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Thread: A new MESS!

  1. #1

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    A new MESS!

    Hi all,
    Last weekend a woman down the street was moving and had an old ski laying in the yard. I, in my infinite wisdom and love for a challenge, offered her 150.00 for it.

    So I'm now the proud owner of a 95 Polaris 650. I knew it'd have some issues as it'd been sitting there for the last 2 years, that I know of, doing nothing but I'm fearless and figure I can fix anything and back in the mid 90's a buddy of mine had 2 ski's.. a ZXI 750 and one of those X2's I think it was... I worked on them and in return I got use of them any time I so pleased.

    I remember doing some tuning on the old X2 that had a mikuni SBN 44 (I think)... Tied an old anchor rope to the back of the ski and then the other end to the ball hitch of the van on the beach and just ran the crap out of it while tuning until it was time to tune in the top end.. then just took her out and ran the balls off it and shut her down in the middle of the bay and pulled plugs to read for top end burn..

    That being said... The Polaris I bought sunk in a lake from what she said.. I'm assuming the shaft seal probably leaks and it filled up and sunk.

    They did pull it out and pull the plugs and blow it out and flooded it with oil.
    So I'm going to just basically pull out everything and re-install it and inspect along the way. Knowing this chic this thing was ridden hard and hung up wet many times with nothing done to it but gas and oil.

    I've read all kinds articles on here about this ski so I'll be digging into it this weekend and see what all I can find.

    One question I have is on the carb assembly. Now I've worked on many different kinds of carbs on bikes and such and know that when you have more than one carb on a rail you usually need to sync them with carb sticks. When I go and bust these SBN's apart and put them back..are there adjustments on butterflies to adjust each one to sync them or is there just a factory rail or something they all bolt on?

    Also are there any "Gotcha's" I need to watch out for or just tear into this thing and get it all apart then inspect each part and reassemble.. ie. mark anything or measure anything from stock.. kinda like.. counting the original positions of the carb jet screws.. you know that kind of thing.

    In closing I'd like to say THANK YOU for all the work you folks have done to put this site together and I look forward to learning more about my ski as I go along and help anyone I can with any knowledge that I can offer.

    I'm an electronic engineer, and been a gear head since I was teethed on a motorcycle tire by my hillbillie dad.

    Thanx again everyone,
    Aqua


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk..

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    We love project threads, and photos, so feel free to populate your thread with lots of details

    Unless it was recovered promptly and resuscitated properly you should assume the crank bearings in that engine have rusted since the hull was sunk. You will have to at least pull the intake manifold and reeds out for a look-see into the crank case. Same for the flywheel, Bendix, magneto stator and starter motor.

    If you want to end up with a reliable engine, consider rebuilding it yourself or installing a rebuilt engine. Don't even try to run it unless you know the crank bearings are good. At over 6000 RPM, even a little surface rust on the bearings will grenade the engine in short order.

    You will need to pull apart, inspect, lubricate, and generally go over everything on that machine. From the jet pump to the gas filler neck, it all needs attention.

    Have a look here for a starting point.


  4. #4

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    Yes Sir... I will probably just replace the bearings as I see there are some part numbers posted for some generic bearings.

    These cranks are pressed such that I'd need to take this to a shop and have these bearings installed.. correct? If so.. any good shops around with an approx price on installing them?

    Thanx,
    Aqua

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aquahallic View Post
    ... These cranks are pressed such that I'd need to take this to a shop and have these bearings installed.. correct?

    If so.. any good shops around with an approx price on installing them?...
    Yes, the cranks are pressed together.

    If the pistons or cylinders are also in need of replacement, then it may be more cost effective to just rebuild the entire engine, or swap your engine as a core on a rebuild.

    Other members on here may have a Florida engine or PWC shop that they would recommend.

    Best approach might be to first pull your current engine out of the hull and take it apart. You will get to see how it is put together, and what the condition of the various parts are. And clean up go over the rest of the PWC while the engine is out.

    Then you can decide what route makes sense for you. Rebuild the engine with just a new crank, rebuild with top end refresh, or entire engine rebuild from a rebuilder.

    Worst case is you part out the entire PWC and use the money towards another machine.

  6. #6
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Aquahallic;1646532]Hi all,
    Last weekend a woman down the street was moving and had an old ski laying in the yard. I, in my infinite wisdom and love for a challenge, offered her 150.00 for it. Buying a complete hull basically.. unless it runs. a good deal I think.if your into rebuilding it for experience,fun,and a feeling of accomplishment. otherwise just buy a running one. big difference..

    So I'm now the proud owner of a 95 Polaris 650. Sweet, congrats! welcome to the polaris underworld.. a few guys on here like jkindt has a bad azz 650 he is building as a sleeper. should be pretty cool when done. go check it out in the projects section.


    That being said... The Polaris I bought sunk in a lake from what she said.. "oh noooooooooooo!"


    One question I have is on the carb assembly. Now I've worked on many different kinds of carbs on bikes and such and know that when you have more than one carb on a rail you usually need to sync them with carb sticks. When I go and bust these SBN's apart and put them back..are there adjustments on butterflies to adjust each one to sync them or is there just a factory rail or something they all bolt on?


    they are basically 3 individual carbs that are held together when mounted to the intake with a L-shaped piece of metal that turns against a non-moving part on the carb rail(s) that are now in line with each other. you have to pull open the carb throttle a little to get them together.. youll figure it out, its not that hard..

    when you take them off the intake, dissconnect the oil lines undeneath it first, and the oil rod from the oil pump,. they have nylon clips that push off to 1 side to release the rod, dont go crazy on the clip or it will snap the clip right off. it's old nylon, so be careful. then gently lift so the gaskets come off with it nicelly and doesn't tear them up.. ehh, probably go with new ones anyways..lol


    Also are there any "Gotcha's" I need to watch out for or just tear into this thing and get it all apart then inspect each part and reassemble.. ie. mark anything or measure anything from stock.. kinda like.. counting the original positions of the carb jet screws.. you know that kind of thing.

    Yes, in the manual, it will tell you exactly which screw gets turned how much.. dont mix them up. some carbs have different jets in the same holes. its for best performance. and the turns on the mixture screw can be re adjusted no problem. after your rebuild, it should go back to stock unless you bored it out,changed to updated reed system, exhaust change from stock, adding a water box,or bigger carbs,compression, porting, and a few others im probably missing..lol but if you keep it stock, the normal settings will be fine. youll need to check your piston wash as you go and see how things go at first until your dialed in..

    always use oem rebuild kits for the carbs , they fit perfect and last.

    leave the adjustment screws in the same carbs too. you have a high and low on each carb. its like tuning 3 individual engines with 1 common crankshaft basically. you fine tune with rpms and piston wash.

    You might want to go thru n read up on your model in particular with pictures and really know what your looking at,then attack it..

    These are some ideas to think about as a new owner of a used ski.. assume everything is bad.lol then go from there.. since it has been sunk already presumedly,, that could mean that the CDI box wires might have rust inside it, the stator in the front of the engine could be rusted up,the starter could be frozen or rusty inside,you just dont know until you tear into those things n look. some models of polaris's have a electric trim motor and that is also suspectible to freezing up.

    Now the crank bearings.,. oh boy,,, time for a new crank if its rusty.. used about 250.00 just depends on exactly what your doing to it..then theres shipping cost, its fairly heavy.. yes you need a qualified guy to do this work.. or ebay possibly.. but thats a scary thought.lol

    I would take the motor out and completly disassemble it(wait on pulling pistons, just the front covers and the bottom case to look. and check the bearings on the crank first, then go from there and decide what to do next..

    If you go rebuilding it, that can be fun getting all the new parts in the mail like presents! lol haahhaaa.ask jkindt!... piece by piece and you see it brandy new as you go. thats a nice!

    Ok next issues.. polaris put out updates for pretty much every ski. I'm sure yours has a couple.. you would have to read up on your model for exact info. good to check out anyway as an owner.

    Next is maintaining your ski. Since you bought a 16 yr old ski, it needs attention big time before you run it.. change all the fuel lines, the pickups in the tank if so equipped, they all rot out after all those years sitting. then possibly a float in the fuel sender( just depends on what you have), it absorbs moisture and doesnt float as it use too. changing fuel filters, oil filters,considering going pre-mix istead of oil injection, carb rebuilding is a must do, checking bearings in the stator, the condition of the impellor, know which impellor you actually have,condition of the vanes in the stator pump, driveshaft spline check,hull bearing worn?,coupler tight?

    you fuel system may have a little brass restrictor in one of the fuel lines. so dont throw anything away. it would have a black tie-wrap wrapped around it if never touched, if your machine has one. I'm not sure on that. The 750's do.. I had one. it was at the end of the carb rail about a half inch off it.

    then a compression check and leak down check.

    After all that, then your ready for the water. then test n tune for acceleration and top speed,then piston wash and plug chops.

    It's not all that hard to do, just take some time. Then you'll know what you have.


    Welcome to the Hulk! We love pics.. show us what you'll be riding!

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