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  1. #1

    I am a Newbie in need of direction!!!

    Hello all,

    I recently purchased a 97 sl 1050 in decent shape. The boat sat for 3 yrs and I am now in the process of getting it to run. My problem is that other than the carbs being rebuilt and needing a new battery, I dont know what to do next. Here are my questions. I bought the carb rebuilding kit--should I do this myself or take it to somebody who dose this for a living? I took the cyl heads off and the pistons look good-no holes. The cyl have a little oxidation build up on them from sitting. Most of it wiped off but some is stuborn--should I get them rehoned or will they clean themsleves on start up? I am in the process of replacing all of the lines fuel and water. Fuel is drained. What else should I do or look for while I have the carbs, intake, and cyl heads off? Any info would be greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    As there's rust on cylinder, just for a piece of mind, I would start the complete overhaul process. I don't want there's rust on the crankshaft especially the bearings. They won't last long in 6000+ rpm.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    Click my signature links for more should-do info.

    You may want to replace or rebuild the fuel selector valve. And check the fuel filler cap and neck for cracks or bad sealing.

    Hard to say what is needed regarding the cylinder wall rusting without seeing them.

    More important is the condition of the crank assembly. Even a little rust on the crank shaft or connecting rod bearings can result in very short engine life (hours, minutes or seconds).

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timfd024 View Post
    Hello all,

    Here are my questions. I bought the carb rebuilding kit--should I do this myself or take it to somebody who dose this for a living?


    That depends on you. If you have the time, tools and want to save money... then yes do it yourself. by the way, there arent many if any mechanics that support polaris watercraft. so your basically the mechanic on it..

    I took the cyl heads off and the pistons look good-no holes.

    Well thats a bonus..


    The cyl have a little oxidation build up on them from sitting.

    Hpw much we talking? a totally rusty cylinder? or just a couple spots.. hi it wd-40 and and cloth. se what happens.

    Most of it wiped off but some is stuborn--should I get them rehoned or will they clean themsleves on start up?

    Hmmm.. what I would do is, take some 600 grit and cross hatch the inside of the cylinder lightly to remove any spots. just lightly. lots of oil too.. then clean it up and dont worry about it. if its still real ugly looking, a fresh hone would do wonders along with new rings if all else is good. if the crank is rusty, your hit,, time for a rebuld,, 250.00

    I am in the process of replacing all of the lines fuel and water.

    Good deal..

    Fuel is drained.

    Excellent.. What else should I do or look for while I have the carbs, intake, and cyl heads off? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
    The carbs are probably gummed up from sitting. are the pistons black? clean? 50/50? thats will tell us a lot right there.

    Might as well check the starter connection and clean it if you can get to it.. you'll want to pop open the e-box and check for corrosion in there on the termionals. tight connections, kinda go thru it and see what goes where.. look for the main ground and check that its tight. note where fuses are located and possibly buy a couple spares. hard to find at a marina when 1 blows.

    Use a AGM absorbed glass mat battery. they hold up to jetski conditions and last.. no hydrogen leaks either.

    you can check your needles and seats in your carbs so you know if they seat correctly.. assume nothing is right on your ski and go from there..

    Take note of the jet sizes so you have reference to what your running in your motor. write it under your hood so you have it handy.

    change any gas filters too. buy new plugs. gap them correctly. cut back your ignition wires a 1/4" if you suspect misfiring or do it for prevention of such. up to you. they just unscrew at the cap. easy enough.

    check the size impellor you have. check the pump wear ring clearence to the impellor. you may have to take the pump off to do that if you choose to do it. grease your thru hull bearing.

    clean negative mounting area on engine plate for good ground and check both sides of the wire.

    double check that the engine bolts are tight under the cradle into the motor. if loose, tighten them. might be hard to get to even check.. wiggle engine,, mounts tight?

    throttle plates open all the way in sync once the carbs are back on? no binding? oil injection installed back on if your using it? Just a few ideas...

  5. #5
    The rust is pretty light on the cyl wall. Depending on how the crank looks I will prob take your advice with the 600grit and oil route. If the crank has any signs of rust I will go with a overhaul or sbt motor-which would you recommend? Thanks for the info I plan on taking the engine out and cleaning everything and taking all you have recommended into account. I have been soaking the carbs for a day and I have still not been able to get the butterflies to break loose--any tips of the carb issue?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Is the carb rack off the engine?

    Have you separated the carbs from the rack?

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