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  1. #1

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    SLH electrical question

    I have a 2000 SLH with no spark. So far I have checked the battery, kill switch, and I have done the red/purple CDI wire update, still no spark. Now I am on to testing the coil. Going from the manual I have done the end of plug wire to the engine stud continuity test, and I get nothing. I believe it to be open. The manual states that if the plug wires show open then I need to open the box and check the coil ground path. So is this done by putting one lead from the meter on one of the connectors (black/white wire) that comes out of the coil and goes to the CDI, and the other one on an engine stud? When I did this it showed an ohmic connection. Am I doing this correct? Thanks for the help. Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The Gen III ignition coil for two cylinder engines is different than for three cylinder engines.

    Your ignition coil is NOT grounded on the secondary side. Each spark plug is connected to one end of the single spark coil. Both spark plugs must be connected to the plug wires and both spark plugs must be grounded to the engine in order for either plug to have spark. Both spark plugs will fire together every time.

    You can find more ignition system test info through my signature links.

    How did you test the battery?

  3. #3

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    Thanks K447,
    I tested the battery by connecting a meter to it, and reading the voltage while cranking. From what I have read on several posts here, I should have 10.6V while cranking. My battery is borderline, even though I just bought it. I then connected a battery charger to it, to boost the cranking volts, and then tried it again. Still no spark. I have read through your links, but I will go back and read some more, I'm sure I have missed something. Thanks for your reply.

    Retested the battery this morning, this time I connected the meter to both battery terminals vs. connecting the ground to the engine stud. Battery maintained 11.5 volts, which is good. Also tested the voltage on the Red/P wire, this tested 11.5V also.

    I'm now following one of your posts "How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Hall Effect sensors on domestic engines".

    Stator coils checked out fine, I will proceed with the rest of the testing hopefully this afternoon.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnycyclone View Post
    Thanks K447,
    I tested the battery by connecting a meter to it, and reading the voltage while cranking. From what I have read on several posts here, I should have 10.6V while cranking.

    My battery is borderline, even though I just bought it.

    I then connected a battery charger to it, to boost the cranking volts, and then tried it again...
    Correction - battery voltage while cranking must be OVER 10.6 volts

    Measure voltage between battery negative post and engine case. While cranking, measured voltage should stay at zero. If you see anything more than maybe 0.1 volts then there is a high resistance connection between battery negative post and engine - remove and clean both ends of battery cable.

  5. #5

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    K447 - measured the voltage on the negative cable, it showed 0 static and 0 while cranking.

    I also downloaded the correct electrical trouble shooting sheet for my model of Polaris. I have been working on testing everything on the sheet and so far everything looks good. So I have also been reading every post with the words "no spark" in them. One of the tests I have been reading about, is to measure the voltage on the brown wire coming out of the CDI. I ran that test and only got .22 volts. Does this mean the CDI could be bad?

    Thanks....Terre

  6. #6

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    The brown wire coming out of the CDI reads .22V while cranking, which is well below what I have read it should be. Is this an indication the CDI might be bad? I'm guessing it's not quite that easy. All the other measurements look good, and I have checked and re-checked the grounds. I'm thinking of buying a known working CDI just to see if this is the problem.

    Thanks..Terre

  7. #7
    If i remember right they had a updated stator and a cdi you had you had to replace to repair this problem. It came as a set. They do not sell the older stators anymore and you had to buy the update.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The 2000 domestic engines should already have the Gen III ignition right from the factory. So no update kit required.

    If you really have over 10.6 volts right at the CDI's Red/Purple wire, and good ground, then the CDI should be putting out spark.

    Spark can be killed by;
    Black/Yellow wire grounded (this is the wire the lanyard grounds to stop the engine)
    Weak battery voltage into CDI Red/Purple wire (this is the over 10.6 volts while cranking thing)
    Bad/resistive grounds anywhere between CDI and battery negative post or engine case
    Poor connections to stator
    Poor connections to ignition coil
    Bad coil grounding
    Failed/damaged/bad stator
    Failed CDI
    Bad ignition coil
    Bad spark plug wire
    One spark plug not connected or not grounded (especially on two cylinder engines)

    Rare cases;
    Bad/dead or internally wet MFD can affect CDI, cause strange symptoms, poor performance

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the response K447. I have gone over this thing at least 3 times, and everything check out. I have read every post on no spark and have done everything that was posted to try.

    I think I'm going to buy a CDI and see what happens. Even if it doesn't fix the problem at least I will know for sure, plus I will have an extra CDI.

    I already checked with John Zigler, and he doesn't have any. Are there any other places I could look, or should I ask the member here?

    Thanks again, you have been a big help!

    Terre

  10. #10

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    Just thought I would let everyone know that the cdi was the problem. I was finally able to buy one, and give it a try, and it worked. It sure is nice to finally hear it running. But, it looks like I'm going to be selling this one. The kids want to go tubing, and in Michigan you need a 3 seater, so this one is going to be sold, and then I will be looking for a 3 seater. Thanks for all the help, you guys are very helpful, and I appreciate it....Terre

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