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  1. #1

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    R n D Transom Plate

    Hi,

    I am about to begin the process of chasing out cavitation from my FZR and i was wondering if the R n D transom plate was worth 400 bucks OR can you achieve similar results by filling in the cavaties yourself with resin and "line boring" the transom with a flapper disk and a battery drill ?

    Has anyone actually bought and installed the plate and were you happy/unhappy with the results ?

    Thanks

    Dan


  2. #2
    coldspace's Avatar
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    Hey Dan, call GaryW and get the transom silicon infills and put them in. Alot cheaper and seal up the rideplate as well with sikaflex.
    Get my ski back soon, will fit the wato intercooler and we will hook up for a ride day.

  3. #3

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    So Watson Racing sells the silicone infills for the upper part of the transon transom ?? i.e. you have to remove the transom to install ......

    I already have his intake grate silicone infills, very happy with them.

    Had an awsome ride on the weekend, great weather ! 5 of us did 180 klms in a figure of 8 around North and South Straddie, starting/finishing at Wello with a refuel at Horizon Shores, kind of sore on Monday though !!

  4. #4
    Just relax and enjoy the ride. XLT Chad's Avatar
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    You could also fill the cavities with Alumilite casting resin. I just did this, it turned out really well and was easy to do. One kit was enough to do my transom plate and intake grate.

  5. #5
    BAYOU FZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan_FZR View Post
    Hi,

    I am about to begin the process of chasing out cavitation from my FZR and i was wondering if the R n D transom plate was worth 400 bucks OR can you achieve similar results by filling in the cavaties yourself with resin and "line boring" the transom with a flapper disk and a battery drill ?

    Has anyone actually bought and installed the plate and were you happy/unhappy with the results ?

    Thanks

    Dan
    Dan you can do it yourself jerry showed us how to do it
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...+transom+plate

  6. #6

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    Hey Bayou,

    I was more after a comparison of results between the two i.e. buying the R n D one or doing it yourself.

  7. #7
    rick xp's Avatar
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    Dude there is no difference. I actually just used epoxy resin you get from bunnings. I also took my transom to a local machine shop and it bored out to 160mm to suit the pump. Cost me 50 bucks.

  8. #8
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan_FZR View Post
    Hi,

    I am about to begin the process of chasing out cavitation from my FZR and i was wondering if the R n D transom plate was worth 400 bucks OR can you achieve similar results by filling in the cavaties yourself with resin and "line boring" the transom with a flapper disk and a battery drill ?

    Has anyone actually bought and installed the plate and were you happy/unhappy with the results ?

    Thanks

    Dan
    So far i haven't seen anyone post results on it. I've ordered the service through Jerry & will be shipping my spare TP to R&D next week, so it'll be a few weeks before it comes back & gets installed. I'm not sure how results on the SHO will compare to an FZ because of the different tunnel designs but I'll definately make a post once I've tested it. I spoke to Phillip_GPR awhile back & he said he was gonna try it but not sure if he has yet...his was for a SHO as well. There's one in the classifieds right now, so maybe the seller could give you some feedback on it.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ight=rocketman

    I don't recommend making big changes to it by hand. Jerry & 2Fast4U had good results making small changes to the plate to give it a more seemless transition from the tunnel. Most skis I've seen have the plate hanging down a little where it mates to the top of the tunnel. Removing that step will make the water flow entering the pump a little cleaner & help reduce cavitation as well. Most importantly, don't mess with the ramp on the bottom of the transom plate. I smoothed that out when blueprinting mine & it caused an overstuff. I also opened up the shoe section of the grate to match the ID of the TP which further added to the handling issues. Even after putting another unmodded Riva grate back on the overstuff was still happening because of the changes I made to the ramp on the TP. I originally thought the R&D grate fixed the buck, but after a little more seat time it was still giving me an overstuff when I was in dirty water following other skis. If you decide to go ahead & try it yourself with a flapper wheel, just be real careful on your first test ride, because if it bucks on you you'll likely go for a high speed swim if you don't have a death grip on the bars. Also, keep in mind if you use a ride plate with lots of angle like a VX plate, the more likely changes like this will cause an overstuff. Again, results may be different on your FZ than a SHO but just be aware of the risk.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...plate-on-a-SHO!!!

  9. #9
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing the epoxy fill youself. Just use a good 2 part epoxy and allow it to cure completely.
    As far as the 160 mm line bore, if you have someone that can do it for you that is definitely an option. I personally would not recommend using a drill yourself if you can help it at all. There are other options available now for that so it's not really necessary.

    I would also provide the entire pump to the machinist so you can make sure you ge the impeller/pump clearance you wish.

  10. #10
    hitman's Avatar
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    Looking forward to your results Mark. Been wondering how it works on a SHO.

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