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  1. #1

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    95 SLT750 Coupler Removal

    I am going to start work on the 95 SLT750 in the next week or so.
    This ski has a great running engine, but the driveshaft and pump need attention.
    It was my first ski purchase. I bought it as a gift for my better half and had no idea what I was getting into.
    The driveshaft has a 1/4" bolt through the coupler and driveshaft. I didn't know that would be a problem, but have learned so much since this ski purchase.
    I took the pump out and pulled the driveshaft.
    The driveshaft and coupler are toast. Neither have any splines on the pto side. I mean no splines. The driveshaft was flopping around in the coupler on the bolt.
    I have another driveshaft and coupler, along with the entire pump off a friends ski that has a bad engine.
    I also have the alignment tool, from Watcon.

    Have any of you used the rope in the pto cylinder trick to get the coupler off?
    Did it cause any index issues with the crank?
    Do you use a pipe wrench on the coupler?
    How much force does it really take? Will I need a pipe to put over the handle of the wrench?
    I am going to start soaking the coupler to crank connection with pb blaster a few days before I attempt this. Hope fully that will help ease the pain of removal.

    Once I get the new coupler on, I will do an alignment check and correct the problem. I can only assume that is how this all began for the previous owner.

    It gets better....they also had a lawnmower battery in the ski. They bolted an "extension" cable on the positive battery cable, so the battery would sit behind the electrical box.
    The electrical box was spliced back into the ski and the wires were so short, the box would not sit on top of the proper battery. I extended the wires, using wires with colors that match - for the most part. I soldered all of the connections and put marine shrinkwrap around them. When we tested this ski, the mfd would come on and go off. I am thinking a bad solder joint in my extension. The wires were really rough. I stripped the back a couple of inches to get the cleanest wire, but it may not have been enough.

    When we tested it, the ski had no holeshot. Once it got up on a plane, it would run fine. Not real fast, but it would keep going.

    I am sure there is more "engineering" that was done to this ski. I just can't recall all of it right now...

    When I bought it, they told me it ran fine and they didn't have any trouble with the ski.....I guess ignorance paid off for them, mine.

    Anyhow, any info on the rope in the pto cylinder trick would be greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JetSkiRider View Post
    Have any of you used the rope in the pto cylinder trick to get the coupler off?
    Did it cause any index issues with the crank?
    Do you use a pipe wrench on the coupler?
    How much force does it really take? Will I need a pipe to put over the handle of the wrench?
    I am going to start soaking the coupler to crank connection with pb blaster a few days before I attempt this. Hope fully that will help ease the pain of removal.
    1. Yes, it's the only way to do it.

    2. No index issues as long as you use the correct cyl. PTO cyl. to remove engine coupler and the MAG when removing the flywheel when using the rope trick.

    3. Pipe wrench will work, or an adjustable wrench on the "flats" of the coupler.

    4. It takes alot of force. Prob around 100 ft lbs. or more

    5. Most likely

    6. You can try penetrating oil, but I doubt it will help.

    TIP: using a bungee cord works better than rope.

    And do not get the rope or bungee caught in the port openings. Get the piston high enough to cover the openings, then install as much rope as you can. Make sure to leave enough to pull it back out.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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  4. #4

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    Mar 2011
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    Tallahassee, Florida
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    Removed and replaced the coupler last night.
    The rope trick worked great!

    I also replaced the driveshaft and impeller.

    Going to test today....

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Good luck.

  6. #6

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    Tallahassee, Florida
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    Well......the engine was running strong, last time I took this ski out.
    The plugs were bad, so that stopped the testing. I didn't have a spare set, but I do now
    Even when the ski was in the water, there was no hole shot. The engine would rev, as good as it could with a bad plug or two.
    Prior to the trip, I replaced the ride plate. The plate on the ski was for a SL750 and was not large enough for the SLT.

    I have a new pump housing, the piece that mounts to the rear of the hull, where the wear ring would be. I am hopeful this will solve the hole shot issue.
    I will do the realignment, once I mount the new housing.

    Any other ideas on the holeshot issue? I replaced the impeller with a good one.

    I also have a 3 outlet fuel pump to install, since the original pump is a known issue on these skis.

    I guess sometime this week, I will get the parts on the ski and test in the water....

  7. #7
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JetSkiRider View Post
    When we tested it, the ski had no holeshot. Once it got up on a plane, it would run fine. Not real fast, but it would keep going.
    Quote Originally Posted by JetSkiRider View Post
    Prior to the trip, I replaced the ride plate. The plate on the ski was for a SL750 and was not large enough for the SLT.
    When you say "no holeshot", are you saying that it had no power, or no hookup as in cavitation?

    It sounds like the first outing was with a host of problems, one being the wrong rideplate.

    Your second outing was with a bunch of fixes, one being the correct rideplate.

    If it's not holeshotting due to cavitation, did you make sure the rideplate was sealed real well to the hull, especially the forward, outer edges?

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    It did have lots of issues, when I first took it out.


    On this trip:
    It would not hook up, but the engine would rev up. Once it was on a plane, it would ride fine at about 45 or so (according to MFD). It would hang with my buddies SLT750.
    It just won't "take off".

    I will check the ride plate and make sure it is seated well.

    I am also going to try to measure the gap around the impeller.

  9. #9

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    what prop did you put in there it seems to big on the low end

  10. #10
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    It does souind like cavitation to me, but like he said ^^^^^,. what impeller did you install?


    When you replaced the ride plate, did you silicone all around the edges?

    Did you silicone around the intake grate where it meets the ride plate?

    What silicone did you use if you did?

    When you installed the pump housing to the hull, did you install the large O ring between the housing and the "shoe" ? (jet pump intake)

    Do you see any exhaust soot inside the jet pump intake area?

    Does the pump "shoe" look to be sealed with silicone to the hull well?

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