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  1. #1

    Bolt snapped off at the pump housing!

    Hi All;
    I knew my mechanical good luck had to run out! I snapped one of the long pump bolts off flush with the pump housing. I was actually making progress with an extractor, and got about 1/3 of the bolt out, and then the bolt itself snapped. So I cleaned it out again and got the extractor set, and then of course the extractor snapped in the hole. Since I can't get the extractor out, I guess I need to pull the pump and attack it from the backside. So, any good tips on how to remove the ride plate and pump. I replaced a ride plate once and it was really difficult to get the old one off. What is the best way to remove these parts?


  2. #2
    thester71's Avatar
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    Why remove the rideplate? Just remove the four nuts and waterlines on the inside of the hull and disconnect the trim linkage and the steering cable from the outside then remove the pump

  3. #3
    So it's possible to get the pump off without removing the ride plate? It appears that the pump has a lot of silicone or glue in addition to the 4 nuts. I just assumed I would have to remove the ride plate to get in there with a razor blade or something to slice the sealer.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Just to be clear - you have the pump body (stator + nozzle) already removed and are considering how to remove the broken bolt from the pump BASE. The pump base is indeed sealed to the hull, using an o-ring.

    If you remove the pump base you may need to align the engine after reinstalling the base. That requires an alignment tool.

    A machine shop may be able to get the stub out without pulling the pump base.

  5. #5
    Yes K447, you described it much better than I did--thank you. I'm trying to figure out how to get the remains of the bolt, and now a broken extractor, out of my pump base. It appears that the only way to fix this is too remove the pump base from the hull. The extractor is broken on an angle and looks to be about impossible to remove from the front. My shop manual discusses the alignment tool, and talks about checking the pump to hull alignment with a feeler gauge. So is this a really major job to get the pump base off the hull, and more importantly, getting it back on the hull correctly aligned? I was hoping that I could remove the base and then reinstall it without drive line issues, since I won't be moving the motor.

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    What ski do you have?

    Actually the pump base is not sealed to the hull. The water intake shoe is sealed.

    The pump base is sealed with a large O ring.

    Depending on what ski you're talking about, some can be removed without having to align, others cannot.

    If you have 4 nuts on the exterior of the ski securing the pump base to the hull, you'll be fine. As long as you don't loosen the nuts on the inside.

    If you don't, and need to remove the nuts from the interior to remove it, you will need to re-align it.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    ... If you have 4 nuts on the exterior of the ski securing the pump base to the hull...

    If you ... remove the nuts from the interior ...
    Do you recall when Polaris changed from one method to the other?

  8. #8
    Well, it looks like I will have to re align. My ski is a virage TX, and there are only 4 nuts inside the hull. Where do I get one of these tools, and how much is it?

  9. #9
    jackofalltrades's Avatar
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    Is there any exposed bolt or extractor above the pump base or is it broke off flush? You can drill out an easy out (extractor) with a carbide bit but I can tell you its slow going. If you have enough metal exposed above the surface another method is MIG welding a small steel rod to the end of the broken bolt and easy out. MIG welders produced a lot of heat and they do it really fast so the welding portion would have to be very brief as in a couple of seconds. Unless you have experience with a MIG, I wouldnt let this be my first time trying this out Another option that I used when working on aircraft was to try and remove the broken easy out with a center punch. According to how big of a surface area you have showing, you might be able to lightly tap the edges of the easy out with a center punch forcing it in a clockwise motion. If you do get it out, a little heat from a heat gun to warm the orignal bolt you were trying to remove and then let it cool and try again with a new extractor. Of course, in this case you dont want to heat it up so much that you heat the hull and damage it.

  10. #10
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Looks like 98 is about the time they switched.

    97 SLTX appears to have the new style, but the 1997 SL 780 still used the external mounting nuts.

    That's why I say around 1998

    ---------- Post added at 08:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------

    Unfortunately rpt50, i had the exact same situation happen to me.

    Using the easy out, I would get about 3/8" of the bolt out of the pump. (it would snap inside the part) And then finally I got about 1" deep in the pump and the easy out snapped.

    I'm still trying to get that thing out. Unfortunately now, I like you, have a Stainless Steel bolt with hardened steel stuck inside aluminum.

    It's not looking good. You MIGHT want to start looking for a cheap replacement part, just in case that one doesn't want to cooperate. Or you just want to take the easy way out.

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