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  1. #1
    Now this is an appropriate speed limit sign. dragon129's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    New Bern, North Kakalak

    Angry Cylinder stud torque?

    Holy crap. I know I'm an idiot and I obviously can't read because I have looked all around the manual on my 98 SLXH 1050 and cannot find a specific torque for the cylinder studs. Can someone point out to me in the manual where that is? Is there a torque? I have them so tight now that I can see only about 4 threads and you can't get the base nuts on with 4 threads showing. This is bad.....

  2. #2
    I don't think you torque the studs....pretty sure torque is made on the stud when you torque the jug nut down.

    Think about it...there's no bearing surface to even achieve torque're just bottoming the stud in the case and eventually you'll probably just put it right through the bottom of the case.

  3. #3
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Mt. Zion Illinois
    The only thing I see in the manual is 35 - 40 ft lbs of torque on the base nuts. I don't see specs for stud torque.

    Why were the studs removed at all? Is it possible you're installing the studs upside down?

    Also, don't forget to lightly tighten the exhaust manifold to the cylinders before the torque the base nuts. This is critical on the domestic engines to ensure proper alignment.


  4. #4
    Now this is an appropriate speed limit sign. dragon129's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    New Bern, North Kakalak
    I agree, there's nothing of note to torque to but being in aviation, there's a torque for everything and I'm used to having that. Because it does state to locktite the studs, there's a very slight chance that the locktite on the base nuts and the cylinder studs could vibrate loose. Of course, that chance is so slight, I would probably win the lottery before that happened but there is still a chance. It's good to know that I looked everywhere in the manual for a torque and by the responses, there is none. I'll just tighten the studs and move on.

    Oh yeah, the studs came off when I was taking the cylinders off to change the pistons. It was a chore getting the nuts off the studs when I pulled them out, but I got it done. The corrosion on top of the studs led me to knowing what arrangement they needed to be in. Good call though because the threads are longer on one side. Thanks for the help guys.

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