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  1. #1

    MFI display on a SL780 handle bars.

    Just wanted to show how I mounted a MFI display on my SL.

    I have not seen anyone mounting this way and wanted to let everyone know that it will work, the center bar on the handlebars is touching the display but it is not causing any problems.

    First I followed the wiring info on the Polaris PWC Knowledge page.
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....nction-display

    Then I made a cardboard template that matched what the MFI requires.
    I traced the pattern onto the handlebar foam and cut it out about 1/4" inside the line and then slowly cut the rest out with many trial fits until I got a tight press in fit. I used an electric carving knife, easier to take many small cuts with.
    I do not use anything to hold it in except the tight fit of the foam, so far it has held very well.
    Was amazed at how well it fits the shape of the foam, there is a gap around the foam and the display face plate, it's not visible in this photo but it is noticeable when sitting on the ski.

    Rich


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Did you add the wiring for the MFI security/locking feature?

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    WFO 4 LIFE nitrosportman's Avatar
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    do want

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    I did wire it up for the security lock when I did mine. I was going to make a spacer to mount behind the MFI to cover the gap. I just tried that recently with a bad handlebar pad I have laying around here. The last pic is of how I mounted mine in the dash panel. That worked out great as well, but was a lot more work.

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  5. #5
    I did not set up the security code, not sure I want to.
    Bryan, my foam looks just like your without the display, your mount in the dash panel is just awsome!
    I just wanted to get it up and running ASAP and choose the handlebar pad, I really like it up higher it is easier to read at speed.
    Also I am using the dash panel to mount my GPS.
    The gap I ended up with was not as big as Bryan's, I am thinking of filling in with some silicone or something similar .



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    Have you run yours with the MFI in it yet? I just ran mine the first time this weekend, and the speedo is way off. Sometimes reading 7 or 8 MPH at idle. It said my SL 650 topped out at 53.4 MPH. I tried to GPS it with my phone but I couldn't read the screen in the bright light. I'm guessing it was about 4 MPH fast

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Have you run yours with the MFI in it yet? I just ran mine the first time this weekend, and the speedo is way off. Sometimes reading 7 or 8 MPH at idle. It said my SL 650 topped out at 53.4 MPH. I tried to GPS it with my phone but I couldn't read the screen in the bright light. I'm guessing it was about 4 MPH fast
    The different MFD and MFI displays are calibrated for different hull models. Swapping displays to a different hull design (with a different shaped intake tunnel) can result in less accurate speed readings. Different intake grates will also affect the speedometer accuracy.

    Not that the original MFD speed readings are 100% accurate to begin with

    There were a bunch of different MFD models, with a number of different speed calibrations. MFD speed calibrations are not user adjustable.

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    Is it possible to put a restrictor in the line to the speedo pickup to try and "trick" the MFI? Possibly calibrating it?


    I could have pushed the display in farther, but I was concerned about it touching the crossbar on the handlebar

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Is it possible to put a restrictor in the line to the speedo pickup to try and "trick" the MFI? Possibly calibrating it? ...
    The speedometer pitot system works on pressure levels, not flow, so a simple in-line restrictor orifice won't improve the speedometer accuracy.

    You could possibly bleed some pitot pressure off using a tee feeding a restrictor feeding an overboard pisser. I think it would take a lot of messing around to get the result any less inaccurate than what you have now.

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    hmmmmm Im thinking some sort of adjustable bleeder valve..............so you can get it dead on........Sounds like a new challenge for me I think I just thought of the perfect thing. A remote needle valve kit like I used on my RC airplanes.........I will try it and post updates.

    Something like this.......
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG924&P=7

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