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  1. #1
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Everything you didn't want to know about your sl 750 and now you do. or almost..

    I made a small list of things every sl 750 owner should know or at least be aware of.. Add to the list if you have something to add to it!. I'm sure there's way more than whats here. Just wanted to pass on the knowledge base.

    These are things I hear asked all the time on here

    Get an AGM battery-(Absorbed Glass Mat) they handle the harsh conditions of the water and vibration.

    Check engine is bolted to cradle

    Good ground connection on Cradle


    Compression check-write down values on under hood. they should be within 5% of each other. 10% it will still run.. anything more and you have issues..


    Thermostat and bypass valve taken out unless your in super cold water..


    Auto-cok removed from the fuel system as per beerdarts diagram.


    Triple outlet fuel pump installed


    Beerdarts Fuel line routing used


    Use NGK=BPR8ES type plugs


    Let it be known you have to take the blue limiter caps off the high speed screws before adjusting to specs.


    Black gook coming out the exhaust pipe is ok at first start.. its just leftover water, 2-stroke oil and gas mixed up coming out of the baffles in the muffler. any more than that and you have issues.


    That clear tube laying in the hull near the coupler is for the pitot tube...aka..the speedometer pickup. it goes to the pitot tube and to the back of the MFD--aka the multi-function gauge.


    Always check your siphon hose screens on the 2 clear tubes in the back of the hull. they get dirty real fast.


    Check your screen located in the big exhaust pipe for debris. its where the small hose is connected.


    look in the e-box and see if anything is loose, corroded, not connected or maybe even missing.

    when taking the carbs off finally.. be careful with the oil pump clips that connect the rod to the pump and carb, they can snap off pretty easily. watch the orientation of the rod too.

    Take pics of what your doing or video. helps later on when your alone wrenching it back together.

    Keep spare fuses--1/2 amp ones for the e=box fuse in there.. hard to find at a store near a lake.

    Rebuild all 3 carbs and use genuine mikini rebuld kits. the others are junk.

    Replace all your fuel lines including the gas tanks if so equipped.

    Check your gas cap inside the ski for cracks.


    Check the water separators black cap for cracking around the edges..they are brittle.


    Replace both fuel filters in your fuel system.

    If your riding and it doesn't feel right or sound right, don't make it work.. come in and lets investigate before more issues arise.

    water is never suppose to be in the hull. period.. if you have water intrusion, narrow it down and fix it immediately.. nothing like sinking out in the lake.. check big o-ring that attaches pump to hull, your thru-hull seals are bad, steering cable is leaking,water inlet hose fell off inside the ski, hole in hull,siphon hoses fell off,trim motor is not seated and leaking,,maybe 1 more.. cant think of it off hand..


    Make sure your battery is strapped down with 2 straps.. jumping waves can cause it to jump around


    Clean out your gas tank!


    Clean out your oil tank!


    when taking off the carbs, use a 10 mm stubby for the mounting bolts! nothing else works.


    There are different lines that go onto the oil pump. they have 3 mm inside id and a 7 mm od. they are a special thickness. buy accordingly.

    Check your piston wash with either a boroscope,a small flashlight or take the heads off.. always check after any rebulding, carb adjustment or just so you know where your at. very important!!!!

    Always torque heads in a star pattern using the 3- torque tightening sequences..
    8 ,13 ,18 ft-lbs

    your impellor should be tight to the wear ring. if not, check it with a feeler gauge after the pump is off the ski.

    Always check your intake and ride plate bolts. if either one comes off at speed, your going for a ride..

    You should be able to touch the cylinders after a run. they will be warm, but not scorching hot evaporating water off them. thats a a good clue somethings wrong.

    150 F. is about as hot as it will get..

    If you see oil in the hull STOP! your oil line/lines just fell off.

    No power loading onto the trailer,, it produces wash that undercuts the concrete launch and wrecks it eventually. just being courteous to others.

    If you see steam coming come under the seat, you have cooling issues, stop immediately and investigate..Been there, seen it,,Now thats hot!..lol


    Yes, your 2-stroke will smoke like hell during start up after winter and first fire everytime launching.. unless already warm. you should see smoke all the time while running. at least a lil. it usually calms down after a few mins.. depends on how rich your mixing and whether or not your using pre-mix or the pump in the ski..

    Use tie wraps on your gas lines, just be wary in real hot climates that they will give-way at some point, they cant take the heat of arizonia very well. oiteker clamps are a great replacement..


    If breaking in a new motor, run premix and use the oil pump delivery system for the first tank.. that insures the oil pump is fully primed before running just the pump. And you can see usage by the pump to be sure its working.


    Your sl should do about 50 on the gauge and about 48-49 gps..


    6300 is max on a 750sl rpm wise..


    Read up on the updates for your ski.. theres a few that you may need.

    if the red light comes on on the MFD> STOP! and see whats up. dont cruise it to the dock then check.. too late them you fried it...

    A racing or ocean op rideplate will get rid of the porpoising the sl is known for.. the ocean plate will slow you down about 2-3 mph..

    A 650sl R and D grate is the grate of choice for being planted on the water and keeping the top speed up still

    Change your needlle bearing grease fitting to a zerk fitting. much easier to find the right tip. the other is impossible to find at a marina...just watch it, it will stick out more as it turns and could catch ya..

    The polaris "rattle" is normal. they all do it.. grease your driveshaft and it will quiet down a lil but will still be there somewhat. it will be LOUD out of the water so dont worry, your fine..

    Yes, the ski will rev high for a few seconds upon starting on the trailer. its ok, it will calm down in a min.

    Idle should be around 1350 rpms. NO wake..

    Grease or spray your throttle and steering cables..

    Never run your ski more than 15-20 with no water running thru it..the seals on the driveshaft will get smoked.

    If running water thru the intake hose.. its engine on,water on,water off, engine off.

    Never more than 2-3 mins running with the hose.. theres no reason to run it like that.. just don't..

    Theres a wire on the e=box to snip to get 200 more rpms, but im not telling ya..lol

    If ever dumping gas down the carbs to make it start,, remember to use some 2-stroke oil in the mix, not straight gas..

    Write down your main jet,and pilot jets numbers and write them on the underneath part of the hood so you have them handy.

    Check the condition of the stator bearings.

    to balance out your trim motor if its not acting right,, hit the button up all the way, then down, then back to center. thats how it centers itself out.

    Check the condition of the vanes on the stator for chips, being bent,or missing, that will slow you down.

    Find out what prop your running. its stanped on the impellor .. nice to know what your running...

    Always let the engine warm up prior to going WOT forever... the engines pistons need to to expand and match the cylinder temps.

    Make sure that 1 small black wire coming from the e-box is connected to the batter along with the negative cable..its a must have.

    Always have your battery plastic cover over your battery before the cdi goes on top and gets strapped down.

    Connect your lanyard to your vest, if you fall off, it goes with you instead of being on the ski..

    Bring a spare lanyard with you.. keep it on the ski so someone else can take your ski to shore for you in case of an acceident and they cant find yours..

    You must have at least 10.6 or higher volts when cranking the engine. otherwise replace it...

    Make sure your inlet screen on the pump nozzle is there and not broken or missing. its very important for the water flow..

    A battery maintainer is what you want to use to keep your battery fully charged. it only comes on when it needs too. the others burn the battery up.

    When replacing the pulse line. make sure its 12 inches or less.

    Check the fuel selector o-ring for being hard, broken or brittle, replace as necessary.

    Mainteneace is a must for this ski. otherwise your just waiting for a accident to happen..


    Different altitudes from different parts of the country require different jetting settings.. be aware of that if you get a ski from a hot climate or high altitude area. you could fry your machine in mere mins..

    Bring a buddy with ya if testing, if something goes wrong, he's there to tow you in..

    Tie the ski to the dock and run it, not on the trailer... just my opinion here.. water doesn't seem to keep some of the holes cool on the trailer and can lead to misleading diagnosis's.

    If anything is wrong, correct me.. If you have anything to add. post it along with this post.

    Lastly,, Ride more, Worry less! Hope this helps out a newb!, there seems to be tons of new guys with sl's on here.maybe polaris is making an underground comeback!

    Phew, time for a Beer!

    OK Keith, whats the 1 thing I didn't ADD. I was waiting for you..lol


  2. #2
    Banned User
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    Ocean Pro ocean plate only slowed me down 1 MPH or less......and a much better ride

  3. #3
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    nice

  4. #4
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polaris_Nut#1 View Post
    nice
    Not really.......


    He does have some of it right, but there are a number of wrong things with this post. (I got timed out trying to correct all the BS info)

  5. #5
    750sl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    Theres a wire on the e=box to snip to get 200 more rpms, but im not telling ya..lol

    Which wire?

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 750sl View Post
    Which wire?
    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    Make sure that 1 small black wire coming from the e-box is connected to the battery along with the negative cable..its a must have.
    My guess is this one ^^^^^^^^^^^ LOL!!!!!

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    My guess is this one ^^^^^^^^^^^ LOL!!!!!


    When I have some time I might go through this list and clean it up.

    In the meantime, always be careful with the information you find on the Internet (yes, even on Greenhulk, and even the stuff I post).


  8. #8
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Yeah I just read through it quick. It's a nice effort. The only thing that immediately caught my eye last nite was the wrong spark plugs but I had to double check before saying something. It should be BPR7ES or BR8ES for the 750. The first is the projection tip plug that came from the factor the second is a acceptable replacement. I don't bother mentioning Champions cause I won't put them in my lawn mower. Oh and the wire thing I think he is confusing cut the wire on the 780 cdi my guess anyway.

  9. #9
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 750sl View Post
    Which wire?
    Thanks Polaris nut..
    Watercraft
    1995-1994 POLARIS SL 750 750
    Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Plug Gap Photo Standard
    BPR7ES
    5534
    .028


    It is a BPR7ES .. from the chart here.. I have run BPR8ES all the time. no problems myself. The 8's are cooler.. So yes, duly noted,, BP8ES is what ya want correct? I'll stick with my BPR8ES. those work good for me..you mean i've been running the wrong plugs for 10 years and it didn't blow up? lol

    Kevin,, whats BS? I think its all great info for a newbie just learning about thier new ski..

    I asked to correct me If I'm wrong on anything.. just trying to help out the newbs that dont know all this stuff.


    That 1 small black wire from the E-box is the ground for the box correct? Just want to make sure before I post it.. Thanks .. Thats usually the wire that fries when you put the CDI box on top of the battery with no plastic. cover..


    So looks like Bryan has the "real" number for lost speed with the plate. it's only 1 mph.. thats way different from Iv'e read on here.

    Thanks Bryan and Nut for the updates!

    And don't always make the manual, the bible, it has been shown to be wrong too. typo's, updated material .ete,,,

  10. #10
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    How about a pic of this single black wire coming out of the elec box????

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