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  1. #1

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    2000 virage 700 starting issue

    I have rebuilt a 2000 virage 700 single carb model. Yesterday finally got everthing back together, hit the start button and nothing. Brand new battery fully charged. Can jump across the solenoid and motor spins. I am only getting about 7 volts at the start/stop switch that feeds voltage to the solenoid and also 7 volt at the two wires that actuate the solenoid. Not sure if this voltage to the plugged in wires to the solenoid should be 12 and why they are not, another words will the starter solenoid work with less than 12 volts.
    Again this is the wires that acuate the solenoid not the wire coming from the battery and out to the starter. Have not tried the lr bypass yet, trying to figure out what everyone suggests.
    Thanks for all the help in the past, Any Suggestions


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    7 volts TO the Start/Stop switch? Should be full battery voltage to the switch on Red/Purple (same wire that feeds Bilge button).

    When switch is pressed, full battery voltage goes to Yellow/Red wire at solenoid. Other side of solenoid is grounded through LR module.

    Check voltage at the Reset Button (each side). Pres Bilge button while measuring voltage. If voltage drops more one one side than the other, the Reset Button may be bad.

    Also check battery voltage at heavy battery stud on solenoid while running bilge pump. A poor connection anywhere between battery post and the thin Red wire can cause problems.

  3. #3

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    I measured the voltage at the actual switch on the handle bars, took the switch apart and measured each of the two terminals to a good ground one was zero one was 7.6 volts.
    Voltage is good on both sides of the circuit breaker. Bilge pump not working when the button is depressed (verified that pump is good by hooking up to good 12 volt, spin free and quite). If I get this right the bilge pump is suppose to run all the time if the engine is running. The button is for when the engine is not running IE tied up to the dock. I will check to see what voltage I am getting at the bilge pump when depressing button. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Also just to verify from my original post I measure 7.6 at the connector to the Solenoid also smae as at the start/stop button on the handle bar

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubadw View Post
    ... I measure 7.6 at the connector to the Solenoid also same as at the start/stop button on the handle bar
    Start at the battery positive post, with meter Black probe connected to engine cylinder head bolt. What is the voltage? Should be about 12.5 volts. If not, problem is in the Black battery ground connection to the engine, one end or the other.

    Keep Black meter probe on the engine. Move red probe to each of the following. When voltage is lower than previous measurement, you have found the problem.
    - Red battery cable end at battery
    - Red battery cable end at solenoid
    - Solenoid stud
    - Thin red wire at Reset Button
    - Red/Purple wire at Reset Button
    - Red/Purple wire at terminal board
    - Red/Purple wires at each interconnection (possible corroded or weak connector)

    Somewhere along the way the voltage is crossing a poor, loose or damaged connection.

    You are correct regarding Bilge pump operation. There is no harm in pressing Bilge button when engine is running, as Bilge pump should already be running with engine.

  5. #5

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    Thanks will do the tests mentioned and report back

  6. #6

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    UPDATE
    Ok I have done all the above tests and still have not found a short.
    Did the lr-505 bypass and still no crank even with the bilge pump button pressed.
    interesting thing that I found was like i said before with the lanyard in place i only get 7.6 volts at the switch on the handle bars and to the yellow/red wire at the starter solenoid when the start button is depressed, however when the button is not depressed I'm still getting 7.6 at the y/r wire at the solenoid. I'm thinking that I am just going to replace the lr-505 does anyone know of a good place to get one or maybe Ziggler has a good used one. I have attached a pic of my electrical box. Not sure what going on but the wiring diagram from the srevice manul does not match what is in the ebox. I bought the ski for $150.00 knowing that I was going to rebuild the motor and update everything. Ski is showroom clean and I have spent alot of money redoing basically everthing with the help of this site. Just need to figure out this last gremlin and I will have a almost brand new machine.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You are not looking for a short circuit. I think you are looking for a bad connection.

    Did you do the voltage tracing I outlined?

    Somewhere along the way the battery 12 volts turns into 7.x volts. You just need to find out where.

    No electrical box photos.

    BTW, what are the last two digits on the HIN number plate?

  8. #8

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    K447 you the man

    Fixed !!!! I was sure it was the lr-505 module. But I did what you told me and traced out all the red/purple wires. Noticed that two r/p wires leave the ebox going to the handle bar area, yet there are three r/p connections in the area, one to mfi was working good, one to bilge button which was not working and one to the start/stop switch which was also not working. So I knew that there had to be one to two splice somewhere and sure enough
    pulled the wiring harness out the front compartment hatch peeled back the black protection cover and corroded splice. Cut wires back soldered back together shrink wrapped and shes purring like a kitten. Can't wait to drop it in the water on friday. Of course I will have to go thru the break in procedure before I can have some real fun. Thanks for everything this site is fantastic.
    Tim

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