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  1. #1
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    Installed R&D Billet Couplers

    Just installed the Couplers from R&D that are supposed to help the SC clutch. I really hope they help as getting the engine out was a bitch. Removing and replacing the couplers actually only took 15 minutes.

    I was hoping that I could get the couplers off without taking the engine out (completely) but everyone told me that it had to come out and they were right. Had to remove (in order) the intake, SC, IC, the exhaust and the rectifier. Lots of electrical connections and some water supplies/pissers (I had the R&D triple cooling kit but am removing it while the engine is out). My particular engine had a shim under each of the four motor mounts and we labeled them upon removal for reinstallation.

    Incidentally, I thought the R&D triple cooling kit was smaller than 1/2" but it is not--all three thru-hulls I installed were 1/2". I will be connecting two with a single hose and the third supply will be going dedicated to the IC. I removed the OEM 4-way in front of the IC and installed the FX-HO 3-way (like $15 shipped to my door from the GH store). Also, I installed the Riva pisser that came with my new IC in the OEM spot on the starboard side of the boat for visibility reasons and let me just say that even with the engine out I could not a.) get the pisser in position, b.) tighten the nut on the inside of the hull, c.) install hose and d.) tighten hose clamp. I just could not do it. My buddy got it done (he's the man that should be writing this).

    Only things I thought I'd mention is that you will need some tools (thanks for these from a friend help here on the Hulk). You will need a total of three tools to get the couplers off:

    Coupler tool (available from R&D, Yamaha or I've seen these in the GH classifieds)

    Crankshaft holding tool (only available from Yamaha?)

    Tool to hold the shaft in the mid wall (not the same tool as the crankshaft tool--this could possibly be done with the pump somehow...)
    I will note that a Tigershark driveshaft works for holding the midwall shaft as it's different than the splines in the crankshaft and my buddy had part of one in his ultimate tool set with a nut welded to it.

    I also installed Oetiker clamps and replaced all the OEM and screw type of hose clamps while I had the engine out.

    I took a ton of pics but for some reason I'm having issues with uploading them. As soon as I can get them added I will.


  2. #2
    Bounty Hunter Carlos Thomas's Avatar
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    My Yamaha mechanic said he does not have to remove the engine. He said to install those you can just slide the engine to install.

  3. #3
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Awesome info Craig

  4. #4
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Thomas View Post
    My Yamaha mechanic said he does not have to remove the engine. He said to install those you can just slide the engine to install.
    That's what I thought... The engine will come out to get these couplers in.

    Wish I could say otherwise as it would be easier but you need the room for the tools and the leverage.

    Maybe he could prove me wrong.

  5. #5
    db2540's Avatar
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    Also, I installed the Riva pisser that came with my new IC in the OEM spot on the starboard side of the boat for visibility reasons and let me just say that even with the engine out I could not a.) get the pisser in position, b.) tighten the nut on the inside of the hull, c.) install hose and d.) tighten hose clamp. I just could not do it. My buddy got it done (he's the man that should be writing this).
    Been there, done that, one out. Do your self a favour and get some OEM pissers.

  6. #6
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Great post, thanks - IM sent

  7. #7
    hitman's Avatar
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    Nice work Craig. Let us now how the difference feels once you ride it.

  8. #8
    It's not the destination, it's the journey!! Rip'nTear SHO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitman View Post
    Nice work Craig. Let us now how the difference feels once you ride it.
    +1

  9. #9
    L Carlson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5001craig View Post
    That's what I thought... The engine will come out to get these couplers in.

    Wish I could say otherwise as it would be easier but you need the room for the tools and the leverage.

    Maybe he could prove me wrong.
    Remove motor mount bolts, mark your shims pull bolts from intershaft. Motor forward 2 inch. Good to go.

  10. #10
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L Carlson View Post
    Remove motor mount bolts, mark your shims pull bolts from intershaft. Motor forward 2 inch. Good to go.
    I am thinking this in my head as I have been through this. You can move the motor forward some after you remove the I/C and anything else in the way. The issue then becomes getting the intermediate out of the way and being able to get the tools in place and having the space to work. I think I also ran into the shaft preventing me from getting the intermediate out so the pump would have to come apart as well. Maybe it is possible, but I know I and others have pulled the motor for some reason. I just can't clearly remember everything I went through to get to that point as I was trying my damnest to do it without pulling it.

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