Thread: Electrical Fuji
12-03-2006, 09:43 PM #1
12-05-2006, 11:01 AM #2
I had some segments going out on my MFD on my 94 SL750. Having been to school on electronics some years back, I pulled the unit and tore into it. First problem is that it was glued up real good so it was a bear to break open. From the top I ran an exacto knife around the inner plate and the outer housing. Then I had to cut away a little of the side housing to expose the seal between the top plate and the outer housing. Then I wedged a screwdriver inbetween the 2 and carefully pryed it up. After numerious attempts I finally was able to pop the top off. The top had everything screwed to it. I removed the screws and took the circut board off. As I suspected, the LCD was joined to the circut board with 2 conductive rubber strips. I removed them making sure I placed them so I could put it together just like it came apart. I could not see any signs of corrousion, but cleaned everything with a stashed away can of TF solvent anyway. Contact cleaner if you will. I cleaned the LCD contacts, the circut board contacts, and both sides of the rubber strips. I then put the LCD, strips and board back together and screwed them down. I then positioned the housing as it would be if it were in the ski and drilled 2 water drain holes in the lowest part of the back of the housing. I threw away the pouch of silica that was in the housing. I then put weatherstrip adheasive(black) on the part pf the housing that was glued to the face plate. I then Stuck the faceplate down into the housing and let it dry. Hooked it up and Whoo-hoowee!!! All segments worked.
12-05-2006, 10:49 PM #3
12-05-2006, 11:00 PM #4
12-05-2006, 11:11 PM #5
Ignition Trouble Shooting
Last edited by ph2ocraft; 12-05-2006 at 11:21 PM.
12-05-2006, 11:13 PM #6
12-05-2006, 11:17 PM #7
Limiting to 4200 RPM
I remember the PRO's had this quite a bit as well as the 750's with the buzzer for overheat, I have a simple testing procedure for it.
First disconnect the tan wire to the CDI and see if this solves the limiting problem, if so, check the temp sensor but more importantly the tan wire and it's routing for crimps, pinches and shorts. If you find no problems with the overheat temp sensor or wiring be sure to check for restrictions in the cooling system. You can of course disable the wire BUT you risk missing the overheat.
Verify the tan wires on the terminal board are NOT grounded. If they are you will need to correct the problem. There should be no ground to the tan wires unless you have an overheat condition present.
If all checks good, replace the CDI and test it all over again.
12-06-2006, 12:30 AM #8
12-06-2006, 12:43 AM #9
Never replace the 1/4 amp fuse with one of a higher rating.
You will cause irreparable damage to the MFD if something goes wrong.
Power surges or spikes are the most common cause for a blown fuse.
The power surges can be caused by loose connections in the electrical box (remove and re-crimp all connectors, I'd also replace the board as it's so inexpensive). Poor ground at the engine plate (scrape off the paint and clean the connector), even corroded or loose battery connections will cause this issue (remove and clean the connections).
Anytime the charging path is interrupted there's a potential for a voltage spike.
I think 14.1 is too much charging output, check the actual value with a "GOOD" meter (Fluke comes to mind) and make sure of the voltage being charged to the battery.
When you split the electrical box, it's also not a bad idea to replace the voltage regulator.
While on the subject of MFD's and LOPr.
The LOPr will only come on when the battery voltage is under 10.9
Remember power fluctuations (usually caused by loose connections) or electrical noise caused by the ignition system may cause the MFD to lose voltage calibration data. These "events" will also show LOPr.
Check and correct the charging system, battery, battery connections, fuse connections, MFD pin connectors, (pay particular attention to power and ground connections at the MFD).
To re-set the MFD
Press and hold the MODE and SET keys until the CAL displays. The CAL display will usually show after 4 seconds
Press and hold the SET key
While continuing to hold the SET key ans within 2 seconds of pressing the SET key, press and hold the MODE key
Don't release either key until the MFD shuts down
After the MFD has shut itself down, press the mode key to turn the MFD on
Depress the MODE key repeatedly until voltage is displayed and verify that the voltage reading has been restored.
Display is stuck on one function/display shows all 8's/buttons don't work
This malfunction can occur when the battery has been disconnected or removed.
It may freeze on any function, or with all 8's the MFD is running its self check during power up.
This will usually happen when there is a power glitch and the micro-processor temporarily malfunctions.
It will usually correct itself when you disconnect the battery for a few minutes, it usually takes 2-3 minutes to re-set the micro-processor.
When connecting the battery negative cable, make sure it is a "clean connection.
Meaning only let the terminal contact the battery once. DON'T repeatedly contact the battery!! Hold pressure on the cable until the bolt is tight.
If you have problems connecting the battery terminals you can disconnect the MFD, install the cables and then plug the MFD back in (my recommendation)
Last edited by K447; 04-17-2011 at 11:17 PM.
12-07-2006, 01:30 AM #10
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