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  1. #1
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    Psi exhaust pipe

    I bought a used psi wet pipe, but it doesn't have an air bypass fitting. How do I plumb it?



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  2. #2

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    air bypass ? look like a fat 750 pipe ,pluming should be almost same

  3. #3
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    My slx has three fittings on the stock pipe

    Psi only has two


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    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    That pipe is actually a re-branded stock 1992 650 dry pipe. It only has one water in line at the bottom and a pisser off the top.

    1992 routing


    ---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 PM ----------

    1993 routing.

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    PSI did not make a wet pipe. You have a dry pipe.

    The fitting at the top of the pipe is the air-bypass. If any air gets trapped in the cooling system, it will "burp" it out overboard.

    Plumb that fitting to a "pisser" or "T" it into your cooling water exit.

    Might I suggest you get a spare exhaust hose and water strainer when using a dry pipe. It doesn't take much to clog the tiny cooling orifice inside the pipe. When that happens, the rubber exhaust hoses overheat and collapse.

    ---------- Post added at 08:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:19 PM ----------

    Here's some good info and pics of available "goodies" back in the day.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...&highlight=psi

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...&highlight=psi

  6. #6
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    A spare to have on hand? If that's the case....I prob should do a pisser so I know when it happens


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  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Yes, a spare exhaust hose.

    The pisser for the dry pipe will NOT help identify a clogged cooling orifice. A sluggish, nonresponsive ski will be your indicator. Or any water sizzling on the waterbox is a good sign too.

    Interestingly enough, your hoses will actually collapse VS. expand and burst like you would think. The ski will respond like normal when kept to 3000 RPM or so, but once you get a bit faster than that, it will fall on it's face. Only because the exhaust stream is severly restricted by the collapsed hose.

  8. #8
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Yes, a spare exhaust hose.

    The pisser for the dry pipe will NOT help identify a clogged cooling orifice. A sluggish, nonresponsive ski will be your indicator. Or any water sizzling on the waterbox is a good sign too.

    Interestingly enough, your hoses will actually collapse VS. expand and burst like you would think. The ski will respond like normal when kept to 3000 RPM or so, but once you get a bit faster than that, it will fall on it's face. Only because the exhaust stream is severly restricted by the collapsed hose.
    Makes sense...air exiting orifice...not water

    Does it even need the small orifice or can I use a regular barbed fitting?

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBone14 View Post
    Makes sense...air exiting orifice...not water

    Does it even need the small orifice or can I use a regular barbed fitting?

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    Actually it will be a steady stream of water coming out the top fitting. And any air trapped inside the cooling system will exit that fitting along with it since it's the highest point.

    Small orifice or barbed fitting for what???? To connect the air bypass fitting to?

    If so, you only need a pisser/bypass fitting or "T" it into your water exit hose.

    You seem a bit confused about dry pipes.

    92 and 93 Polaris SL 650/750's came stock with a "dry pipe".

    All 94 and newer Polaris skis came with a "wet pipe".


    Both pipes are water jacketed (pipe within a pipe to allow water to cool them) which keeps under seat temps down.

    A WET PIPE has water injected into the exhaust stream from the fitting at the top to a "stinger" or metered fitting in the middle of the pipe in order to manipulate the exhaust flow characteristics. (water injection cools down the exhaust which essentially slows down the speed of the exiting exhaust gases) Tricking the motor into thinking there is a longer exhaust pipe. This in turn, gives a better bottom end response.

    A DRY PIPE does not have water injected into the exhaust stream keeping exhaust gas temps higher and moving faster. This in turn gives better top end performance. There is however a small orifice at the bottom of the pipe near the exit that injects a very small amount of water in order to cool the rubber hoses connecting the pipe to the waterbox, the waterbox itself, and the hose going from the waterbox to the exit.

    Now a performance mod that a few guys will do is add water injection to a dry pipe. Using a controller to to turn the water injection on at certain RPM's (WET pipe) for bottom end, and shutting it off after a certain RPM to make top end power. (DRY) Kind of like the best of both worlds when using a single pipe exhaust.

    http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/exh..._injection.htm

  10. #10
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    Yep I was confused...thanks for the description. As I learn about this stuff, I want to understand how it works.

    Thanks.


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