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  1. #1
    Pauly C. Small Paul's Avatar
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    Pauly C's 07 RXP Bumble Bee

    I figured since everyone else was doing a build thread, I may as well get in on the action.

    I started with a 2007 Seadoo RXP.

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    I bought it in May 2010 with a S3 charger, 42lb injectors, XSIC W/bleed mod, free flow exhaust, all black hydroturf seat, ODi grips, 15/20r no nose cone, riva grate & wedge, Riva pro block-offs, flowrite vents, holes filled, bucket trimmed, trued rideplate and intake grate. Over the summer, I swapped out the S3 for a X-charger, added the DIY RRFPR, gutted and shortened the waterbox, and added a riva rear air to it (also drilled a shit-ton of holes in the rear grab handle). By the end of summer, I was running a solid 77.7 all day long.

    Of course winter hit. Since I live up north, I had plenty of time to upgrade and tune. After a lot of research, and endless talks with JimmyRXP, I decided my first step was going to be a Rude 2, 50# Bosch injectors, and a Rude Controller. I have thought long and hard about going with an open loop and Riva plate. Iím transferring to VA this week for work. My main concern is my new riding conditions will be salt water. I know a lot of you run in salt water. Iím aware of the additional maintenance required, but I think as of now, Iím going to stick with the closed loop. I would like to hear some opinions on the situation, more so, overall performance gains.

    Last weekend, Jimmyrxp and I got together in his pimp ass heated garage to do some work. We banged out the 08 SC oiler mod to provide a little better cooling for the bigger charger. This was a pretty straight forward mod, didnít take long. Couple lessons learned: When taking the PTO cover off, leave the top bolt in the port (left) engine mount. Then simply rock the motor to the Starboard (right) side. The bottom of the mount bracket will sit on the face of the engine mount and will help you reach under the motor to clean up some of the oil/coolant that has inevitably spilled once you took the PTO cover off. Second, recruit a friend/wife/circus monkey to assist in the tapping the holes in the PTO cover. Use this second person to hold a shop vac at the tap site to control the chips. As Jimmyrxp will attest, this REALLY speeds up the process.
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    I also installed my Rude Fuel Controller. I purchased this from a forum member here without the cable or software. I did get the software HERE and built my own cable from HERE. Contrary to popular belief, you cannot go to your local store and buy a GM 3 pin weather-pack connector. I tried. Several places. I picked one up on eBay for $5 shipped. It came with the male, female, pins and grommets. I soldered all the wires to the pins and then crimped the ends. It came out pretty nice, Iím happy. I know a lot of people go buy the $40 cable from Radio Shack, but I was able to get one off eBay for $2. Itís fairly short (I have a long serial cable) and does not have the big black box attached to it. I also didnít have to download any software to run it.

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    Our next step was to bend the prop a little bitÖ well a lotta bit. Starting with an ďuntouchedĒ 15/20r, all the blades were not consistent. I have a couple theories here. First, Iím guessing there is a ďtoleranceĒ that solas uses. While all the blades were ďcloseĒ they werenít all perfect. Perhaps the blades were within tolerances. My second theory is that over time of use, swapping wear rings and running thru the bayou in Louisiana, the blades have become slightly bent. Perhaps itís a combination of the two. Regardless, it was time to change a few things. All the numbers were within 1.5MM of each other. We used 3 measurements: trailing edge, one inch from the end of the trailing edge, and the very front tip of the blade. We basically went through the prop and added 4MM to the rear, and 1MM to the front, ensuring all 3 measurements were the same. Upon completion of the bending fun, we put the prop back in. My wear ring is pretty tight. I havenít upgraded to a stainless liner yet (future mod), so I was dealing with the plastic one. To ease the prop back home, we decided to use some lubrication to assist in the process, and prevent us form having to rebend. This was accomplished by using a little fabric softener. Not only did it lubricate nicely, but it also smelled pretty good. Slapped the pump back in and ready to go.

    Now, the last thing I have to do is build my charger. As of the current moment, my wheel and front housing is in transit. Iím hoping to get it tomorrow since Iím moving to VA on Friday. If all goes well, Iíll be on the water Saturday for some testing. Iím not 100% sure that my prop will be accurate, but I think itíll be pretty close, and a good starting point. For those of you wondering, here is a 2Rude wheel on the left. On the right is a rear housing that was machined to take a 2Rude wheel, with the stock wheel (215) in it. In the first pic, you can see how much bigger the intake is on the 2Rude wheel.

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    As some preventive maintenance practices, I changed the fuel filter. It was looking pretty nasty when I did the DIY RRFPR this summer, but it was summer, and I would have rather been riding than changing fuel filters. I also changed the oil and filter since that was part of the PTO mod.

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    Iíll update as I make progress. Just figured this would be a fun thread to start and maintain. I welcome all feedback and advice!

    Pauly C.


  2. #2
    Pauly C. Small Paul's Avatar
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    The second 2Rude pic didn't load for some reason, so here it is. This shows the size difference with the covers on.

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  3. #3
    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    Good work. You going to make it to MB this year?

  4. #4
    formerly Gold06RXP Turbo Nick's Avatar
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    Looking good Pauley!! If you want to do a ride plate send yours to speedfreeks (Erik). His ride plate is just as good or better than Rivas and you get to keep your stock cooling system. I will sware up and down by his plate. Its the best!!! FYI Hope to see you in a few months!!

  5. #5
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    fyi you can get your weatherpack connectors at speed shops..from 1 pin to 6 pin..they use then for nos ect.

  6. #6
    Huh? Dyoung's Avatar
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    looking good Pauly.......good job!

  7. #7

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    WOW-- 4 mm added to a 15/20 trailing edge AND 1 mm to the leading edge. So how many rpm did you turn that MONSTER? Any speed #'s at that rpm and any tuned #'s yet?

  8. #8
    Pauly C. Small Paul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim View Post
    WOW-- 4 mm added to a 15/20 trailing edge AND 1 mm to the leading edge. So how many rpm did you turn that MONSTER? Any speed #'s at that rpm and any tuned #'s yet?

    Well, I don't know yet. I went to ride today, but was unsuccessful at my attempt. I'm having a connectivity issue between my laptop and my rude controller right now. Once I get that battle handled (hopefully tonight), I'll update! It's 65 and sunny here in Norfolk, so my plan is to get on the water in the morning.

    Pauly C.

  9. #9

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    updates?

  10. #10
    Pauly C. Small Paul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim View Post
    updates?
    Sorry, I know it's been a while. I'm super slammed with this school I'm in right now. It's kicking my ass.

    I did get out on the water (not last weekend, but 2 weekends ago). Ski ran great. I used sno's fuel map (the one for the 2rude/50s) and it seemed pretty spot on. I have very minimal tuning to do to it. I got one WOT pass in, but as soon as I got up to revs, the oil light came on. When JimmyRXP and I did the oil upgrade, I used a standard worm gear clamp on the PTO bearing. It slipped off, causing an oil leak in the hull. So, went to the dealer today and bought the OEM clamp. So, I'll be back together soon.

    I was able to turn that prop. I was at 8060 and rising when the oil light went off, and I shut her down (learned that lesson the hard way last time).

    I'm excited to get back on the water, but looks like rain all weekend. Bummer...

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