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  1. #1

    GP1300R with blown motor...what to do?


    I have an '03 GP1300R with '05 spec pump and Riva stage 2 mods. I just spent $2700 on a custom paint job, pump rebuild, and TPS sensor replacement (came in WAY over estimate...would not have spent that much on it had I been told that up front).

    When I got the ski back from the shop, it nearly sank the first time I rode it. Long story short, a drain from the bilge and a cooling line to the engine were reversed, so it was pumping its own hull full of water. It got water into all 3 cylinders when it nearly sank...sat overnight, and then removed plugs and blew it out the next day. Checked compression (125-116-120...lower than expected with Riva heads, but it was also on a cold engine). Took it out and ran it...ran fine; saw 68.9 on GPS, no supermanning or anything (until the throttle cable came undone...had to limp home so I could hook that back up).

    A week later, I was riding it and had a catastrophic engine failure. I removed the head of the #3 cylinder, and found the following: image for larger version. 

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    I don't know if it's the fault of the shop. I see no corrosion inside the engine (as best as I can tell with limited visibility...obviously can't tell anything about the bearings), or any obvious burn marks. The connecting rod appears intact, as best as I can tell by looking through the gap beside the piston. I kinda expected to see a broken rod, caused by a failed/corroded bearing, but all I can see damaged so far is a demolished piston/cylinder. The piston ring is broken, but who knows if that was the cause or an effect?

    The best I could get the shop owner to agree to is to repair it for dealer cost on parts + a somewhat discounted labor rate...the estimate this time is $695 for a top end, or just under $2500 for installation of a reman engine (actually, that was just with new Riva head hardware...the #3 head is trashed, so it'll be an additional couple hundred bucks for a full set of Riva heads + hardware). That's obviously more than fair (other than I feel like I got overcharged the first time, plus the repair took about 8 months!) if the failure isn't his fault...of course, if I knew that it was his fault, I shouldn't have to pay anything at all.

    Regardless, I really can't see spending that much for the engine replacement just to get back to where I was...that'll be significantly more in repair bills in just a couple of weeks than I paid for the ski. If I could get away with a top-end rebuild, that might be tolerable, but I'm not optimistic about that, and I don't want to pay to get the engine removed and taken apart only to find it isn't salvageable.

    I'm inclined to just throw up my hands and sell it as-is. I don't know how much I could get for an essentially totally overhauled and nicely modified ski, with the exception of it having a blown engine. My other option is to build a conversion ski out of it, but I don't know how much that would at least some of the work is beyond the scope of my abilities, and I definitely won't have the time to mess with it for a good while...(single dad to a 4-year old for the next month and a half, active-duty Marine officer, about to move to another duty station, and just filed some more paperwork to re-open a custody fight with my daughter's mother...I just can't get into doing a motor swap on my own right now).

    Any guidance from you guys who have blown up more skis than I have?

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Taylor, MI 48180
    My experience is telling me that you have damaged cases and that crank is garbage. Sorry for the bad news.

  3. #3
    Oh yeah, like I said, I'm not optimistic that I can get away with a top-end rebuild.

  4. #4
    Mr. Millennium's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    heart of dixie
    From past exp. pull the whole engine check every inch of the engine its not that hard.You may get lucky and not have as much damage as you think.

  5. #5
    Mike xsockguyx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    The entire motor is shot since you didn't attempt to re-start and get all the water out of the engine immediately after it flooded. When 2 strokes motors flood you have a small window to get all the water out and get them re-started with little to no damage.

  6. #6
    Plan b. Sell it. If ur pa area pm me

  7. #7
    ^^ yeah, lesson learned. What would the cause of failure be (due to the flooding), considering that it ran fine immediately after clearing it out?

    ^ in NC. There is a chance that I could have a buddy take it to Pittsburgh for me, though.

  8. #8
    porschemaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    pull the motor and build a single pipe 1390 or 1500. There are tons of deals on the forum right now on 66v parts. complete bottom ends with t&w cranks for $800 , top end sets ect... a 1800cc conversion would be nice but is a lot of work and even more expense. If you play your cards right and look for good deals from good sellers you can probabally put a 1390 together for $2000 and thats using quality parts. A hull with a blown motors only going to bring x amount of $$$s -if you have some mechanical ability you can do this yourself-there are plenty of us on here to help along the way and ill send you a factory manual email free. Think about it before making a rash decision- things arent always as bad as they seem. I wouldnt know what its like to buy a running ski-the more broken the better-lol

  9. #9
    Curious to know what caused that... looks like some severe detonation to me but I'm no gpr expert.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by xsockguyx View Post
    The entire motor is shot since you didn't attempt to re-start and get all the water out of the engine immediately after it flooded. When 2 strokes motors flood you have a small window to get all the water out and get them re-started with little to no damage.
    this lead to the damage, very small window i might add, the hour it occured makes no diff, if it takes all night, then so be it !

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