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  1. #1

    1998 SLTX 1050 only firing off the PTO Cylinder

    I bought the ski from a guy who said that he rebuilt the engine after the oil pump went out and the motor was fried. I have had the ski for a few weeks now and the first time I took it out it seemed to be running fine and then it bogged down and died. then it would not get over 35 mph and about 4500 rpms. I did some research on here and read up on how some skis go into limp mode for different reasons. On my ski there is a read light on the mfd and the fuel level shows to be low even though the tank is full. I took the ski back out today to check out some things I read like to remove the plus controlling the fuel sensor going into the cdi. This time it did not even go upto 35 it barely went about 6 mph. I checked the spark plus and only the PTO cylinder seemed to be firing, ( the other 2 were real wet). I cranked it up and when I disconnected the MAG or the CEN plug wires nothing happened but if I disconnected the PTO it would die. I am a newb and would appreciate any help I can get.

    Jon


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    What exactly did you disconnect?

    Reconnect everything as it should be.

    If you are getting an incorrect Low Fuel warning then you can temporarily disconnect just the Pink fuel sender wire in the electrical box to make the warning go away.

    An incorrect Low Fuel warning is typically cased by the fuel float no longer floating. Click my signature links to learn how to fix the problem properly.

    Is your MFD display otherwise working properly?

  3. #3
    Everything is hooked back up where it goes. Not sure if this ski goes into limp mode because of the low fuel sensor. If it does what are the signs that it is in limp mode? Would this fuse it to only fire off of one cylinder? I will disconnect the pink fuel sensor wire and see if there are any changes. Thanks for the help and I will keep you updated.

    Jon

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jons1050 View Post
    ... Not sure if this ski goes into limp mode because of the low fuel sensor.

    ... what are the signs that it is in limp mode? ...
    I think your 1998 SLTX only invokes RPM limiting for engine overheat, not Low Fuel or Low Oil.

    When RPM limiting is active the MFD display should show HOT and the CDI ignition to all cylinders will limit engine RPM to a maximum of 4500RPM.

    Below 4500RPM the engine will run smoothly. Attempts to rev above 4500RPM it cause the ignition to cycle rapidly and feel like it is low on power.

    There is a Tan terminal group on the electrical board. It will have a Tan wire coming from the CDI, and another coming from the temp sensor on the engine. A third Tan wire leads to the MFD display. Unplug the Tan wire that goes into the CDI module to disable the 4500RPM RPM limiting.

    ---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:33 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by jons1050 View Post
    I bought the ski from a guy who said that he rebuilt the engine after the oil pump went out and the motor was fried.

    I have had the ski for a few weeks now and the first time I took it out it seemed to be running fine and then it bogged down and died. then it would not get over 35 mph and about 4500 rpms...
    Well, the 4500 RPM suggest it s related to RPM limiting, but that could just be a coincidence.

    Does this engine have the original ignition system or the Updated Ignition Kit? See my signature links for how to tell which you have, and how to test.

  5. #5
    thester71's Avatar
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    I would guess it is the original ignition, and it is on it's way out!

  6. #6
    I disconnected the pink wire from the fuel sending unit just to check of there was any changes and now when I start it the only thing that happens is the engine just makes a loud click. I thought it might be the battery because I have been starting it so often to check different things. I replaced the battery and it is still just making one loud click. It will not turn over. I don't know if it is the starter or not. I am in the process of updating the ingnition. Just wondering if the original ingintion would cause it to do this.
    Thanks again for all your help guys.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Is all the wiring in place, or are some things currently disconnected?

    The click is probably the Start solenoid (relay) inside the electric box. It may have failed, OR the motor may be seized.

    Carefully use pliers or screwdriver to short the two heavy terminals on the solenoid, where the heavy red cables attach. There will be sparks, so be prepared. Use a firm hand to minimize the sparking. Do not allow the tool to touch anything but those two terminals, especially not the shell of the electrical box or the engine.

    If the engine cranks as soon as you short those heavy terminals, then the solenoid is bad.

    if the engine still doesn't crank, either the starter motor itself has a problem or the engine is stuck.

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