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Thread: Seized 04 XLT?

  1. #1

    Seized 04 XLT?

    My 04 XLT 1200 seized a few weeks ago and I finally got the chance to start to tear her down. I'd like to get your opinions about what happened. The ski is pretty stock. I've added a D-plate with chip, wave-eater clips, ride plate, intake grate, pump plug kit and solas impeller. Ski has 250 hours on the clock. I rebuilt the carbs with kits from SBT over a year ago. I did not drill out the high and low speed adjusters. The ski ran fine all last summer and got probably 40+ hours of hard use. We use it for long rides and pulling kids on the tube. When she seized we were about 4 miles from home and running somewhere in the mid to low 30's. My son was driving so I'm not sure of the exact speed. It then cut off. I cranked her up and she seized.

    Compression was 20, 110, 110. The only damage I've found so far is a small scoring of the cylinder wall of #1. This is where the screwdriver is pointing. I can be felt with a finger tip, but its not terribly deep. It appears to be where the ring gap is on the piston. I also found what appears to be oil mixed with water in my PV housings.

    My take is that I'm running lean in #1 and it gets richer as I get to #3. Is this a correct assessment? With the recent rebuild, I don't think my internal filters would be clogged and all the oil lines are present and where they are supposed to be. I understand the XLT/GPR carbs are lean from the factory. Would this cause a seizure after 250 hours of use?

    Any input is greatly appreciated. Right now I'm struggling with selling the ski as is and moving to an FX HO vs. fixing it and hoping I get it right.

    Along those lines, what would it take to fix this ski? Thanks.
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  2. #2

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Central Coast California.
    Posts
    42
    Looks like you got off easy, if you look at my post "2003 XLT Help" I had the same thing happen but lost the entire engine when #1 went. Have you ever had that engine rebuilt? 250 hours is quite a few without any work. Might be time to rebuild the crank and freshen up the cylinders. Mine had some oil in the mag cover so I think the front crank seal was leaking and the fuel filter in #1 carb had some varnish on it. Your #1 looks dry so it probably was a little lean. I am not sure on the PV but it should not look like that, I am sure the experts will have some ideas. I would fix yours. Crank is $591 from Yamaha and Mellinium Technologies will replate the cylinders for less than $200 each. I would think for under $1500 you could have a like new engine. Not too bad when you consider the price of the 4 strokes.

  3. #3
    on cyl 2 and 3 i can still see the OEM cross hatching. will they need to be replated as well?

  4. #4
    Ouch those PV look nasty, you've gotten water in there somehow, in the photo it looks all rusty! better strip her down and see what you find

  5. #5
    agreed. bizarre. all i can figure is i didn't have the covers on tight enough.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Central Coast California.
    Posts
    42
    You will have to have the bores measured to see if they are still within spec. If they are they can be lightly honed and Pro-X and Yamaha make replacement pistons that are slightly different sizes to fit the variences in the OEM bores. you should be ok but I would double check. If in doubt sent them to one of the replating shops and they will be able to let you know if they are good to go.

    On the PV's the covers should be ok, check the shaft seals. The only othe place it could have come from is the exhaust port and up the valve shaft. How do the exhaust manifold and port look?

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