Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1

    Rxp rideplate with skegs

    Selling my mint condition 06 RXP ride plate with Jims cut and welded skegs



    PM me all offers......Be fair lol lol



    ItzMunch


  2. #2
    Why selling that plate? dont like it's gains? what are you choosing to replace it with?

  3. #3
    Luv the plate !!! got 1.5 -2mph, I had one with skegs and one without. The plate without the skegs is on the ski, this one was on my shelf since last year......



    Jims plate on anything is the way to go !!!!!

  4. #4
    Considering Jim's cut on the plate, what did you do about the way it "rocked" when you mocked it up? In other words, with his cut, it makes the rear of the plate mount closer to the hull ---> this makes the front edge point down lower away from the hull.....and when you push on the front and rear ends, it rocks - with the center portion acting as the pivot point.

    Did you notice this? and what did you do about it when you mounted these plates?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
    Considering Jim's cut on the plate, what did you do about the way it "rocked" when you mocked it up? In other words, with his cut, it makes the rear of the plate mount closer to the hull ---> this makes the front edge point down lower away from the hull.....and when you push on the front and rear ends, it rocks - with the center portion acting as the pivot point.

    Did you notice this? and what did you do about it when you mounted these plates?
    blkturbo - the fact that you may have experienced rocking with other ride plates is interesting to me. I've never heard of this, but certainly I'm not an expert. I'm in the process of milling my own plate now. It will NOT be as effective as Jim's or the Speedf but we've tested it on a friend's ski and the concept works. As you are aware, when people mod the plate it is most often to reduce or eliminate the "belly" in the oem plates (way over simplified). In order to do so, you would shave the plate down several mm's to whatever proprietary angle you want. The back side of the plate (one that mounts against the hull) is most often never touched with few exceptions. Therefore, the plate still fits flush against the bottom of the hull as it did from the factory. Also, as you may recall, the plate is held on by 6 13mm screws through the plate into the hull as well as two connector fittings in the hull (might be slight differences between open and closed cooling - mine is closed loop). Many people often choose to silicone the hell out of plate when it matches up against the hull to reduce leaks and maintain an even foundation. If you choose to get creative and shave the sides of the plate down slightly to "lift" the ride plate, this can easily be remedied by shaving the back most screw threads down from the back side of the plate. This should ensure a tight fit without rocking. I hope this helps. PM me if you're interested more.

    Regards,

    Paul

  6. #6
    Itzmunch:

    What do you think?? Im trying to figure this out against my own jims plate. (and free bump!)
    thanks

  7. #7
    If you have a plate from Jim on your ski, like me and all others we se gains from 1.5 - 2+ mph. I have had no handling issues and I have both plates from Jim one with skegs and one without. The one im selling is the one with the skegs and on my ski that plate made my ski turn on a dime !!! I chose the one without skegs just so my ski would glide on hard turns instead of the snap....if you know what I mean


    ItzMunch

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
    Considering Jim's cut on the plate, what did you do about the way it "rocked" when you mocked it up? In other words, with his cut, it makes the rear of the plate mount closer to the hull ---> this makes the front edge point down lower away from the hull.....and when you push on the front and rear ends, it rocks - with the center portion acting as the pivot point.

    Did you notice this? and what did you do about it when you mounted these plates?
    bump

  9. #9
    with the plate installed properly it should not move at all......... the sealant and bolts make it firm to the bottom of the hull

  10. #10
    [QUOTE=blkturbo!;1671364]
    ...the way it "rocked" when you mocked it up?...QUOTE]


    Mocked it up....as in, before you actually bolt/mount/seal it up for good.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. FS Jims Closed Loop Rideplate with Welded Skegs
    By 8 is enough in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-21-2011, 11:58 AM
  2. FS Riva RXP rideplate with heat exchanger for closed loop
    By caliburst in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 12-07-2009, 11:57 PM
  3. FS RXP Ride PLate with Skegs
    By WannabeGoing80 in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-13-2009, 08:05 PM
  4. FS: Jims Rideplate with Skegs.
    By Water4fire in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-13-2008, 08:00 AM
  5. Shim or No Shim with RXP Rideplate
    By yellow4 in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 07-22-2007, 05:44 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •