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  1. #1

    96 SLT 700 running issues

    Hi – new to the forum, and in need of help!
    We just purchased a96 SLT 700 that was supposed to be “non-running”. Previous owner took it out of water a few years ago b/c it was “cutting out” on the water, had a shop look at it and they did some work on it (not sure exactly what) but it came back to them and they could not get it started.
    Engine and carbs looked clean, some new gaskets present and a compression check of 120 on both cylinders, we changed out the old fuel and fired it up. Apparently, someone got crazy w/ the fogging oil b/c there was a ton of it – ski ran very rough – plugs getting fouled from the oil.
    Did a lake test this past weekend and here’s what happened;
    Would not idle but you could work it up to wot and it ran across the lake like a champ.
    Got the high temp warning buzzer twice for a short period – pulled to shore and heads and exhaust felt ok.
    Finally it starting really running great, no issues and idled perfect - pulled plugs and perfect tan color.
    Did several more runs across lake and all of a sudden started losing power to where ski would not take any more than ˝ throttle, let off throttle and she would die. Start back up and same thing over and over until it wouldn’t start any more and had to get towed back in by a Yamaha.
    Sat on shore for a while and loaded on trailer – started right up to blow out water w/ no problem.

    This ski has the old ignition in it - should I just bite the bullet and put the new one in and see what happens? The cutting out definitely seems like an electrical issue – like a bad cdi - let me know some thoughts! Thanks!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    It does sound like the Ignition System Update Kit is the fix. It may be the stator that is failing when it gets warmed up.

    Do re-check compression. More importantly, check the piston wash pattern. Piston wash is a more reliable indication of proper air-fuel ratio than spark plug reading. You can find more info through my signature links.

    High temp warning needs investigating. Pull the thermostat housing off and check for clogs or stuck parts. Also check the small plastic mesh screen that is inside the jet pump nozzle. It needs to be clean and clear.

    In fact, now would a good time to pull the jet pump off and check it over. The shop may not have done anything with the jet pump since they were chasing an engine problem. Again, more info in my links below.

  3. #3
    Thanks - I've done a lot of reading already through your signature links - outstanding info!

    What exactly happens when the stator heats up that causes problems and what was the reason for them putting out a new ignition (was is more cdi or stator related??).

    Also, should have mentioned that the electrical box has a fair share of rust/corrosion on most connections - but again, the ski ran like a champ for at least a 1/2 hour once the fog oil burned off - no bog or anything.

    Where is the thermostat housing and where is the plastic screen in the jet nozzle that i should check? BTW, the only wire that has been noticeable cut and spliced is the brown going to the temp sensor - so maybe its bad and they were chasing that too, or maybe they replaced it - I don't know....

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Consider replacing that terminal board if it is corroded, and replace the temp sensor. neither are very expensive.

    You really want the electrical system to be 100% reliable. Makes for less hassles and strange problems going forward.

    Answers to the other questions can be found through those links, the Tech sections on Greenhulk, and searching.

  5. #5
    Found out the flywheel key sheared off, so that's a lot of my problem right there. Also, anyone have any good ideas on digging out the pieces of metal left in the slots on the shaft and on the flywheel itself??
    Thanks!

  6. #6
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raptorobbie View Post
    Found out the flywheel key sheared off, so that's a lot of my problem right there. Also, anyone have any good ideas on digging out the pieces of metal left in the slots on the shaft and on the flywheel itself??
    Thanks!
    A narrow cold chisel, lightly tapped with a hammer will help to remove the bits of key left in the slot.

    If the crank mating surface of the flywheel is jacked, I would not reuse it. Contact John Zigler to see if he has a good used one.

    KJ

  7. #7
    Thanks KJ - the bits and pieces came right out w/ a cold chisel - my screwdrivers weren't strong enough.

    Will a woodruff key from another brand ski/motor work or do I have to order the stock one from Polaris??

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raptorobbie View Post
    ... Will a woodruff key from another brand ski/motor work or do I have to order the stock one from Polaris??
    Do not use a woodruff key meant for a lawnmower or other low power engine.

    The Polaris keys are stronger metal than the cheap generic ones. The cheap ones will shear and fail.
    Last edited by K447; 05-24-2011 at 09:34 AM.

  9. #9
    I hear that about the lawnmower keys!! Any chance a Yamaha woodruff key works? I have a Yamaha shop 5min from my office. I know for atv's some of them cross over - just wondering if its the same in the pwc world.

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    OK got the key, now doing ignition upgrade kit. How do you make the new plug wires fit into the electrical box (what does the threaded connector piece thread onto?). thanks!

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