Thread: Ultra 150 STILL leaking...
04-24-2011, 11:37 PM #1
Ultra 150 STILL leaking...
Ok, so I've replaced my carrier bearing seal one time and it's leaking again. Well, the ski is still filling with water when it's ridden, doesn't seem to leak much when it's just sitting in the water. But it's bad enough that the PTO coupler is sloshing it around and it's getting thrown into the PTO carb again... I'm having to wrap a towl around the rear of the motor to keep it from injesting water that's being sloshed around. All three motor mounts LOOK fine, how can I tell if the motor is lined up properly? I have no alignment tool, is there another procedure I can follow? If the motor was not lined up just right, could the water actually be coming around the driveshaft itself and not the rubber seal part? I just resealed it again, it lasted for a couple hours and it's leaking again, not as bad as before yet but still. I've got to get this fixed, comtemplating buying a brand new carrier bearing seal and try again but there has to be a right way to do this and it's getting frustrating!
04-25-2011, 06:48 AM #2
So, you replaced the bearings and seals in the carrier, correct? Perhaps you have a split in the bearing holder itself. Or you may have broken engine mounts. Unless the engine has moved, you can't tell if the mounts are good by looking at them, you have to try to move the engine.
04-25-2011, 07:27 AM #3
JC, i went through this with one of mine. You can actually tell if the motor is lined up correctly by the way the coupler lines up. I had to put up some pics and someone brought it to my attention that the coupler didn't look right. I still haven't figured out how to post pics but email me and i can send you what it looks like when it's wrong. it actually looks right, but it's not. I found one of my motor mounts to be bad and i had to remove them one by one and inspect to find it. if you just replaced the bearings you really need to check the complete holder. email address is firstname.lastname@example.org
04-25-2011, 11:36 AM #4
I replaced the whole bearing carrier with a good used one from another ski when I did my top end.... for the first 10 hours or so it did not leak at all, but then it started to slowly and now it leaks bad again. My motor was loose from the mounts when I did the top end, so it could be mis-aligned. So how can I tell if it is misaligned or not again? I think that might be the whole problem. When it's bolted to the mounts, it's tight with no movement, and when running I remember it has very little vibration, I will try and check the mounts again?
Got to get this fixed before the PTO carb injests water again from it sloshing around and being picked up and thrown about by the PTO coupler.
04-25-2011, 06:14 PM #5
You can put a shim under each engine mount, put the coupling together, then put glue on the driveshaft holder and bolt it in place. That way, the coupler will be aligned and the bearing will then be aligned with the shaft. If you have to lower the engine for some reason, you can remove the shims.
04-25-2011, 10:02 PM #6
Sorry Steve, I don't follow... on the shims part... were you taking to me or another poster? How will I know what type of shim and the thickness etc, how will I know, raising the motor will align it up, I'm just a tad confused by your post I'm hoping a followup will clear it up. Before it ever started leaking, it had no shims so I guess I'm confused as to why adding them would correct my current situation.
I will note, that I did seal it up and bolt them down and torque them both times I've tried sealing the seal with silicone, perhaps I just pressed all the silicone out and there was not much seal left... but I'm unsure if it is coming from the rubber housing or the inner bearing seals? I've examined the housing itself and there appear to be no cracks on the outside, it is in good shape. The water comes in most of all at WOT. I also bolted it up with the engine in place and torqued down, perhaps I need to loosen the three motor mount bolts, line everything up again, apply silicone and hand tighten the bolts but wait til it cures before I torque them down?
I'm open to any suggestions... what about windshield urethane vs silicone, anybody had better luck? I'm just wanting it to S T O P leaking before this messes up the whole riding season. I'd love to know where it EXACTLY is coming from in regards to the bearing carrier, but at WOT I can't look at it long enough and the exhaust pipe is in the way it's really hard to tell. By that time the PTO is also picking the sloshing water up and spitting it around making it impossible to tell.
Perhaps if someone could break down the exact procedure for sealing up that housing and aligning everything again, on a step by step that would be great and give me the confidence to try and reseal it once more.
---------- Post added at 11:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 PM ----------
Email sent... looking at the driveshaft entering the coupler, it is so close to my eye at being centered I can't really tell... I hope there is another way
04-25-2011, 10:11 PM #7
The shims are stainless, from Kawasaki. You don't have to use them, I was just suggesting that you do so you could be able to raise or lower the engine in the future if you need to. I would not use urethane adhesive because it's too difficult to remove in the future.
With the engine bolted in place, and the jet pump bolted in place, and the bearing loose; it will align itself. You're right about the possibility of squeezing the sealant out. Usually, I snug the mounting screws, but don't tighten them quite all the way until the sealant is cured.
Hope this makes more sense.
04-26-2011, 05:03 PM #8
It makes a lot more sense thanks steve! I was thinking how the shims would guarantee alignment...
Well, engine and jet pump was bolted in place when I secured the bearing coupler... so I guess it is aligned is there an easy way to check for sure?
I'm not sure what else to do at this point... except try again with the silicone, and not tighten the bolts up all the way until it cures. Can I take measurements to make sure the engine is aligned? The rear two mounts, seem like they have no play, they are contoured inwared so the engine can't shift... the front has play left to right... is that a correct assumption? When I did it the first time, I just unbolted the engine from the mounts, the bolts going into the hull I did not touch.
And again, it did not leak for the first few hours, it just started again all of the sudden!
04-26-2011, 09:58 PM #9
Stand above it and look at it to make sure the crank and driveshaft appear straight. Make sure the couplers fit together 'smoothly' and one isn't above the other or to the side of the other. I think the book recommends laying a straight edge across them to check alignment. Also, remove the spark plugs, ground the plug wires, and try cranking the engine through a few revolutions and see if there is anything unusual.
Pull hard on all three corners of the engine to check the mounts! I'm still suspicious of those.
04-26-2011, 10:24 PM #10
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