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  1. #1

    stx1100 di engine full of water

    stx 1100 di engine is full of water. pulled plugs and cranked over. bunch of water keeps shooting out of cylinders. do i just keep cranking till no more water comes out then put in new plugs should be ok?? what should i do? thanks!!

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Make sure you ground the spark plug wires and continue cranking. Dry off the plugs, re-install, and try to start it. You may have to do this several times before it will stay running.

    You MUST DO THIS NOW!!!! Waiting until tomorrow will likely result in rust forming in the bearings and cylinders, i.e. the engine will be toast.

    Once you get it started, run it in the water, if possible. If not, run it on the hose for 20 minutes or so to dry it out.

  3. #3
    well i got new plugs comming. would it be a good idea to fogg the motor?

  4. #4
    You are fighting against the time/rusting!!!
    See if you can clean/reuse your old plugs and fire up the engine ASAP to get every single drop of moisture out of the engine. You need to get the engine going and run it ASAP. Don't need to ride in water. Just run it on your trailer.

  5. #5
    i found where my leak is.its comming where the driveshaft comes into the hull. theres a rubber tube around a aluminum pipe. looks like its leaking by the silicone. whats the best kind to use on something like this? can i get it at a hardware store?

  6. #6
    That's the very common place to leak on this model with many hours. What might have happened is that the aluminum pipe (drive shaft tunnel) has unglued/detached from the hull. You need to get that pipe picece re-bonded or fiberglassed (better) to the hull for good.

  7. #7
    how did the water get into your engine??, was it all the way sunk?>?> as in, water up to the intake box??? the shaft shoe repair can be epoxied back in place, but you might want to consider paying a professional to do the job, remove the ecu platform with a saw, grind out all the foam and crap, then encapsulate in fiberglass the entire aluminum flange and shaft horn up to the seal / bearing. the weight added is negligible, money might be a little more, but durability, it should be fixed forever. if you are handy, once engine is back running... you fog it for winter and take out of the compartment. this repair job is easier if you do it with the ski standing up vertical against a wall.

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