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  1. #1
    JPR's Avatar
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    GTI Turbo open CC build

    building a new race ski for myself, build may change through out but the following is what going so far !

    06 block decked with new sleeves
    Remapped 8800 ecu
    walbro fuel pump
    OEM copper sprayed head gasket with a prayer said before installing !
    lightened OEM rods
    Rotax racing 4224 cam
    Rotax racing lightened fly wheel
    Rotax racing lightened cam gear
    lightened and balanced crank- seadoo center
    lightened OEM valves- seadoo center
    light weight retainers - seadoo center
    oil pressure mod
    custom trim tabs
    custom seat
    black finish top and bottom deck
    lightened internal cup grinded hull
    rxp ride plate, pump shoe and
    worx rxp grate
    set back pump
    xs intercooler
    modded intake manifold.
    exhaust headers TBA
    UMI stering
    custom air box
    open loop cooling

    any tips and comments welcome !
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    Last edited by JPR; 09-21-2011 at 05:20 AM.


  2. #2
    JPR's Avatar
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    got the GTI stripped inside tonight..going to split the decks tomorrow and start grinding !
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  3. #3
    Can u tell me what the oil pressure mod is?

  4. #4
    JPR's Avatar
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    I'm upgrading the oil jet in the head and may add a squirter to the SC gear area.

  5. #5
    Everthing louder than everything else! sHALlow's Avatar
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    you got some money in this ski bro, never ridden a gti or followed about them, whats the benefit with this hull, im guessing it has to do with weight?

  6. #6
    cigarlust's Avatar
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    The GTI hulls are pretty light, they make good CC boats if you set them up right, sounds like tha man has a plan...

  7. #7
    JPR's Avatar
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    The gti handles well in the choppy conditions and stays hooked up. the down side is the top speed as there hard to get in the 80`s but for cc in a smaller coarse its perfect.

  8. #8
    JPR's Avatar
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    so got back on cutting the Hull in half today.
    removed some of the inner liner and buoyancy from the lower hull.
    I`m going to glass up from the existing lining back to the hull and reinforce the front engine mount area then do something to hold the buoyancy foam back in place.
    next step after that will be to cup grind the internal upper deck and give the lower a light grind....
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  9. #9
    Sayers's Avatar
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    Nice work.

    What fuel you planning on running?

    Why you using SDC for the balance and lightening work? Why not a machine shop up north?

  10. #10
    JPR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sayers View Post
    Nice work.

    What fuel you planning on running?

    Why you using SDC for the balance and lightening work? Why not a machine shop up north?
    hey Sayers
    I don`t really feel confident using another machine shop to do the work, Les has lightened a heap of these so best go with the guy that has worked on that specific crank and rods and knows the weight ratio.
    That and I have been buying gear from them for years to my personal craft and others so I like to keep returning the favor as Les and John have helped me a lot over the past few years as have a lot of others...
    I should change my avitar too as I have been living at Noosa on the sunny coast for the past year now not up north
    fuel I think I will still be safe in the 98 octane range but will have to wait and see if I get any pinging. I am going to look for another ECU to remap to 9000 that I will change out for racing over the 8650 rotax ECU, as this will be more for practice etc.
    I have a spare pump in storage I think so as I can simply change the pump (with a pitched prop),fuel (if needed) and ecu to suit different conditions....
    its all a new game with the hi comp pistons to me so just have to play it out and see how hot it gets

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