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  1. #1

    How to get the water out?

    I bought a 94 SL780 today. Been sitting for two years, steering cable broke was the reason I'm pretty sure. The dummy I got it from washed the engine this morning with the flame arrestor off and filled the crank case with water. I did not know this and turned the engine over to check compression and spark... so now since the engine was fogged when it was put up the water has mixed with the oil and I now have the brown nasty goop in the crank case. How do I get it all out? Its thick!

    I turned the ski over and 2-3 quarts ran out the intake. Let it drain for a while and flipped it back over. Turned the engine over and its still pumping a bunch of this crap into the cylinders. It is currently sitting with Marvels Mystery Oil in the cylinders and crank case.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, recovering from flooded engines has been covered in prior threads, so I will summarize here.

    Crank the engine with the spark plugs out until you no longer have much liquid mist being ejected. Do this in bursts to give the starter motor time to cool between cranking bursts. Also keep the battery well charged, but do not crank it while the charger is powered on.

    What you want is for there to so little liquid left inside the engine that the pistons won't hydraulically lock during the compression stroke. Hydro-lock can crack pistons and bend connecting rods - expensive damage.

    Once the liquid is mostly pumped out, put the spark plugs back in and prime the engine with a small amount of fuel. Try to start it. Likely the plugs will almost immediately foul, so you will have to remove them, clean, dry, and reinstall. Don't bother torquing them up, just screw them in, and try again. Do this until it actually starts and runs.

    You can run it for maybe 30 seconds at a time without water cooling. Wait a couple of minutes, then run it again for 30 seconds. The idea is to get some heat into the crank case, yet not overheat anything.

    If it won't run without fuel priming, then the carbs may have water inside, or just gummed up.

    What you really want is to run the engine on the lake to get all the moisture out, but you should not do this until after you have serviced the fuel system and rebuilt the carburetors. Otherwise, you could cause damage from lean burn, and trade one problem for another.

    So run it as much as you dare without cooling water. Then spray fogging oil into the carb throats to protect the crank case from rust. And hope for the best.

    Note: There are drain plugs on the side of the engine, down low on the left (as you stand behind the ski). These are hard to get to without dismantling the exhaust system.

    Since you turned the hull over, there should not be a need to use the engine drain plugs.
    Last edited by K447; 03-12-2011 at 11:57 PM.

  3. #3
    Yes, I understand all that. But the issue is what has now mixed in the engine is thick as molasses on a cold winter day. Turning over with the plugs out is almost clean as can be. Put the plugs in or my finger over the plug hole and it sucks tons of goop up.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by X-Runner View Post
    ... what has now mixed in the engine is thick as molasses on a cold winter day.

    Turning over with the plugs out is almost clean as can be. Put the plugs in or my finger over the plug hole and it sucks tons of goop up.
    Well then, I guess you get to pull the entire intake system off the engine, and pump the gunk out of the crank case by hand.

    You can use this guide to take the intake system apart. Follow sections 3.1 to 3.3 and 6.1 through 6.5

    Once the intake gear is all removed, you may be able to just drain it into the hull by tipping the PWC onto its right side.

  5. #5
    Sounds like the best solution so far. Gas/oil tanks are empty, might just let it sit turned on its side for a few hours too once I get the intake off. Thanks

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by X-Runner View Post
    ... might just let it sit turned on its side for a few hours too once I get the intake off...
    What color is this goop?

    Oil + water is usually a milky off white color.

    If it is brown or milky brown, then the crank bearings may already be rusted from previous water exposure.

  7. #7
    Its somewhat brown but doesn't seem like rust. And the engine turns over by hand very smooth. Ill let you know what the results are tonight when I get back home. The ski is at a buddys, no trailer and I live in an apartment complex.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by X-Runner View Post
    Its somewhat brown but doesn't seem like rust. And the engine turns over by hand very smooth...
    Take a good flash light and some white cloth. Wipe the inside of the crank case, see what color the stuff is.

    And look closely at the crank shaft for any signs of rusting.

  9. #9
    No rust. Got it running today. Engine sounds great. Cleaned/flushed fuel tank and lines. Tore into the carbs to clean them but they are so gummed up I'm going to have to rebuild them.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by X-Runner View Post
    No rust. Got it running today. Engine sounds great. Cleaned/flushed fuel tank and lines.

    Tore into the carbs to clean them but they are so gummed up I'm going to have to rebuild them.
    Good to hear.

    Take the time to go over the entire fuel system, including the tank, fuel selector valve, filter, etc.

    Take a peak inside the magneto stator housing, if you at all suspect there may be water in there.

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