelines - over 10.6 volts while cranking.
    Thought it best to get advice before swapping out components that might not be faulty.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    The primary side of the coil creates a large voltage in the secondary side of the coil-that makes the spark to the plugs.

    The primary will be the small wires from the CDI, the secondary side uses the spark plug cables.AKA-plug wires...
    The primary and secondary 'sides' of each ignition coil share a common ground connection.

    There are three 'coils' (a 'coil' means a primary and secondary wound together as a unit) packaged into the coil pack, and they each have individual primary and secondary wire connections, except for the common ground (Black/White wire).

    Connect one probe from your ohm-meter to the Black/White wire, and leave it there.

    Now probe each primary wire (Black/Blue, Black/Green, and Yellow/Brown). Each should read similar ohms, and should be around 0.35 ohms. This is a really low ohms measurement, so most ohm-meters will read something between 0.0 and 1.0 ohms. If all three coils read similar, that usually means the coil primaries are OK.

    You can find the details for testing the coils secondaries here.

  7. #7
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    That's an excellent post. Now I know the difference betwen the primary & secondary coils, that post makes a lot of sense.
    Thank for that. I'll be trying those tests when I get back from work tonight.

  8. #8
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    Well, it's taken a while, but I finally bit the bullet and bought a new CDI from Yancy Powersports. (Thanks guys)
    I made up new ignition leads with copper cored HT lead, soldered the ends, then this afternoon I thought I'd have a go at putting the electric box back together.
    A packet of cable ties & some removed flesh later, I got the whole thing back together tidily and installed.
    I was a bit nervous, but plugged the lanyard in, hit the throttle and..... RESULT..... She started straight up! A bit of smoke (hey, it's a 2 stroke) but a good clean run.
    All I need to do now is get her in the water and make sure that she doesn't cut out again when she gets warm!!
    I read a post on PWC forums a while ago about the old red potted CDI's. Something like 'if your CDI is red potted, change it as it will fail on you soon'. How right they were!!
    Thanks to you all for your help on this, especially K447. Your help and patience kept me going, & now the ski is going again. Thank you.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiversinc View Post
    ... bought a new CDI from Yancy Powersports.

    ... I made up new ignition leads with copper cored HT lead, soldered the ends

    ... plugged the lanyard in, hit the throttle and..... RESULT..... She started straight up!

    ... 'if your CDI is red potted, change it as it will fail on you soon'. How right they were!!

    ... now the ski is going again. Thank you.


    Just for thoroughness, ohm check the secondary wires from spark plug cap back to engine ground. Make sure it is within spec.

  10. #10
    skiversinc's Avatar
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    I'll do that tomorrow when I get back from work. Marine engineer (Yamaha-ha-ha dealer) suggested the copper leads over the carbon leads. Obviously, with the low temperatures over here, the carbon leads are more susceptible to breaking with change in temperature. The copper core cables are a bit more forgiving! I'll definately check the impedance on the cable though. Don't want to have to replace another CDI, stator etc.
    Thanks Keith.

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