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  1. #1

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    2002 polaris virage, no spark I have all test measurments.

    First off I must say Ive beend a lurker for some time and I decided to register as I am having problems deciphering test results. Great site by the way.

    Allow me to give some back ground. I bought this new in 2002 and it has been sitting for the past 3 years. 3 years ago a friend rolled it and got it back up right really fast in the right direction. But the MFI took in water and I had to drill a hole in it, place it in a zip lock bag with some dessacant and a little pump to circulate air. I left it in the sun too. Once it dried out I sealed it up. At the end of that season the ski started to spudder some. Then it was winterized till now. I got a brand new batter last week for it also.

    Now on to the test results:

    Battery static: 12.71
    Batter cranking: 11.75
    stator black to ground: 1.0
    stator black to purple: 6.4
    stator yellow to red/purple: 1.3

    stator red, green, grey to black: O.L
    stator red,green to gray: O.L
    stator brown to grey: 130k

    coil tabs to coil tab: .2
    plug cap to plug cap: 8.13k
    cap to ground: O.L
    cap to coil tab: O.L
    16.5" lead end to end: 2114
    22" lead end to end: 2970
    1st secondary post to 2nd secondary post: 2970

    Red purple wire in electrical box that connects to the orange wire that goes to cdi only has 12v when bilge is on. Still no spark while cranking with bilge on. red/purple from CB has 12volts. Brown wire has 9 volts when cranking. To further check I did the 9v battery test and still no spark. All fuses are good, no corrosion on anything. Disconected the black/yellow kill circuit wires and still no spark. Disconnected the gray wire at circuit board still no spark.

    Any ideas?? At first I thought stator but it ohm's out ok I guess. Now Im thinking coil as the secondary connection are high but still not sure after reading they hardly ever go bad. Is there anything in the MFI that could cuase a no spark condition? Im just trying to confirm something before I spend money to not fix the problem. Thanks for help in advanced! Oh the temp was about 88 to 90 when I did the ohms checks except for the coil it was done inside the house. Coil is red podded one with the two sockets for the plug wires PN 4010175.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Carburetor two cylinder engine, I expect.

    "stator black to ground: 1.0 [ohms]"

    That sounds high, should be much closer to zero ohms than 1 ohm

    Bypass both the MFI and the LR-505 Start/Stop module. Details via my signature links.

    When testing for spark both spark plugs must be plugged in and both plugs must be touching the engine metal (or installed).

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Columbus, MS
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    Thanks for your reply. It is the two cylinder carb engine. I have one plug installed the other I have touching the inside of the plug hole so that it is touching the engine and that I can see the electrode.

    I work midnight shift so I'll have to try bypassing those two components. I found the directions for the LR-505 but not the MFI. Or will bypassing the LR-505 bypass the MFI??

    You know also my meter has an offset of 1 ohm so maybe the 1 ohm is closer to 0..Other than that does the other figures look right? Nothing to be a show stopper? Possibly?

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Columbus, MS
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    Well I bypassed MFI through pins 1 and 3. I bypassed LR. I hit the start button...no spark. I hit the bilge while starting...no spark. I checked all exposed wire and all look good. I did a continuity check on the lanyard switch it is good. I tried with lanyard both out and in no spark. I tried the MFI plugged in and LR bypassed..no spark. With everything jumperd the brown wire is putting out 9 volts from cdi. Im lost! Any more ideas? I am running BPR8ES with both plugged in, one installed and the other I hold the bare metal of the cylinder head and they are both brand new. Thanks

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You are working down the list of possibilities. Confirm that the CDI is getting over 10.6 volts right at the Red/Purple and Black CDI wires.

    After that, ohm check the stator and do the Hall Effect sensor tests.

    Also double check that all connections between CDI and stator are indeed good, both inside the electrical box and at the stator cable connector.

    If stator checks out OK, then it is time to try another CDI.

    Note: For your 2002 Virage engine, I think Polaris installed the 4010569 'high start' flywheel, which means the CDI must also be a 'high start' version (or change the flywheel as well).

  6. #6

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    Ok Ill try those. I have already ohmed out the stator above and I just now checked that the black to ground is indeed .1 not 1. Is that 10.6 volts gonna be cranking volts?

  7. #7

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    Okay red purple gets 11.6 during cranking. The only black I see Im guessing is a ground?? I did notice that the coil tabs (black/white) are only getting.36 volts when cranking. Ill have to do the hall check tomorrow. I need a battery.

  8. #8
    casey67's Avatar
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    I'm guessing the CDI is OK, the secondary coil is rather high, but I don't think high enough to cause a problem.

    Next step would be to check the fumction of the trigger coils in the stator:

    With stator wires disconnected.
    Attach a 9v battery to the brown and grey wires.
    One Ohmmeter lead to grey,other to red or green.
    Rotate the engine slowly by hand, the meter should read open until the magnet in the flywheel passes the sensor, then meter should switch to a low resistance ( manual says under 25 ohm )

    Repeat with other trigger wire (red or green )

    Note, there is a magnet located in the plastic "timing Plate' attached to the flywheel,it's possible for that to get damaged.


    OOOPs, I type real slow.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Voltage and meter probe polarity is important for stator Hall Effect testing.

  10. #10

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    Jun 2011
    Location
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    Well I did the hall sensor test. On both the green and the red wire I am getting 106.7 ohms as the magnet passes over the sensor. Now I did the measurement test in the electrical box by disconnecting all the wires to the cdi, however I left the ground hooked up as I don't have an Allen wrench to take it off. Not sure if the ground being connected would skew the results or not. So since I am way over 25ohms would it be safe to say my stator has broken down??

    Also as I took the stator cover off a spring and plunger came out. I assume it goes in the round opening on the right side of the cover while looking at it. However plunger up or plunger down? Im guessing down.

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