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  1. #1

    Sealing pump and installing impeller this weekend. Any tips?

    I will be installing an impeller and PPK in my GPR this weekend and wondered if anyone had any tips for me. The impeller install is pretty straight forward, but I have read many threads about installing the PPK and found alot of do's and dont's some which contradict the other. I plan on following the step by step instrcutions provided by cajundude.com with the exception of using fast cure 4200 instead of 5200 just in case at some point in the futuer I need to remove the pump shoe. I have seen others that use clear silicone. Any pros or cons on using that? Also when I ireinstall the pump do I need to use any sealer between the pump amd impeller housing? Is so what?


  2. #2
    USCME's Avatar
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    PPK: If you follow cajundude's page you should be fine. Definitely do not use clear silicone, I don't think that would last very long under riding conditions. Go with at least the 4200; there's a lot of debate back and forth between 4200 and 5200 but enough people are running both of those with good results you should be fine with either.

    Impeller: Make sure you put a good bit of antiseize on the shaft threads where the impeller threads on, you'll really appreciate this if you ever need to change props down the road.

    Pump Housing: Yamaha recommends using Threebond 1211 between the pump and impeller housing. Some people change props so often they just make sure the mating surfaces are flat and clean and run no sealant, it's up to you. If you don't anticipate pulling it apart anytime soon you might as well put some sealant on there.

  3. #3
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    make sure you use a car jack to push your shoe into place while it dries, dont use the bolts.

    its important this is done correctly, level and with the right clearances because if it hangs low , you will lose a lot of speed.

  4. #4
    Well I am testing props so maybe I shouldn't seal the pump amd impeller housing yet. What started all this is my 01 modified GPR (Speedwerx 150PSI head, pro-tec rideplate and intake grate. Purchased it like this. Not my choice) wont go faster than 60 according to the speedo. We all know these speedos arent accurate. They're usually a bit generous so the ski is probably only going mid 50's in reality. I put it up against my stock 2000 GPR with a solas 13/19 prop and the stocker kicked its a**. Should be the other way around. So I pulled the pump and found that it did not have a PPK, even though cavitation wasnt that bad and the prop, which we determined to be a Nujet is beat all to hell. Surprisingly the wear ring is still in decent shape. I was given a 14/20 on loan to try out and I purchased a 13/20SB from Frank GPR. I want to try both of these to see which gives me the best performance.

    ---------- Post added at 12:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by izz0 View Post
    make sure you use a car jack to push your shoe into place while it dries, dont use the bolts.

    its important this is done correctly, level and with the right clearances because if it hangs low , you will lose a lot of speed.
    See, this is exactly why I posted this thread. Even though this topic has been covered numerous times and I read alot of conflicting stuff, this is the first time i have heard of using a car jack.

    ---------- Post added at 12:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 PM ----------

    On the current setuo the pump shoe is slightly lower than the ride plate. Is this supposed to be like this or do I want them flush?

  5. #5
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    the shoe should be slightly lower, you want a nice even (little) step between it.

    shoe (gap ) ________________ Plate
    =======

    make sure when you install the PPK that its sanded flush or the shoe wont go in properly.......its very important as well, its better to sand the ppk plugs too much than not enough...

    It also helps to match your grate to your shoe by sanding off the rough edges on the water facing mounting bosses so they dont catch any water.

    resistance is the enemy with your hull, so the aim is to remove or reduce any sharp edges that will catch water and therefore slow you down.


    when the shoe is in place, you should be able to hold a straight edge across the bottom of the hull over the shoe and fit a 20 cent piece under the straight edge across the shoe surface. I believe you yanks use a nickel for this test.

  6. #6
    So I'm outside working on the ski and just as I finish removing the pump shoe the UPS guy pulls up with my PPK and driveshaft tool. So now i can keep on working. Problem #1. When I removed the pump shoe I noticed that only about 1 inch of the OEM felt gasket was left. Does this matter or am I supposed to remove it anyway? Problem #2. Accoding to the directions in the PPK is say to note location of each specific molded insert and test fits each piece. I did tht and now I cant get the one curved triangle shape piece out of the shoe. I'll play with that and try to get that out while I wait to hear back about the felt gasket. Thanks guys.

    ---------- Post added at 01:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 PM ----------

    Also the directions say to use silicone. They make no mention of 4200 or 5200.

  7. #7
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    1. i dont run the felt gasket and i am running high 70's with a 1200 grate so i dont think it matters.

    2. hah have fun :P use a sharp pick to get it out or bang it on the floor ...they are a tight fit for some of them.


    silicone will blow out over time, its just not up to the task for a long term seal, i used white sikaflex on mine as we dont have 5200 here.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by yamadood View Post
    So I'm outside working on the ski and just as I finish removing the pump shoe the UPS guy pulls up with my PPK and driveshaft tool. So now i can keep on working. Problem #1. When I removed the pump shoe I noticed that only about 1 inch of the OEM felt gasket was left. Does this matter or am I supposed to remove it anyway? Problem #2. Accoding to the directions in the PPK is say to note location of each specific molded insert and test fits each piece. I did tht and now I cant get the one curved triangle shape piece out of the shoe. I'll play with that and try to get that out while I wait to hear back about the felt gasket. Thanks guys.

    ---------- Post added at 01:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 PM ----------

    Also the directions say to use silicone. They make no mention of 4200 or 5200.

    For the OEM Felt Gasket, scrape the rest of that thing off and throw in the trash. You don't need it. Instead, just use a bunch of 4200 on that part of the shoe in it's place.

  9. #9
    USCME's Avatar
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    Same here, I ditched the felt gasket and put some 4200 on in its place

  10. #10
    Can't find 4200 anywhere. I found 5200 but I don't want to use 5200 in case I have to remove the pump shoe in the future. In there anything else I can use that is equivalent to 5200?

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