Thread: stator pump rebuild
11-26-2006, 10:25 AM #1
stator pump rebuild
has anyone rebuilt the jet pump? is it easy? are there any tricks to taking it apart? I have a slt750 can i do this or should i have it done?
11-26-2006, 10:32 AM #2
Look in the tech section it has been covered. Also search for stator bearings I posted the part #s.
And Welcome to the HULK
11-26-2006, 10:54 AM #3
Many Thanks for Info & welcome
Glad to be a part of the community!!
11-26-2006, 01:33 PM #4
i searched and found the DIY for the pump rebuild, but i have some questions about it beer. How do you get the old bearings out? just break them? or should they come loose? also, when reinstalling the new ones, should i put the bearings on the shaft first then slide that whole assembly into the pump, or should the shaft be put in the pump, then the bearings? thanks for the input.
11-26-2006, 01:52 PM #5
From The tech section
SL750(& others)Pump Bearing & Seals Replacement Instructions
’95 SL 750, How to Do, a Jet Pump Bearing/Seal Replacement
Replacing the bearings and seals is pretty straight forward job if you have the proper tools.
After removing the pump assy from the ski, disassemble far enough to get the rear cone off. Put it in a vise, and using the special tool (about $10.00) remove the impeller, (cc/w).
You can now punch out the bearings and seals by using about a 6-8 inch long punch (using a good size hammer). There is ample room to move the spacer around, it seems easier to go through the middle of it vs. the side of it (Clymer) to drive them out.
Next de-grease and clean up the housing.
Put housing in an oven for about 45 minutes that was pre-heated to 212 degrees F.
While this is heating, put the bearings in a freezer for about the same length of time.
Now it is ready to assemble. The bearings will almost slide in with hand pressure; you might have to nudge with a hammer/socket (pushing on the outer race). Don’t forget to install the spacer.
When both bearings are in, let it cool for a while. Insert the first forward seal (socket/hammer on out side edges of seal) pack marine grease in the cavity (between the seals) and install the next seal.
Installing the impeller requires the special tool(same one used for the removal) and a torque wrench that go to 100 foot-pounds.
Assemble the rest with all new seals.
Total cost for this project was around $100.00(using all Polaris seals/bearings)
Last edited by ph2ocraft; 12-01-2006 at 04:03 PM.
11-26-2006, 02:00 PM #6
11-26-2006, 02:09 PM #7
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
Be sure to measure the impeller to the housing clearance. There are various opinions on this but mine(SL750)was about .025 with my old impeller and now .018 with a "new" used one. I did not replace the housing when replacing the bearings.
Performance is alittle better. So be advised, if clearance is too large, pump will cavitate, and ski won't go.....
Check the specifications for your ski
12-01-2006, 12:39 PM #8
I just have to add this.
If you don't feel like putting your stator in the oven, set the thing under a halogen lamp!! You would not believe how well it works!.
12-01-2006, 02:08 PM #9
12-01-2006, 04:34 PM #10
That sound alot more civilized than the torch that I usually use
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By scorp in forum Polaris How To & FAQsReplies: 6Last Post: 05-03-2009, 09:43 PM
By Oktavius in forum Yamaha Old School SkisReplies: 1Last Post: 06-06-2007, 08:36 PM
By Hoovermaneuver in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 9Last Post: 06-04-2007, 11:23 PM
By sweetcoupe in forum Polaris Open DiscussionReplies: 9Last Post: 05-23-2007, 04:04 PM
By gorilla03 in forum Polaris How To & FAQsReplies: 25Last Post: 02-05-2007, 11:47 PM