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  1. #1

    Newbie From iowa Reverse question

    Just got my first jetski, and have a stupid question... do all jetskis have reverse? looked high and low for any sort of reverse button/lever with no luck. Its a 94 Polaris SL 750

    looking for a manual for it too to read up about what I need to know...what else do I need to know?

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Welcome to the Hulk

    Reverse is easy to check - do you have a reverse bucket attached to the rear end of the jet pump?

    Not all models came with Reverse.

    What else do you need to know? Click my signature links and start reading

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Cleveland OH
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    The SL 750 didn't come stock with reverse, but could be added.

    If you did have it, there would be a rather large lever on the right side of the hull.

    Click on the links at the bottom of K447 posts for all the info you should ever need. ^^^^^^

  4. #4
    So another rookie question... Do you just push it off the trailer then?

    I read through his sig... lots of usefull info! going to do as it say this week

  5. #5
    Yes....that sl is small and light enough to just slide off the trailer when you back it on the water fast enough.

    I normally back in until I see the stern just starting to float up....but it varies with the steepness of the ramp.

    Sent from my HTC Evo using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    MicahN's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Usually (If you have someone setting on the ski) you just unhook it from the trailer and back it into the water until it floats of the trailer on it's own. A light push should be all you need to get it away from the trailer.

    Sounds like you are new to riding. You will need to probably watch an experienced rider load up their ski before you try to trailer yours. I've seen many new riders get scared and cut power before they get lined up only to drift into the trailer rails and damage the hull!

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    Arrow PWC launch ramp and re-load process

    Quote Originally Posted by wannagofast83 View Post
    So another rookie question... Do you just push it off the trailer then?...
    Launching and re-loading your PWC onto the trailer is a learned skill.

    There are a number of variations depending on the trailer, the ramp slope, the bunk material, and so on.

    Here is how we do it.

    Note: This doesn't cover what happens before you leave home, nor the ins and outs of trailering.

    Prepare for launch
    Park trailer away from ramp, and prepare for launch. Do NOT do this pre-ride process right on the ramp. Leave the ramp clear for others until you are fully ready to launch.

    Remove straps from rear of hull. On my trailer I find it works well to unwind the winch about 1 turn and re-latch the handle. This allows the hull to move around as needed when it begins to float.

    Check everything
    Check the hull drain plugs - in place and tight.

    Remove seat and sniff for fuel fumes. Look around for anything that may need attention, is out of place, etc.

    Think about anything you may have worked on or adjusted since you were last on the water. Has all work been completed and re-tightened up?

    Remove front storage bucket and visually check fuel and oil tank levels. Never rely only on the display gauge. Look for any signs of oil or fuel leakage. Check both filler caps for tightness.

    Put the storage bucket back, and confirm that all the safety gear is in place. Ropes, flashlight, air horn, collapsible paddle, VHF radio, etc. Develop a comprehensive list of stuff to have with you, and check before you leave the house.

    Visually check jet pump. Grab the movable nozzles and make sure nothing is loose or out of place. Cycle the reverse lever and steering while watching the pump.

    Look the hull over for anything unusual. Now is a good time to re-check that the hull drain plugs are in place and tight. Always check the drain plugs twice. Even better, make sure both of you check the drain plugs.

    Prepare for launch
    Attach the docking lines that you will use during launch and to tie to the dock. Make sure they won't get in the way, or dangle and possibly float under the hull.

    Put the lanyard in and start the engine. Watch the engine for unusual motion or anything unexpected. After idling for about 10 seconds, burp the throttle to confirm the engine is responsive, then shut it down. All done in under 20 seconds.

    If you have two PWC, prepare both the same way. Develop a routine so you won't forget or skip something.

    Now get yourself ready. Riding gear, spare lanyard, ID, money, etc.

    Share the knowledge
    If you have a riding partner, teach them the entire launch routine including pre-check. A second set of eyes will see things that you may have missed. And with both of you knowing how it is done it will go much more smoothly.

    In fact, go further and make sure that either of you could do the entire process without the other person being there.

    Check the ramp area
    Walk to the ramp and look around. Any floating debris or junk and the ramp that might cause trouble. Sucking up a plastic bag or stick into the jet pump right after launching is no way to start your ride.

    Look for where you will tie off after launching while the trailer is parked and secured.

    When ramp is clear, back trailer down until the rear of the hulls just begins to float. With practice you will know when the trailer is in the water 'just enough'.

    Often the trailer needs to be just a little deeper during launch that reloading. This makes it easier to float off from the trailer bunks.

    Normally we do not start the PWC engine until after we have floated off the trailer (and only if needed to get to the dock area). With the tow vehicle in Park and emergency brake set on the ramp, the driver can get out and assist or perform the launch solo.

    If the vehicle exhaust pipe is deeply submerged then you might want to leave the engine idling to limit how much water runs up the exhaust pipe. Most of the time this is unnecessary, and it is nicer to launch without the exhaust fumes and noise. Makes it easier to talk to others who may be helping.

    Release the winch tension and unclip the strap from the ski after it is in the water. Some guys depend on the friction of the hull on the bunks to hold the ski while they back down the ramp. I think that is risky and unnecessary.

    Now you can slide the ski off the bunks and float towards the dock. Sometimes just getting on the ski is enough to get it moving. Or push it back while you are standing beside the ski, then float it to the dock.

    If you need to start the engine always clip the lanyard to yourself before starting the engine. I keep mine clipped to my PFD so it is always with me, not the ski.

    Note: Clip a lanyard to the PFD of your passenger too. If something happens and they need to operate the ski (perhaps you fall off or get hurt) they can. BTW, always take the time to explain the basic operation of the PWC before taking a new passenger out on the water.

    With the PWC tied to the dock and out of the way of the next boat that will be launching go park and secure your vehicle.

    When you come back, look down into the water and look for anything that might cause trouble. Shallow rocks, sticks, plastic trash. Also look around at where you will be going when you leave the dock. Look for traffic patterns, boats coming in or launching nearby, even swimmers and fishermen (fishing line can be a pain to remove from around your drive shaft).

    Now you can get on, and prepare to depart. You may want to peak under the seat and confirm no water is leaking in. Make sure the seat is fully latched down.

    Prepare to leave the dock
    I usually remove and stow all docking lines, or leave them tied to the dock (if it is a private dock). Push off from the dock, turn the steering if needed to get you turned, and start the engine.

    If you have a well behaved engine it should start promptly, since you warmed it up a little before launching. Idle away from the dock, and pay attention to where you are going. This is not the time to be messing around with the glove box or otherwise tidying up. That should be done before you pushed off.

    Enjoy your ride!

    Returning to the ramp
    Decide whether you need a dock rope ready before you get near the dock. If the water is calm you can float up to the dock and then pull out the ropes. Otherwise pause well before you get to the dock and prepare the dock line.

    Make sure you don't stop in the way of other boat traffic. If you have a riding partner, make sure both of you know how you will be doing things. Make sure the dock line doesn't drag in the water where it could get into trouble.

    Approach the dock, shut down the engine and tie off. I tend to approach the dock roughly straight on, then use an S pattern at idle speed and kill the engine so that the hull rotates and slides sideways up to the dock. Take some practice, but no need for reverse, and no engine noise while reaching for the dock. This is when others on the dock may offer help and it is nice to be able to speak with them.

    Make sure you ski is out of the way of others using the ramp, then go get your trailer.

    Loading onto the trailer
    Back the trailer down the ramp until the bunks are submerged just enough. After some practice you will know how much water you need around the bunks.

    What you want is enough water to allow the hull to slide over the bunks, but still have enough friction to hold the hull in place once it is all the way up the bunks.

    Idle speed works well
    What we do is idle in and run the hull straight up between the bunks. At idle speed you will have to use larger steering motions to make directional changes. Sometimes you might need to apply a very small burst of throttle to get the steering to respond faster, but in general you want to use minimal power.

    If there is a water current, figure out which direction it is going and how fast. Aim a little upstream of your bunk target, then turn at the last moment to come straight in in line with the bunks.

    Tip: If you are new you might want to find somewhere on the lake where you can practice low speed steering. Perhaps a small rubber buoy or plastic bottle tied to an anchor. Learn how your PWC steers at low speed. The steering will seem delayed, and after you steer straight ahead the hull will continue to rotate, so prepare for that.

    So now you are running the hull up between the bunks, straight in. If you have the trailer at just the right depth, the hull will contact the bunks and slow down or stop before touching the bow roller on the trailer. Apply just a bit of throttle to push the hull up the bunks. With practice you will find you can park the hull nicely against the bow roller with the hull properly centered in the bunks.

    Secure the PWC to the trailer before pulling up the ramp
    If the hull is not sitting properly on the bunks, get off and wiggle it into position. If you are wildly out of position, push it back off, go out and do it again (you need the practice).

    Friction with the bunks should hold the hull in place while you or your partner attaches the winch strap and snugs the hull to the bow roller on the trailer. Load up the other PWC the same way.

    Do not depend on bunk friction to hold the ski on the trailer while you pull the trailer up the ramp.

    Pull the trailer well away from the launch ramp and other boaters and park.

    Post ride checklist
    Check under each seat for signs of excess water in the hull. Do this before you pull the drain plugs. If there is water, make a note of how much, and whether there are signs of water spray high up in the hull or on the bottom of the seat.

    Also look for anything in there that may have come loose, shifted or doesn't look right.

    Remove the drain plugs and note how much water comes out. Should NOT be much. With practice you will know if there is more water in there than normal.

    Clear out the exhaust
    Start each engine, and burp the throttle firmly a few times. Don't hold it WOT, just quickly squeeze and release. Each RPM burst will blow water out of the exhaust system. Do this just a few times until the volume of water begins to subside, then shut down the engine.

    Tip: Make sure nobody is standing behind the trailer - the jet pump and exhaust may throw a spray of water when you burp the throttle.

    Note: MSX 110 and MSX 150 must be put into reverse before starting the engine out of the water. This prevents RPM runaway with the turbo Weber engine.

    Now that the excess water is out of the exhaust and water box, and the engine is shut down, you can tidy up and prepare for the trip home.

    Strap the hull to the trailer
    Remove and stow the dock lines, lanyard (it should be attached to your PFD anyways). Tighten the bow with the winch, then strap down the rear of the hull to the trailer. Also attach a safety strap from the trailer to the bow eye in case the winch strap releases.

    You want the hull firmly held to the bunks so when the trailer bounces down the road the hull does not shift around. Use good quality straps. I prefer ratchet straps over cam lock straps.

    Check the hull on the bunks
    If you are new to all this, evaluate how the hull sits on the bunks. You want the bunk boards to be positioned along the flats of the hull, not be pressing on the ridges (chines). If the bunks are out of position for your hull, consider relaunching and adjusting the bunks. Put the drain plugs back in first

    Walk around and check everything
    Check for loose items in the glove box, footwells, or left behind on the dock. Make sure nothing is left hanging from the trailer (wet shoes, ropes, straps, towels).

    Also check the trailer coupler and chains. Make sure nobody has messed with the hitch pins and latches. Trailer lights are plugged in and the license plate is still attached?

    Start the tow vehicle and do a trailer light check. If there is someone to help, this takes a few seconds to complete. Also eyeball the trailer tires for any signs of tire softness or damage from the ramp.

    Ready to depart
    Take it easy on the drive home and enjoy thinking about your time on the water today

    Here are some informative PWC video segments from SBT
    (Windows Media format WVX)
    Note that some of this information may be slightly out of date, and some details may not be directly applicable to Polaris PWC.


    Pre-Launch Checklist

    Launching - How to do it well

  8. #8
    Thanks for the tips everybody!!! We have a boat so I am use to trailering and unloading them, but I am sure that there are somethings that I am going to have to get use to on the smaller PWC.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Cedar Rapids,Iowa
    Where you at in Iowa, and were do you normally boat. I'm in Center Point.

  10. #10
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Keith, That was amazing! Wow.... Well anyways, after you have absorbed all that.

    your idle should be around 1350 rpms. over that is too fast and you'll get yelled at by the coast guard for making a wake.. the right rpm for idle is very important. Never ski up your trailer while the ski is running. thats illegal in michigan. dangerous too. Thats called power loading.. dont get caught! lol

    if you come in too fast, do a 360 while idling and get another shot at it. that will slow you down just be sure you can do that with sufficient space with noone around you.

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