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  1. #1
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    01 virage 700 stator??

    I'm trying to troubleshoot a no spark issue on a 01 Virage 700 domestic twin. When I ohm the grey hall effect wire to black I get 1 ohm. Red and green are open. I also read about 8 volts on red and green while cranking but nothing on grey. Is the stator bad or do I need to do more testing?


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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Um, how are you doing the testing?

    All stator wires unplugged from electrical box for ohm testing the stator. Black to Gray should be open circuit.

    8 volt power for testing the Hall effect sensors is NOT applied to red and green wires. 8 volt power normally comes from the CDI on the Brown wire.

    Testing info can be found from this page;
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....omestic-engine

    BTW, number one reason for no spark is a weak battery. Make sure the battery is delivering more than 10.6 volts while cranking.

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    Battery delivering 11.8 while cranking wires hooked up while cranking shows 7-8 volts on red & green nothing on grey. Unhooked for ohms testing shows open on red and green and 1 ohm on grey. Makes me think grey is shorted to ground??

    Nevermind, I was just thinking I might have hooked the connector back up to check for spark while in the middle of testing. I'll check it again tonight. But I guess if grey is the negative side of the hall effect than it probably wouldn't have voltage while cranking.

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    Gray wire from the stator is effectively grounded at the CDI. Brown is 8 volt power from CDI to Hall Effect sensors.

    Red and Green will briefly pulse to gray (low ohms to gray) as engine rotates. The Hall Effect testing is done not by cranking the engine with the starter, but by hand turning the engine crank shaft to watch for the Hall Effect sensor changing resistance as the trigger magnet on the flywheel passes by.

    All testing of the Hall Effect sensors must be done with the correct voltage polarities.

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    Ok, just checked everything out again. All looks good except I have no resistance at all between brown and grey stator wires. I'm assuming since this is open and it should be >100k ohms that a coil is blown = bad stator right??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Ok, just checked everything out again. All looks good except I have no resistance at all between brown and grey stator wires. I'm assuming since this is open and it should be >100k ohms that a coil is blown = bad stator right??
    Brown and gray are the power feed wires for the electronic Hall Effect sensors in the stator. No coils in the CDI trigger portion of the stator.

    The Hall Effect sensors are tested as outlined in the technical info, with 9 volt battery power applied to Brown (positive) and Gray, and ohm-meter monitoring of Gray to Green and Gray to Red as the crank shaft is rotated.

    If this test passes, then the Hall Effect sensors are working.

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    I meant the copper wound coil on the stator. Nothing happens at all with the battery test so I'm assuming the copper must be burnt and broken at some point on the windings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    I meant the copper wound coil on the stator. Nothing happens at all with the battery test so I'm assuming the copper must be burnt and broken at some point on the windings.
    Gray and Brown wires don't connect to a coil in the stator.

    If you followed the documented test procedure for the Hall Effect sensors and paid attention to the polarity of the ohm-meter connections and the 9 volt battery connections and carefully turned the crank shaft by hand while watching for sudden changes in ohm reading, then it is possible the stator has a problem.

    Hall Effect sensors do sometimes fail, but often only one will fail and the other will test correctly. That is why I want to verify that the testing was done exactly correctly.

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    I'll do the battery test again tomorrow paying close attention to my test leads. I'm guessing I'll pull the stator and find a huge burnt spot from a massive failure.

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    Allright, apparently my test leads weren't quite small enough to touch the metal in the little connector. I ended up just shoving the tips through the backside with the rubber. Showing open while turning the crank with 9v battery attached then jumps to 106 ohms then back to open on red and green both. And the cdi IS putting about 8 volts to the stator. So....is the CDI bad?? Kill switch is also good and I checked for spark with the blk/yel unhooked also. All grounds are also good and still no spark with the bilge button pressed. Bilge does run.

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