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  1. #1

    Driveshaft Experts - PICS - Part #2

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    Because im such the computer genius and have no idea how to work a "URL"....i started this thread as "part 2" in order to stick these additional pics in here for you guys to tell me ***if I need a NEW driveshaft after 160hrs???***

    thanks a bunch! I apologize for the 2 seperate threads for this one topic!


  2. #2
    R88ory RXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
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    Because im such the computer genius and have no idea how to work a "URL"....i started this thread as "part 2" in order to stick these additional pics in here for you guys to tell me ***if I need a NEW driveshaft after 160hrs???***

    thanks a bunch! I apologize for the 2 seperate threads for this one topic!
    Shaft is fine, fit a new C clip and be done, I had the C lip come out on my boat, fitted new carbon seal, new boot, new O rings in the stainless top hat and a new C clip, no issues since and zero cavitation.

    What happens is the boot gets soft, and moves backwards under accel, that in turn sucks the top hat backwards and allows the C clip to come out esspecially if its worn, then the water pressure pushes it back forward and fills the hull.

    The Driveshafts can and do wear but yours looks good to me.

    R88

    ---------- Post added at 08:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 AM ----------

    You could also consider putting a tie wrap behind the boot so that it increases the pressure on the seal, and some have run with tiewraps in the creases of the boot, that stops it being sucked back.

    R88

  3. #3
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R88ory RXP View Post
    Shaft is fine, fit a new C clip and be done, I had the C lip come out on my boat, fitted new carbon seal, new boot, new O rings in the stainless top hat and a new C clip, no issues since and zero cavitation.

    What happens is the boot gets soft, and moves backwards under accel, that in turn sucks the top hat backwards and allows the C clip to come out esspecially if its worn, then the water pressure pushes it back forward and fills the hull.

    The Driveshafts can and do wear but yours looks good to me.

    R88

    ---------- Post added at 08:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 AM ----------



    You could also consider putting a tie wrap behind the boot so that it increases the pressure on the seal, and some have run with tiewraps in the creases of the boot, that stops it being sucked back.

    R88
    +1

  4. #4
    suck my wake's Avatar
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    Turbo your prop end splines have a wear grove in them as you can see it on the left side of the spline in the pic, the teeth are wearing thin and your c-clip groove looks to me like it is worn, what kind of mods/power are you running? Are they the same as your sig? If you are wearing the spines like that you either have serious power or the hardening is soft on that shaft. Personally if it were my ski I would throw a new shaft and c-clip in there and I would also check the inner spines on the prop to make sure they are ok too. Just my .02

  5. #5
    haleyscomet's Avatar
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    Just went through this on my stock RXP. GF sucked up a rock so I put a new impeller and wear ring. Nephew turned the impeller off the driveshaft in less than 6 hours of riding. New shaft and another new impeller. The sticker was still on the impeller when I took it out.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by suck my wake View Post
    Turbo your prop end splines have a wear grove in them as you can see it on the left side of the spline in the pic, the teeth are wearing thin and your c-clip groove looks to me like it is worn, what kind of mods/power are you running? Are they the same as your sig? If you are wearing the spines like that you either have serious power or the hardening is soft on that shaft. Personally if it were my ski I would throw a new shaft and c-clip in there and I would also check the inner spines on the prop to make sure they are ok too. Just my .02
    Thanks for all the comments so far guys!...

    R88ory: This happened right after installing a brand new boot and wear ring.....the manual didnt specify using a new c clip, so i didnt think to replace that. I replaced all the O rings and driveshaft damper also. Just not the C clip

    SuckMyWake: My mods are still my sig at the moment. However, just after posting this last night, it hit me like a brick ---> this driveshaft was in my ski (of course) 2.5yrs ago when i bent a connecting rod (after towing - yea, fun). Well, the ski was driven for about 4 weekends or so and then the connecting rod came through the case.
    Im wondering if the majority of this wear came from running with a bent connecting rod for maybe 20hrs or so?????

  7. #7
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    What was the condition of the 2 rubber o-rings inside the floating ring? Those 2 wear marks look as though the o-rings are non-existent; metal to metal contact.

  8. #8
    RXP305's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    What was the condition of the 2 rubber o-rings inside the floating ring? Those 2 wear marks look as though the o-rings are non-existent; metal to metal contact.

    +1 The shaft is rough on the side of the collar (foating ring) where the Oring slides through and even if you add new orings you might have a possibility to damage the Orings and have a water leak, I would suggest to replace the driveshaft. Get it over with and buy a new driveshaft and make sure to align the motor before installing a drive shaft.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    What was the condition of the 2 rubber o-rings inside the floating ring? Those 2 wear marks look as though the o-rings are non-existent; metal to metal contact.
    Yea I noticed that too when i first took it apart to do the new seal. I dont understand how that happened either. The O rings that came out of the floating ring were pretty good though; no tears etc. But i replaced all the O rings anyway when i did the seal last week. This time around, Im getting a new floating ring also.

    I'm at the point now where I'm wondering what the dealership did/didn't do when they put my shit together when replacing my motor a year ago....because in another recent thread of mine (at the beginning of me replacing this carbon seal), i had issues with removing my damn SCer. bitch was locked in there....turned out the mating surfaces of SCer and case were scarred BAD and frozen together with scars and corrosion. I guess the dealership doesnt believe in assembly lube of any kind on f*ck'n anything :<

    ---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by RXP305 View Post
    Get it over with and buy a new driveshaft and make sure to align the motor before installing a drive shaft.
    So why is it that when you buy a new driveshaft that you should align anything? The motor's position and motor mounts aren't changing....just a new shaft between pump and motor. Id hate to try and align it because i dont have any of those special tools and dont really understand or know how yet

  10. #10
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
    Yea I noticed that too when i first took it apart to do the new seal. I dont understand how that happened either. The O rings that came out of the floating ring were pretty good though; no tears etc. But i replaced all the O rings anyway when i did the seal last week. This time around, Im getting a new floating ring also.


    I'm at the point now where I'm wondering what the dealership did/didn't do when they put my shit together when replacing my motor a year ago....because in another recent thread of mine (at the beginning of me replacing this carbon seal), i had issues with removing my damn SCer. bitch was locked in there....turned out the mating surfaces of SCer and case were scarred BAD and frozen together with scars and corrosion. I guess the dealership doesnt believe in assembly lube of any kind on f*ck'n anything :<

    Ahh yes....dealerships. Been there done that.....but no more! I'd replace the driveshaft and ALL related parts, and I would do the work myself!

    ---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 PM ----------



    So why is it that when you buy a new driveshaft that you should align anything? The motor's position and motor mounts aren't changing....just a new shaft between pump and motor. Id hate to try and align it because i dont have any of those special tools and dont really understand or know how yet
    What makes you think the dealership re-aligned it when they replaced your engine last year??? And no anti-seize on the S/C?........this could explain why you have problems now. The driveshaft is the link between the engine and the pump........Its gotta be aligned correctly.

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