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  1. #1

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    SL750 Pump alignment..and more..

    I am new to the forum, as a member. I have read post after post on this forum and this is the best forum I found. There is more information on this forum, than anywhere else I found. I would like to say thank you to everybody because without this forum, I would have been dead in the water - well maybe not dead and I would have been on dry land still....you get my drift....

    I purchased a Polaris SL750 about a month ago. The engine was not in the ski.

    I got the engine in the ski and it started great. I put the ski in water and realized after a few minutes, I didn't tighten the hose clamp on the water inlet hose. The ski hull filled with water and I shut it down. I pulled it out of the water, pulled the plugs, ran the starter for 15 to 20 second intervals until water was no longer coming out of the cylinders.
    I then put the plugs back in hand tight, backed them out 1/4 of a turn. Turned the starter again, pulled the plugs and cleaned them, and repeated this process about 5 or 6 times, until the milk stopped.
    Pulled the plugs, cleaned them and it fired off. I put it back in the water and it would bog, with no acceleration at all. I changed the plugs and it ran better. I rode it for about 20 or so minutes. I am guessing the poor performance, after the water issue, was related to water in the fuel pump or carbs somewhere.
    I brought it back home, pulled the engine and made sure there was no water in the crankcase. All is good.
    Now to my question
    I purchased the alignment tool from Watco. I attempted to align the pump and engine tonight, but ran into an issue:
    When I put the alignment tool through the pump, the bottom of the tool hits the bottom of the coupler hole - I have the larger black coupler with what looks like a rubber bushing in it. It is metal on metal. I was considering shimming the front of the engine, but have a concern the splines will not mesh properly - maybe 1/2 on top and 1/2 on bottom will actually make contact. I am wondering if that is what the rubber bushing in the coupler is for?
    Is this normal?
    I have no issues shimming the front and making sure the alignment is correct, but don't want to eat the splines off the drive shaft.

    I don't have any pictures/images to post yet, but will....

    Any help is greatly appreciated. If you have any input, please feel free to post.
    Last edited by JetSkiRider; 03-29-2011 at 07:03 PM. Reason: This turned into much more than pump alignment...thought the new Title was fitting


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    Do check the compression in your engine, since the water ingestion incident. Water doesn't compress, so you want to check that compression is where it should be. Throttle wide open, all plugs out.

    Also, it would be a good idea to spray fogging oil into the engine carb throats while it is idling. Just to ensure there is a protective oil coating on all the crank case bearings. Even though you ran it for 20 minutes (which is good), fogging oil is cheap insurance.

    I understand you are concerned about having the drive shaft canted inside the coupler. The alignment tool is a rather precision fit, so if it slides all the way into your coupler with the front of the engine shimmed higher, then the alignment is fine.

    If the alignment tool doesn't slide in nicely, then you will have to adjust the rear shims too, until it does go in nicely.

    This assumes that the bearings in your jet pump stator are in good condition, and that the stator itself is bolted in and seated properly in the pump base.

  3. #3
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk..

  4. #4
    Shim the front until you can easily and freely slide the alignment tool in to the coupler. Put a thin layer of grease on the end of the alignment tool (I use white lithium) and slide it straight in to the coupler and then straight back out enough to see the spline pattern on the end of the tool. You should see even spline marks lightly all around the tool. If the spline marks are concentrated on one side, shim accordingly until you reach the desired amount.

    I've had hulls use no shims and hit perfectly the first time around while others needed 4 or 5 shims only in one corner. They're all different.

  5. #5

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    I will shim the engine and post how it all goes.
    I have been reading posts on this forum, since I purchased the ski. This forum is a wealth of information!
    I will check the compression and spray some fogging oil.

    Thanks for all of your replies....

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk jetskirider.

    So, did the engine run good before the water intrusion incedent? And now it's running funny???

    Make sure the alignment tool fits all the way in the coupler nice and easy.

    TIP: depending on which motor mounts you tighten first, will also change the alignment. Basically, which motor mount you torque first, will "pull" the engine that direction.

    Be patient, take your time, and do it correctly. It should be the only time you have to do it.

  7. #7
    Watcon's Avatar
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    Dont force the tool into the coupler, and remove the rubber cover from the coupler first. Follow all the advice above, and dont be surprised if its an 1/8" out of alignment. Make some "U" shaped shims from material that you can get at NAPA or Home Depot, so you dont have to lift the motor out every time you want to add a shim.. Make some 1/8" shims from this material, and keep adding until the tool hits the other side of the coupler if necessary.. Its a long process to get it 100% correct.. If its hitting the bottom of the coupler, remove all the shims and start over.

    Occasionally there will be a huge problem, and you cannot get your engine low enough. You will have to have your bedplates machined to cure this problem..

    Regards,
    Randy

  8. #8
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    If you need shims, I have a bunch, let me know. I believe on the hull itself, there are numbers written by each engine mount that tells you the number of shims installed at production time.. that is of course, if thats the original engine mounts, bedplate and engine.

    sidenote--- Might want to check that the bolts holding the engine to the bedplate are tight.. they can become loose and actually fall out of the bottom.

  9. #9

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    The engine ran great prior to the water incident. When I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds, there was no water in the bottom end. That was a great find.

    I bought stainless washers this weekend, but other projects kept me busy. I did have a chance to build a stand, so I can pull it into the garage to work on it.

    Can I just cut the washers, so they can slide around the mount bolts? I was afraid of the cut section eating the rubber on the mount. I lifted the engine out by hand, so by getting it into the shop on a stand, I can use my engine crane and make this process much easier


    I am going to work on it tonight and will post results. Hopefully, I can get the alignment done tonight, so I can reassemble the rest of the engine and reconnect the wiring.

    I will try to get some pictures of the ski and stand tonight.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JetSkiRider View Post
    ... Can I just cut the washers, so they can slide around the mount bolts? I was afraid of the cut section eating the rubber on the mount...
    Make sure the U-shaped cut washers are flat, and file the cut edges smooth and rounded off.

    The 'normal' thickness for these engine mount shims is 1/32" or so, which is rather thin for large washers.

    In addition to stainless steel, you can make them out of tough flat plastic sheet material. It just has to be something that isn't going to degrade over time, or distort under the weight and tension of being clamped under the engine mounts. And won't work its way out with vibration.

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