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  1. #1
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    Hopefully purchasing my first sea-doo tommorrow! 96 xp 800

    Ok, this thread was on the 2-stroke section, but I thought maybe it belonged here. I think I have made my final decision, I am going to get this ski as far as it stands now. Here is the auction link.. the seller did not sell it... but I talked with him, and he's going to sell it for the beginning price plus $100 for the trailer (not pictured)

    Here is the auction:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=130049676312

    This thing looks to be in great shape, and it is less than 15 miles from my house. As you can see, he's on the lake, so I will be able to do a lake test. There is a problem that he notes though.. doesn't seem to affect it's driveablity that much, but still something that I will need to fix/have fixed.. and I quote:

    "This ski runs great and is very fast. But it does have an electrical problem. It will bog down on you out of no where about every 5- 10 minutes. But only for a second and then right back to normal. I dont really know exactly what it is."

    What do you guys think? Per my other thread, someone said they thought it might be a bad rectifier? According to the seller, it is only momentary and lasts only a second or two. Does it sound like something simple coming from you sea doo owners? I have not experienced anything like this with my polaris... I don't want a lemon!

    Now, what should I ask the seller, find out before I buy the ski?

    I know to check the VTS make sure the trim is functioning, correct?

    And to make sure all the gauges etc work...

    I want to make as little mistakes as possible, and again, I do not want to purchase a 1200 basket case/lemon!

    I currently own a polaris sl780.. I know a little about polaris now having owned and enjoyed this ski for several months.. but I know nothing about sea doos...

    1) are they oil injected, or pre-mix?
    2) they can run on regular unleaded gas, or best to run on premium? Good gas mileage? Better performance on premium?
    3) I read somewhere that they tend to start becoming unreliable once you start modding them, is this true? (there seemed to be some divergence from the xp's though as they have a different engine..? RAVE?)
    4) do they have a visible pisser, like the yami's?

    *** If I get it and I hope I will... I will start asking about performance mods soon!***

    ANYTHING else I should know before I make this leap sometime tommorrow?

    I hear that the xp is supposed to be a reliable machine, and i have also heard somewhere that in 96 this model ski was the fastest production PWC in 96.. is that true? My polaris has a hard time maintaining 50mph... I'm hoping to make this one go 60 safely without risking reliablilty in the making...

    I look forward to you guy's responses and future chatting as a new sea doo owner!

    Jared


  2. #2

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    I love those boats. That's the one with the bigger cc engine. I don't know about the electrical stuff. You should get more responses soon about this boat. They are fast and reliable if you check them after every ride. Good luck.

  3. #3
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    Come on guys somebody's got to have looked at this... I'm going to be needing some quick help, lol. I have 24 hours to return it for a refund.. after that I'm on my own. What the ski is doing... it seems like it's hitting a rev limiter.. like a sorta "limp mode" if any of you have polaris you'll know what I mean... it definatly is electrical.. and both the seller and I suspect it has something to do with the VTS trim which currently is not functioning. If you tap the vts switch (under the start/stop switch).. it fixes the problem, but it inevitably goes back. Does seadoo have like a safe mode where when there's a problem it will only allow the ski to run a certain RPM's? Is there a way to disable it like with polaris to see if it's the problem?

    My next question is about the 2 cycle oil.. the owner says he only ever used the xp2 or something of the like brand 2 cycle oil.. i want to convert it to use pennsoil fully synthetic tcwIII oil... is that possible? (I want to be able to use a good oil, but is easier to find locally)

    That is if I decide to keep it.. I still have not decided whether I want to mess with fixing it if it will cost a lot... I need input on what to try! I'm going to take it out tommorrow for a test drive...

    Thanks,
    Jared

  4. #4

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    I've ridden those boats and loved them, but have no knowledge of their problems, Sorry.

  5. #5
    800AMSOIL4U's Avatar
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    You need to use an API TC Synthetic Oil in that engine due to the Power Valves. You can use the AMSOIL Interceptor oil.
    http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=367509&page=storefront/ait
    Also clean off the Power Valves if you decide to purchase the ski. That way you know for sure they will not be sticking. I hope this information helps.

    It is recommended wherever JASO FC or API TC two-cycle oils are specified. INTERCEPTOR is a premium quality replacement for recreational equipment manufacturers' branded two-cycle oils. It is compatible with most mineral and synthetic two-cycle oils, however, for best performance, mixing oils should be minimized.
    400,000 Miles of Severe Snowmobile Field testing With No Deposit Buildup, Power Valve Sticking, Ring Sticking or Engine Failures.
    Subjected to adverse field testing conditions in the Rocky Mountains, including long trail rides, high RPM powder riding and steep hill climbs, AMSOIL INTERCEPTOR demonstrated superior wear protection and outstanding deposit control.
    No carbon deposits are detectable in the functioning region of the exhaust power valves, resulting in "no stick" performance, continuous valve operation and reduced maintenance.Pistons show no scoring, little or no wear and no heavy deposits, and wrist pins show no discoloration from heat. In fact, the original machine markings on the pistons are still visible.Cylinder head is clean with no deposits, preventing pre-ignition problems.
    Last edited by 800AMSOIL4U; 11-28-2006 at 01:44 PM. Reason: spelling

  6. #6
    I'm kind of a big deal SeanCucf's Avatar
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    NEVER use TCW3 outboard or other ashless types of 2 stroke oil......as per Sea Doo.

  7. #7
    BigT's Avatar
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    1) are they oil injected, or pre-mix?
    2) they can run on regular unleaded gas, or best to run on premium? Good gas mileage? Better performance on premium?
    3) I read somewhere that they tend to start becoming unreliable once you start modding them, is this true? (there seemed to be some divergence from the xp's though as they have a different engine..? RAVE?)
    4) do they have a visible pisser, like the yami's?

    As far as oil injection or premix, ask the owner, he should know if he has the injector blocked off, do not use twc 3 oils!
    regular fuel is fine,
    You definately need to pull the raves and clean them good, makes a big difference in performance, depending on how long ago they have been cleaned.
    I think the pisser is the same as GSX, back of the ski, should see a fine stream, the more rpms, the stronger the stream.
    As far as the VTS, if you think its causing the problem, set your trim to center, then open the VTS box, unplug it, also make sure it doesnt have water in it, this might be your problem also then run it and see if it makes a difference, if the motor is bad, they are relatively cheap to fix, check ebay.
    1200 bucks is a good price IMO, those are a blast to ride, and you should be able to hit 60, or close to it, with a few non expensive mods. (couple hundred bucks) I added a Aquavein intake to one of my GSXs, couple mphs on topend, not to mention pulled harder outa the hole. also, 100 bucks for a trailer, go for it BigT

  8. #8
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    Guys, you are not going to believe how simple this was to fix.. It was not the rectifier! Someone pulled and cleaned the fuel/water seperator, and did not put the rubber gasket back in! Over time it devolped a gas leak there and under load, pulled in air! I noticed today when I took it out first,that if I pumped the primer it would go fine. So I started inspecting the fuel lines and found the problem. It runs GREAT now!

    However there are some minor concerns that I would like to address:

    The impeller seems to be grazing the side of the pump housing pretty good, makes alot of clanking when out of water.. there is also lots of rattles, and such with the ski when it is running... is there a greece zerk for the driveshaft?

    What is the regular maintenence I should perform with this ski? I know with my polaris, it was just greese the driveshaft zerk often, and properly winterize, and blow out the water in the ski's cooling system when you pull it out of the water, that was about it.

    Oh yeah, the pump comes unloaded bad when you first start off, bad hookup, but it catches up with itself real quick.. would a top loader style intake grate and ride performance ride plate fix this? Is it normal?

    Other than that, she starts right up, makes a little noise as described above.. but she's running just under 60 now!

    Anything I should need to know to keep her this way, PLEASE let me know!

    Where do you guys get your oil locally, is it something that you can get at walmart? They do have other types of synthetic 2 cycle oils other than TCWIII oil.. like they have one brand Quicksilver PWC oil.. .it says PWC on it.. unsure of what it's rated.

    I want an oil brand that is going to be easy to get as the do burn oil, and need frequent replacement!

    Jared

  9. #9
    BigT's Avatar
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    The impeller seems to be grazing the side of the pump housing pretty good, makes alot of clanking when out of water.. there is also lots of rattles, and such with the ski when it is running... is there a greece zerk for the driveshaft?


    Jcc, yes, they make alot of noise, but your impeller shouldnt be hitting the wear ring, post in the 2 stroke section about it, they helped me out alot , also look in the post I had for gsx cavitation, your ski is very similar to mine, as far as the engine and stuff. You need to remove the cover over the driveshaft, to get to the grease zirt, dont over grease it.just enough to see the boot move a little
    you need a good quality synthetic oil, if you cant get the xp2 which is very high dollar, use the amsoil interceptor, you should be able to find it at most of your atv,motor cycle dealers or shops. about 30 bucks a gallon.
    You need to inspect your impeller and wear ring. That is more then likey your problem on takeoff. you shouldnt have cavitation, unless your trim is all the way up, even then , shouldnt be too bad. First thing i would do , is get a cd manual for your xp off ebay . It will help you alot.

  10. #10
    785xp's Avatar
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    Jared, glad you found the problem. That is point number 8 I had in the post I gave you for problems.

    http://www.sea-doo.net/board/thread....d=85188#849874

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