03-18-2011, 09:23 PM #1
How long should I continue the break-in for my FZS?
I've been riding my FZS the last two days "like I stole it", with .7 hours on the tack. I got it warm, then went to 3k for 15-30 seconds, then cut the throttle. did this several times, then worked to 4k, then 5k, 6k, 7k, etc... until full throttle runs are now the norm. I'm trying not to keep the throttle in one place for two long. How long do I need to keep this up?
Also, when should I change the oil, and how is it done? The manuals that came with the ski didn't say to do it after the break-in, but I think it's crazy not to. It also just said to have it done by a dealer with no explanation of how to do it myself. How is it done? Do I need anything special to do it?
03-18-2011, 09:44 PM #2
You want to do the 10 hour service which can be found in the service manual here online. This includes an oil change and the only special tool you will need is an oil extractor. The service manual will detail how to do all of this, including the other 10 hour services.
03-18-2011, 10:56 PM #3
Excellent!!! I was wondering about the availability of a service manual. That will come in very handy.
So, change oil at 10 hours. What about the break-in period? How much time should I continue varying the throttle until it's considered "broken-in"?
Do I need to buy the oil filter at a Yamaha dealer, or are they available at the local discount store?
Lastly, any recommendations on where to buy an oil extractor?
Thanks for the great advice.
03-18-2011, 11:31 PM #4
The reason you vary the throttle is so the rings get well lubricated during break-in so that they move easily and thus break-in properly. Sounds like you did a good job. I was told by a race engine builder friend of mine that rings are normally broken in within 20 minutes of doing what you are doing. So they are probably just fine. It might not hurt to very the throttle every once and awhile a little bit more, but I think for the most part you are done. To be safe, I would keep the on/off/on throttle until you hit 1 hour.
03-18-2011, 11:38 PM #5
you actually vary the throttle to seat (seal) both sides of the ring (top and bottom) not as described for lubrication so as they seal on the way up on the top edge and on the way down on the bottom edge. consider your ski broken in by now if you have been riding it like you stole it lol.
03-19-2011, 09:07 AM #6
Pretty much any oil extractor will work good. Put the hose down the dipstick and start pumping. Make sure the ski is on a level surface when you are doing this. Once you get all you can, wait 5 minutes then try again. Next, raise the port side of the trailer and get some more oil out. Try adjusting the trailer height too and pumping oil out at different levels. This entire process has gotten the most oil out for me. Only put back as much oil as you get out!!! otherwise you'll overfill it and the ski will idle like crap and you run the risk of getting oil into your air intake.
03-19-2011, 08:21 PM #7
Here's the oil filter you need
This is the oil extractor
03-19-2011, 08:57 PM #8
Dang, I must be totally good to go with mine. I was babying it under 4 and 5K with only WOT for like 2 or 3 seconds and have 1.7 hours on the ticker now. Sounds like its time to GET SOME! Thanks for the links GH
03-20-2011, 08:51 AM #9
And don't buy that over priced Yamaha filter. Anyone who pays $25 for a filter plus shipping is crazy.
You can get one like this for about $10 bucks and it's just as good. Try to find one locally.
Or you could use a WIX 51348 which are about $5 each
03-20-2011, 09:12 AM #10
"breaking the rings in" means, that you are applying high pressure on the rings for a short period of time to make the rings "scrub " the finely cross hatched cylinder walls so that they will "mate" to each other thus making a perfect seal. letting it cool off between runs is a good idea. They generally set within 20 min riding.
"once scratched" your good to go. now the rings have wore down the cross hatching enough so the rings are square to the bore and the leftover hatching is for the oil film between the ring and wall. actually, they barely touch, they are riding on the film of oil hopefully! Sounds like its running good.
If you dont let it cool between runs, it can get glazed on the inside of the cylinder and cause loss of power. no way to cure that except re-ringing and honing, try it again.
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By mstennes in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 5Last Post: 07-28-2008, 10:00 AM
By TorquayTom in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 22Last Post: 06-03-2008, 02:52 PM
By MPower in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)Replies: 3Last Post: 10-19-2007, 09:02 PM
By 98Hawk in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 2Last Post: 05-29-2007, 01:00 AM
By naorav in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 5Last Post: 08-13-2005, 03:25 PM