04-09-2011, 01:27 PM #1
Anyone in MA with SD Alignment tool?
Looking for a few options for alignment of a new 951 rebuild just dropped into my 01 GTX. I have an option for a loaner tool mailed to/from me but shipping might run about $80 I'm guessing. A dealer an hr away will do it for $75 and I was clear the pump and shaft are removed so it should go quick, 1hr min I guess they want. My preference is to find someone in MA I might bring it to to work with to do the job and pay them. Guess it's something I want to partake in and dealers have that insurance BS that they won't let me be present....unless of course knowing it will be quick they might bring plate and rod into the parking lot vs. pulling it inside. Also I'm very picky and not sure how much I'd trust them with some stories I've read and not even using the alignment tool.
04-09-2011, 03:40 PM #2
do it the redneck way. its worked for every rebuild that i have done. what you do is loosen the front motor mount. slightly loosen the two rear ones. pull the plug wires off the plugs. bump over the motor a couple times and then check the drive shaft play. if you feel that there is a little play in all directions you are in good shape. if not move the motor by hand till you have some play in all directions.
welcome to GH!
04-09-2011, 05:55 PM #3
I pre did a method I read on here where you stick just the drive shaft through with no pump or anything with it. At pump shoe you swing the shaft end to all 4 points(left, right, up, down) and get the dimensions equal. It was off 1/4 up and down, which I least expected since I did not disturb the factory shims. I then removed the 4 factory shims under the front mount(2-1.3mm & 2-0.3mm) and it became dead on at the shoe in all directions. Problem with this then became that someone told me the plastic coupler, that the accordian boot goes on, is actualy installed at the factory after the alignment and they center it about the shaft. Once I got those dimensions at shoe dead on the shaft is still going through the plastic low but it's up from the initial inspection before I removed the front shims. Also letting the shaft dangle in the end caused the shaft to bottom out in the hull hole...this being before I removed the shims which it now no longer bottoms out but is close. So if the shaft should pass through the plastic at it's center and be equal distance at pump shoe then I believe the motor is low and removing the front shims only fixed half the issue. But do I trust this method of swinging the drive shaft, or plastic coupler centered? enthusiasts I've been talking with say NO!! The only way to be sure is with the alignment tool. After the money I just dropped into this build and PPG L1 I do not want to muck it up because I was to cheap, or in a hurry to finish the job right.
Honestly I didn't get your method. Bumping the starter will kick it to align? I'd think the torque would cause the motor to jump or slip on the mounts more than the ball end of the drive shaft would force an alignment?
Having it to do again I might have rebuilt the pump last and had a shop down the street custom make a trued rod for pump bearing and PTO fit. To late now as the pump is done and waiting on my arse.
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